In at the deep end

[nb Innisfree]

I dont intend removing the tiller assembly unless it is damaged ,when it will be cutoff, if the bottom cup needs work then that can be worked on without tiller removal as the tiller will lift sufficiently to allow access, will this work in practice I hope so, tell me now in case Ive missed something.

 

One prob you could have is rudder stock getting bent and jamming in tube? In my first post I suggested you thought about replacing tube with a u shaped section, open at the back as in Black Prince shells, I have always admired that, not the best looking but very practical allowing easy removal of complete assembly and ease of blacking+ no water shooting up the rudder stock

 

Sounds like an exciting project

[aread2]

Tiller tube installed weedhatch cut out and rear deck tacked on, weedhatch looks skewed but is straight must be a trick of the camera and yes the tiller tube is a bit of scaffold tube

I was mighty impressed by the design of our weed hatch:

The access to the hatch is from the counter:

There's a cavitation plate that's held down at the bottom with a large screw but the main feature is that you can leave the weed hatch open and run the engine without flooding the boat.

[soldthehouse]

One prob you could have is rudder stock getting bent and jamming in tube? In my first post I suggested you thought about replacing tube with a u shaped section, open at the back as in Black Prince shells, I have always admired that, not the best looking but very practical allowing easy removal of complete assembly and ease of blacking+ no water shooting up the rudder stock

 

Sounds like an exciting project

Thanks for that I did ask for clarification of the tiller assembly you first suggested but I know how easy it is to lose continuity in these posts, I think I understand now, ie a complete bite in a u shape out of the stern, I have also taken on board the bent tiller bit hadnt thought of that, are you thinking along the lines of a side hit which would flex the skeg, is that a strong possibility, regards, stuart . ps { I have great difficulty pacing myself on the steelwork side of things but I seem to be improving.Its taken me two days to get the fuel feed through the bulkead of the diesel tank to my satisfaction so there is hope}

 

 

I was mighty impressed by the design of our weed hatch:

The access to the hatch is from the counter:

There's a cavitation plate that's held down at the bottom with a large screw but the main feature is that you can leave the weed hatch open and run the engine without flooding the boat.

Spot on thats just the sort of input i,m after as I have no comprehension of the force of the water inside the weedhatch compartment even with a baffle in, is it quite turbulent or is most of the force of the water backwards toward the tiller thanks, stuart

 

 

Hi Stuart, been up at the boat today & taken a few measurements. The distance from the top of my uxter plate to the underside of the rear deck, is 21". This should allow me to make the weedhatch 5" to 6" high.

What I will be doing, is to cant the front plate forward at an angle, to make access more comfortable.

 

Don't forget a baffle plate, to close the hole thro' the uxter plate. Leave enough clearance to prevent any vibration.

 

Cheers...

Hello ther shipmate I was thinkink of contacting you as weve not been in touch for a few days. Ie had a few stops this week the usual , a funeral , hospital appointment etc, hows your progress, ive taken two days to get the fuel feed through the tank bulkhead to my satisfaction, regards stuart.

[NBMike]

That's one of the interesting things about boatbuilding........people end up with the same thing, but go about it using so many various methods. (is that a double thingybob?, not to worry)

 

Just go over how you will make sure the three sections will match up, will you? I'm thinking you will make up two full sized templates?

 

I formed all my own plate on site but I'd never do it this way again. I must just like making work....barmy.

 

I've got a shell on the water and am now playing with engine and gearbox. I can honestly say 'I will never do this again!' Next time I'll buy one. But it has at least been interesting.

Mike

[soldthehouse]

I've got a shell on the water and am now playing with engine and gearbox. I can honestly say 'I will never do this again!' Next time I'll buy one. But it has at least been interesting.

Mike

Did you build the shell yourself

[nb Innisfree]

Thanks for that I did ask for clarification of the tiller assembly you first suggested but I know how easy it is to lose continuity in these posts, I think I understand now, ie a complete bite in a u shape out of the stern, I have also taken on board the bent tiller bit hadnt thought of that, are you thinking along the lines of a side hit which would flex the skeg, is that a strong possibility, regards, stuart . ps { I have great difficulty pacing myself on the steelwork side of things but I seem to be improving.Its taken me two days to get the fuel feed through the bulkead of the diesel tank to my satisfaction so there is hope}

 

Prob little chance of a bend in stock, tho I have heard of it happening when caught on cill, god forbid

 

Just seems a shame not to have belt and braces while you have the chance

 

It's looking good

[soldthehouse]

3 days work making fuel tank internal pipework and getting it through bulkhead to my satisfaction, just want to get to the deck and cants and rubbing strakes around the stern, weedhatch tomorrow

 

[soldthehouse]

Nearing completion of the rear bit just the rubbing strakes to bend a around and weld, and tidy my miscellaneous welding up a bit, then its the bow.

After many stops and starts this week the shape of the counter is coming together not the most technically advanced but the best I can do with a nine inch grinder and little feel for steel, although i,m beginning to enjoy myself

[NB Esk]

Some more nice work there, Stuart. What is the capacity of the diesel tank & is there any provision to drain it?

 

It will be interesting seeing the bows come together...

[soldthehouse]

Some more nice work there, Stuart. What is the capacity of the diesel tank & is there any provision to drain it?

 

It will be interesting seeing the bows come together...

Hello John no provision for tank draining just another potential leak!!. I,m still set on a straight stem as I dont have your patience or skills in fabrication the bow will be very simple unlike your masterpiece, my area of achievement should be the wooden boatmans cabin/engineroom fingers crossed at least there will be no welding to laugh at I worked the diesel tank out at 44galls is that enough I think it was 14inches front to back in the centre 22.5 inches high and 64 inches across the bulkhead have I calculated correctly

Edited September 11, 2009 by soldthehouse

[soldthehouse]

Hello John no provision for tank draining just another potential leak!!. I,m still set on a straight stem as I dont have your patience or skills in fabrication the bow will be very simple unlike your masterpiece, my area of achievement should be the wooden boatmans cabin/engineroom fingers crossed at least there will be no welding to laugh at I worked the diesel tank out at 44galls is that enough I think it was 14inches front to back in the centre 22.5 inches high and 64 inches across the bulkhead have I calculated correctly

 

Finished the stern section today rubbing strakes fitted just needs the remaining uxterplate trimming off, have put it to one side moving on to the bow section now will do the full welds on the rubbing strakes in stages when i get stuck on the bow will post pictures later

[NB Esk]

Hello John no provision for tank draining just another potential leak!!. I,m still set on a straight stem as I dont have your patience or skills in fabrication the bow will be very simple unlike your masterpiece, my area of achievement should be the wooden boatmans cabin/engineroom fingers crossed at least there will be no welding to laugh at I worked the diesel tank out at 44galls is that enough I think it was 14inches front to back in the centre 22.5 inches high and 64 inches across the bulkhead have I calculated correctly

 

I reckon 44gallons will be fine. Wouldn't have a clue how to work it out, came bottom in maths at school. Cheated with mine, filled them with water & measured this, before I welded the tops on.

 

Good luck with the bows, it took me months to do what you've achieved in weeks...

[bargemast]

Finished the stern section today rubbing strakes fitted just needs the remaining uxterplate trimming off, have put it to one side moving on to the bow section now will do the full welds on the rubbing strakes in stages when i get stuck on the bow will post pictures later

 

I've been following your progress and must say that I'm most impressed, go on like this and you'll be in the water (your NB I mean !) before Christmas.

 

Cheerioh,

 

Peter.

[soldthehouse]

I've been following your progress and must say that I'm most impressed, go on like this and you'll be in the water (your NB I mean !) before Christmas.

 

Cheerioh,

 

Peter.

Very kind and appreciated but, and its a big but, it probably isnt as pretty in the flesh as in the photos. My biggest problem with the stern section is that I had all the side plates folded together so that they were uniform in size and shape, even though most will not be used till the final stage, however me being a trusting soul I cut a strip off two of them to graft to the front of the stern section to give a datum to work from and low and behold they are actually different heights and I didnt notice until my enthusiasm had waned after a couple of days and being a novice fabricator I had fully welded them and other adjoining pieces before this became apparent... LESSON LEARNT. I will have to correct it when i fit the superstructure which will be timber and hopefully i can preempt the problems more instinctively. the difference is about 25mm but shouldnot be visible as its on either side. on with the bow today and will post pictures later, progress seems even faster on this bit because i made the frame with the other as a pair and have two lengths of side as leftovers to go straight inplace, I am using a piece of 70x70 x6mm angle as a former for the bow stem and have gone for a little rake so this will test my fabrication skills, I suspect progress will come to a crawl on monday when reality hits home and my calculations are wrong regards Stuart

[bargemast]

Very kind and appreciated but, and its a big but, it probably isnt as pretty in the flesh as in the photos. My biggest problem with the stern section is that I had all the side plates folded together so that they were uniform in size and shape, even though most will not be used till the final stage, however me being a trusting soul I cut a strip off two of them to graft to the front of the stern section to give a datum to work from and low and behold they are actually different heights and I didnt notice until my enthusiasm had waned after a couple of days and being a novice fabricator I had fully welded them and other adjoining pieces before this became apparent... LESSON LEARNT. I will have to correct it when i fit the superstructure which will be timber and hopefully i can preempt the problems more instinctively. the difference is about 25mm but shouldnot be visible as its on either side. on with the bow today and will post pictures later, progress seems even faster on this bit because i made the frame with the other as a pair and have two lengths of side as leftovers to go straight inplace, I am using a piece of 70x70 x6mm angle as a former for the bow stem and have gone for a little rake so this will test my fabrication skills, I suspect progress will come to a crawl on monday when reality hits home and my calculations are wrong regards Stuart

 

LESSONS LEARNT like that, make you waist some valuable time, but now you'll hopefully never make that mistake again and only fully weld everything when you're 200 % sure that everything is the way it should be, keep going and build a boat that you'll be proud of.

 

Regards, Peter.

[soldthehouse]

Stern section completed except for continual welds on rubbing strakes, these will be done as and when time permits. I have decieded to invert the whole section in order to weld the strakes fully on the underside as I think upsidedown welding is beyond me at the moment

And for all the kind souls that have said it looks impressive close scrutiny would reveal peaking of the counter plate at the point where the top strake currently ends and half way along the side as seen

Edited September 12, 2009 by soldthehouse

[soldthehouse]

Baseplate for bow in place with frame two sides and stem post tacked in position

 

 

Dorman 4dsm restored 18yrs ago then abandoned when project failed now decided to install petter engine with exposed flywheel, so the dorman is available if anyone is interested, Tom the terrier will guard it till it goes.

 

[soldthehouse]

Should have written this update yesterday but had to leave in a rush to collect gearbox for boat and other errands and have done over 700 miles in thelast 24 hours. However formed the bow on monday, well first two plates, heres some pictures

[casper ghost]

Hi. Have you thought of setting up a blog on this forum like I have. Seeing your pics brings back memories..

 

It's interesting to see the different ways to build a boat. The hardest part is not giving up.. and welding the strakes upside down is not that difficult, you'll soon get the hang of it after a while.

[soldthehouse]

Hi. Have you thought of setting up a blog on this forum like I have. Seeing your pics brings back memories..

 

It's interesting to see the different ways to build a boat. The hardest part is not giving up.. and welding the strakes upside down is not that difficult, you'll soon get the hang of it after a while.

Hello and thanks for contributing, yes I have thought of a blog is that more acceptable. I am going to take drastic action on the strakes and turn the boat completely over as the sections are still relatively light so that I can weld them more easily I dont have much experience fabricating ive just been around engineers and the like alot in my life and kept my eyes and ears open, but as always its not as easy as it looks.

[NB Esk]

Hi Stuart, pulling plates round.........not the easiest job, but very neat work. Is that a sash cramp, pulling the baseplate up?.

 

What's the gearbox you went for?

[soldthehouse]

Hi Stuart, pulling plates round.........not the easiest job, but very neat work. Is that a sash cramp, pulling the baseplate up?.

 

What's the gearbox you went for?

Hello John yes its a sash cramp i thought of putting some funny description in the post but did it in a rush so didnt. I was actually pulling a small gap up between sideplate and baseplate before tacking. I have made no attempt to raise the front of the baseplate that would have overley taxed my joinery skills how are you getting on with your boat, any recent pics, regards Stuart. oOh the gearbox it was the one on ebay for a ford/fordson very agricultural but only £11.06 so I will go thru it and spend a bob or two on bearings and seals, should be belt and braces just my stamp

[Old Son]

I am soooooooooooo impressed!!!!!! I just would not know where to start and to fabricate without plans, well what can I say. Keep up the fantastic work and keep the pictures comming. This is one of the most interesting threads I've read. Top man!!!

[soldthehouse]

I am soooooooooooo impressed!!!!!! I just would not know where to start and to fabricate without plans, well what can I say. Keep up the fantastic work and keep the pictures comming. This is one of the most interesting threads I've read. Top man!!!

As casper the ghost said, its having the will to keep going, as sometimes when you make a mistake that isnt easily recifiable you have to move on and its always there winking its eye at you, and cutting out with a 9"grinder becomes an art form. I burnt around the rear baseplate with oxy acetaline and it wasnt pretty. every now and again someone like yourself contributes and it spurs me on,Thanks

[RLWP]

Are you leaving the stem joining the baseplate as a "corner"?

 

I'm asking because watching Tawny Owl on the southern parts of the Oxford, that's the bit that rides up the lock "buffers". Because we have a rounded stem she rides up the buffers nicely until the button is on the gate. That sharp corner is therefore a wear point on the hull.

 

Richard