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mooring rope material


CRAGGY

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hi,can i have some advise on the best material for mooring ropes and how long they should be,craggy

 

 

Hi There

 

IMHO

Centre Rope - 12/14mm Dyneema - 5Mtrs

 

Mooring Rope - 10/12mm Braided polypropylene - 3mtrs

 

But you will get some more complicated suggestions, some boaters expect a tsunnami on daily basis

 

Alex

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Hi There

 

IMHO

Center Rope - 12/14mm Dyneema - 5Mtrs

 

Mooring Rope - 10/12mm Braided polypropylene - 3mtrs

 

But you will get some more complicated suggestions, some boaters expect a tsunnami on daily basis

 

Alex

It also depends where you intend to do your boating, if its on the Thames with the large locks requiring you to use ropes both fore and aft then they will need to be longer than 3 Mts.

 

On our boat, 57ft the center rope is made so if it falls in the water the end is just short of the prop, so about 25 feet. the ones on both bow and stern are very similar in length. When we moor I like to take the rope back to the boat to secure it, 3 mt would make that a bit tight unless you run the ropes at right angles to the boat, I like to run them as far forward and back as possible.

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Hi There

 

IMHO

Centre Rope - 12/14mm Dyneema - 5Mtrs

 

Mooring Rope - 10/12mm Braided polypropylene - 3mtrs

 

But you will get some more complicated suggestions, some boaters expect a tsunnami on daily basis

 

Alex

No tsunamis but I'd go thicker than 10/12mm purely for comfort on the hands.

 

Pulling a boat in, with 10mm rope is no fun, whatever the tide height.

 

I use synthemp, btw.

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Simple rule of thumb for lrngth.

Take the average length suggested by others and double it. Extra length can be coiled when not needed and used quickly when it is.

 

As Carl says I'd never drop below 14mm for mooring ropes simply because I dislike rope weals on my hands. and for preference use braid (for the same reason.

 

Beware cheap polyprop as it can ve affected by sunlight. Be aware that nylon stretches then contracts quite significantly.

As for the rest see which you like best.

 

Oh synthhemp looks pretty damned traditional and is easy on the hands and to splice/knot but used to carry a fair price hike for that reason. (No idea if it still does.......... Carl?)

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In Gloucester lock you need enough to go up to a lockside bollard and back, both ends.

I like the length to be a bit over half the boat length.

Not any more you don't. They've fitted cables up and down the sides, you only need about 3 feet of rope now.

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This is going to sound excessive perhaps but here is what I have.

 

X2 centre ropes 1=10m X12mm 1=15m X12mm The longer can be useful in deep locks and other circumstances.

 

Fore and aft mooring ropes are 10m X12mm.

 

On board I have two spare 10m X14mm ropes as well to use as spring lines and other uses.

 

I understand what people say about using 14mm or above but I don't find this an issue with 12mm perhaps I have smaller hands.

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Oh synthhemp looks pretty damned traditional and is easy on the hands and to splice/knot but used to carry a fair price hike for that reason. (No idea if it still does.......... Carl?)

I've never really compared prices.

 

Synthemp is a great rope, looks the part, performs well and, unlike the real thing, doesn't rot.

 

It's supplied by my favourite fenderman (Tradline) and I've never fainted at his prices so I haven't been anywhere else.

 

His latest catalogue isn't downloading, from his website, atm, though. Hopefully this is just being updated.

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Simple rule of thumb for lrngth.

Take the average length suggested by others and double it. Extra length can be coiled when not needed and used quickly when it is.

 

As Carl says I'd never drop below 14mm for mooring ropes simply because I dislike rope weals on my hands. and for preference use braid (for the same reason.

 

Beware cheap polyprop as it can ve affected by sunlight. Be aware that nylon stretches then contracts quite significantly.

As for the rest see which you like best.

 

Oh synthhemp looks pretty damned traditional and is easy on the hands and to splice/knot but used to carry a fair price hike for that reason. (No idea if it still does.......... Carl?)

 

Hear Him!!

 

nothing worse thab getting splinters off a rope which also deposits nasty flakes on the deck which clogs drain holes.

 

For a decent hemp 3 ply you can still have it made at the Historic Dockyard in Chatham at the ropery...and see it being made....(no smoking)...ive got 2 reels of the stuff waiting for me to get off my chuff and start turning into fenders

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For a decent hemp 3 ply you can still have it made at the Historic Dockyard in Chatham at the ropery...and see it being made....(no smoking)...ive got 2 reels of the stuff waiting for me to get off my chuff and start turning into fenders

They also have a brilliant (and very cheap) "odds and ends" bin.

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Hear Him!!

 

nothing worse thab getting splinters off a rope which also deposits nasty flakes on the deck which clogs drain holes.

 

For a decent hemp 3 ply you can still have it made at the Historic Dockyard in Chatham at the ropery...and see it being made....(no smoking)...ive got 2 reels of the stuff waiting for me to get off my chuff and start turning into fenders

 

 

 

Edited to add....my mooring lines are old and stay at the mooring and are just the required length to keep us in the side.....we than have cruising ropes which are hemp and 40' in length with a bowline at the boat end (waiting to be spliced into an eye) and loose for the shore which also gives enough length to double up as a fore and aft spring.

 

40' may seem excessive but theres nowt worse than trying to throw a short rope......length matters.....oh yes and girth :lol:

 

They also have a brilliant (and very cheap) "odds and ends" bin.

 

 

 

 

Oh the shame///thats where my 2 rolls came from :lol:

 

Pitty the flag loft is no more.....Emblems Ensign was one of the last to be stitched by hand in that alleged haunted loft

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