Which 12v Fridge?

[BlueStringPudding]

For the purposes of comparison, I'm not looking at gas or 240v fridges, but am interested in knowing what make and model of 12v fridge you have on your boat?

What are its pros and cons? (eg, size, noise, power consumption etc)

 

Thanks

 

[Lee J]

For the purposes of comparison, I'm not looking at gas or 240v fridges, but am interested in knowing what make and model of 12v fridge you have on your boat?

What are its pros and cons? (eg, size, noise, power consumption etc)

 

Thanks

 

The fridge is a Waeco CR110

 

It's a new build so I've no actually run it yet, but the first pro is it's lovely stainless steel finish, and the second is the little vent switch, that wen selected doesn't allow the door to fully close. It does seem very quiet, but I've not had to live with it so I can't confirm this.

 

Cons: Bloody expensive!

 

Lee

[journeyperson]

For the purposes of comparison, I'm not looking at gas or 240v fridges, but am interested in knowing what make and model of 12v fridge you have on your boat?

What are its pros and cons? (eg, size, noise, power consumption etc)

 

Thanks

 

 

I've got a 15 year old Batts fridge on my boat. Pros: it keeps stuff cool, has a good little freezing compartment and so far it works well. Cons: It might pack up at any moment and I don't think they make them anymore.

[sherbert]

Also got an old Batts fridge that works well all be it a little noisy and I suspect alittle heavy on power

[chris w]

For the purposes of comparison, I'm not looking at gas or 240v fridges, but am interested in knowing what make and model of 12v fridge you have on your boat?

What are its pros and cons? (eg, size, noise, power consumption etc)

 

Thanks

 

Most of the fridges for which members have voted so far come under "Other" which isn't very helpful to you. May I suggest you also add "Fridgemaster" to the list.

 

Chris

[Keeping Up]

Ours is a Shoreline; it works well and it's quiet and efficient.

 

The previous fridge was a Batts, which also worked well but was not as quiet and was very much less efficient. To Journeyperson: no they don't make them any more but second hand ones sell for next to nothing (I know two people who couldn't even give theirs away and just dumped them)

 

The big downside when I changed ours, was that the Shoreline is over half an inch wider than the Batts, so I had do some major work on remodelling the kitchen to get it to fit. Even so, it now hasn't really got enough ventilation around it, and I've recently cut a hole in the floor and fitted a computer fan which will suck cold air out of the bilges and blow it up the back of the fridge.

[Smelly]

I suppose there's a lot to do with the compressor as well, we've got a "Freelander" I think it's called, which is just a domestic fridge with the 240 compreessor missing and a groovy Danfoss 12v one instead.

[journeyperson]

The previous fridge was a Batts, which also worked well but was not as quiet and was very much less efficient. To Journeyperson: no they don't make them any more but second hand ones sell for next to nothing (I know two people who couldn't even give theirs away and just dumped them)

 

Ok thanks, although I will be interested to see what gets the vote here and go for quietness and efficiency when the time comes.

[BlueStringPudding]

And what's so great about a Danfoss compressor as opposed to any other sort of compressor? I keep reading the word Danfoss but it means nowt to me! :lol:

Edited March 11, 2009 by BlueStringPudding

[churchward]

We have a small Waeco on our boat. I think it is a CR50

 

Pros

 

Nice finish

latch for holding door ajar when not in use (ventilation)

reasonably quiet.

Seems quit efficient and well insulated as the compressor only kicks in infrequently.

Power drain is OK but it is only a small unit about half to 2 thirds the size of a std domestic fridge.

 

Cons

Expensive

The most power hungry item on the boat? (then a 240V one probably would be too)

 

We had a shoreline one on a shared boat we use to have and that got replaced once and the second unit wasn't too good either the thermostat seemed to have a mind of it's own! The experience of course may not be representative of the brand as there are many of these units fitted to boats.

[BlueStringPudding]

I'm leaning towards one of Shoreline's cheaper fridges with ice box although it might be a tight fit in the space we have and I want to ensure the fridge has plenty of breathing space.

 

 

Ironically their cheap(er) fridge/freezer is smaller in the dimensions that are a problem for us (depth), but of course it draws an estimated average of 1.4A instead of a mere 0.94 that t'other fridge draws. I don't know that means in terms of how many minutes/hours/weeks of engine running it'll take to top the batteries back up after it's had its fill though.

 

 

Hmmm....

 

Edited to add: you could fit a lot of ice cubes in that freezer and that means a lot of cocktails will be chilled to perfection. mmmm... cock-a-tails...

Edited March 11, 2009 by BlueStringPudding

[davidandheather]

We have a LEC 12v fridge been as good as gold the past 4 year

David

[canalchris]

The fridge is a Waeco CR110

 

It's a new build so I've no actually run it yet, but the first pro is it's lovely stainless steel finish, and the second is the little vent switch, that wen selected doesn't allow the door to fully close. It does seem very quiet, but I've not had to live with it so I can't confirm this.

 

Cons: Bloody expensive!

 

Lee

LEE ive got a weaco cr110, its just over 18 month old.twice since new i have had to glue the door seal back in position cos it falls out and stops the door closing properly. and three days ago the bottom of the plastic door fell apart and the door fell of. it is probably irreparable.and i am awaiting a replacement door price at the momenent. wouldnt buy another.

[chris w]

Ironically their cheap(er) fridge/freezer is smaller in the dimensions that are a problem for us (depth), but of course it draws an estimated average of 1.4A instead of a mere 0.94 that t'other fridge draws. I don't know that means in terms of how many minutes/hours/weeks of engine running it'll take to top the batteries back up after it's had its fill though.

It depends not only on the absolute current draw but also on how often the fridge has to switch on to keep itself at the desired temperature. That depends on the fridge's insulation and the efficiency of the compressor, so a higher current draw doesn't necessarily mean that the fridge will consume more energy overall. It's the AH total that's important. For a 12v fridge that is typically about 40-50AH per day.

 

Chris

[Moley]

And what's so great about a Danfoss compressor as opposed to any other sort of compressor? I keep reading the word Danfoss but it means nowt to me!

 

I think ours is a Lec domestic fridge, and like Smelly says, with a Danfoss conversion (bought from Limekiln).

 

Anyone else who has such an item should tick the "Shoreline" option rather than the "Other", because I believe that's pretty much what a Shoreline is.

 

Danfoss compressors (as fitted in Shoreline) only draw slightly over one amp.

[nb Innisfree]

See earlier thread 'Fridge 240v or 12v' my post is there. Don,t know if Shoreline mod to their base fridge (Lec) improves low voltage cutout on 12v. Definitely improves it on 24v, though some boaters use cutout led on 12v as a sign to recharge batts.

[Gibbo]

See earlier thread 'Fridge 240v or 12v' my post is there. Don,t know if Shoreline mod to their base fridge (Lec) improves low voltage cutout on 12v. Definitely improves it on 24v, though some boaters use cutout led on 12v as a sign to recharge batts.

 

In my experience, on many boats, the cutout LED on 12 volt fridges is better used as a sign to sort the insufficently sized fridge cable out

 

Gibbo

[gbmud]

And what's so great about a Danfoss compressor as opposed to any other sort of compressor? I keep reading the word Danfoss but it means nowt to me! :lol:

 

 

 

Danfoss is a Danish maker of refrigeration equipment. There are not many makers of such plant in 12v and Danfoss stuff is found in many (if not most) 12v compressor driven refrigeration devices.

 

Compressor fridges perform better and draw less power than the '3-way' absorption type fridges. Any fridge running on gas is an absorption type - when running on 12v they use LOADS of power.

 

Chris

[Greybeard]

Got one of the Inlander fridge freezers fitted.

 

Has auto select for either 12 or 24 volt.

 

25.6a per day (not my figures as I've never checked them)

 

Has Danfoss comp fitted as standard.

 

Fairly quiet and does what a fridge should do...............keeps my beer cold.

 

http://www.acornengineer.com/show_cat.php?...1&start=20#

 

GB

[Lesd]

I'm leaning towards one of Shoreline's cheaper fridges with ice box although it might be a tight fit in the space we have and I want to ensure the fridge has plenty of breathing space.

 

 

Ironically their cheap(er) fridge/freezer is smaller in the dimensions that are a problem for us (depth), but of course it draws an estimated average of 1.4A instead of a mere 0.94 that t'other fridge draws. I don't know that means in terms of how many minutes/hours/weeks of engine running it'll take to top the batteries back up after it's had its fill though.

 

 

Hmmm....

 

Edited to add: you could fit a lot of ice cubes in that freezer and that means a lot of cocktails will be chilled to perfection. mmmm... cock-a-tails...

 

 

The top photo looks like shoreline model we have. Its seems good, its quiet works well in the warmer months when we have it switched on (we dont tend to bother switching it on in the winter). If I was buying again Im not sure id bother with the mini freezer compartment though. We buy mostly fresh food so dont really use it and if you leave the boat and isolate your batteries the bloody ice box defrosts all over the floor (I always forget to leave a towl or similar to catch the water !).

I thnk Chris' estimate of 40-50AH each day is about right for ours.

Last summer with the fridge on all of the time it was our biggest battery drain along with the pc, but 2 x 130w panels meant we only ran the engine about once every week or so over the whole summer.

Les

Edited March 12, 2009 by Lesd

[BlueStringPudding]

Got one of the Inlander fridge freezers fitted.

 

Has auto select for either 12 or 24 volt.

 

25.6a per day (not my figures as I've never checked them)

 

Has Danfoss comp fitted as standard.

 

Fairly quiet and does what a fridge should do...............keeps my beer cold.

 

http://www.acornengineer.com/show_cat.php?...1&start=20#

 

GB

 

Thanks for the link greybeard - the Inlander fridges seem to be a better size to fit into the space we have. And I assume their estimation of Amps per day compares favourably with the Shoreline ones of 1.4V - do I just times that by 24hours to get the comparable figure?

 

E.g. Shoreline fridge = 0.94 x 24 = 22.56A per day

Shoreline fridge/freezer = 1.4 x 24 = 33.6A per day

Inlander = 25.6A per day

 

Does that sound right?

 

Slightly heavy-duty damages policy Inlander have, when it comes to getting them delivered though, which makes me uneasy. Suggests their carrier damages a lot of products!

[Greybeard]

Thanks for the link greybeard - the Inlander fridges seem to be a better size to fit into the space we have. And I assume their estimation of Amps per day compares favourably with the Shoreline ones of 1.4V - do I just times that by 24hours to get the comparable figure?

 

E.g. Shoreline fridge = 0.94 x 24 = 22.56A per day

Shoreline fridge/freezer = 1.4 x 24 = 33.6A per day

Inlander = 25.6A per day

 

Does that sound right?

 

Slightly heavy-duty damages policy Inlander have, when it comes to getting them delivered though, which makes me uneasy. Suggests their carrier damages a lot of products!

 

I wouldn't dare answer an electrical question

 

Don't know about the carrier. Had crew in area so got it collected.

 

You could try these as they're a bit closer to you http://www.12v-fridges.com/contact_us.php

 

I don't know them at all though.

 

Mike

[alan_fincher]

BSP,

 

I know modern 12 volt fridges are improving, but total daily demands ranging from the low twenties to low thirties, (Amp hours), sound too low to me, versus what people think they measure in practice.

 

I don't know, but suspect these are manufacturers figures in ideal conditions, where it's well ventilated, low ambient temperature, well packed, and the door never opened.

 

Stuffed into a little cubby hole on a sweltering hot boat, and actually used, with the door being opened, and warm things being place in to chill, I suspect most will use significantly more than any of these numbers.

 

What fridge do you currently have, and have you been able to estimate what it uses, please ?

 

Alan

[BlueStringPudding]

What fridge do you currently have, and have you been able to estimate what it uses, please ?

 

Alan

 

 

Hi Alan,

 

Our current fridge is one of the most energy efficient ones you can get. It's a picnic coolbox with no icepack in it (acquired free from Freecycle) on the bow of the boat. The only energy it requires is me taking the lid off!

In the winter all food freezes (milkcicle for your tea anyone?) and in the summer it doesn't really work at all (cottage cheese for your tea anyone?).

 

We've gone nearly two years without a fridge but we really want one now. Depending on where we're moored we can't always buy fresh food every day. Plus all the food that currently fills up the work surfaces can go in there - not only will they last longer but it's also good shelving!

 

In the winter we'll probably go back to the simple life of using a box on the bow, though. Spring and summer I want cold beer and ice for my cocktails. Oh, and maybe some food.

Edited March 12, 2009 by BlueStringPudding

[Daftmare]

We too have a Batts 12v fridge with a little freezer compartment at the top.

 

Its over 12 years old now, but still going strong (touch wood).

 

Jo