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Traditional Boatmans Cabin


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Hello All :wub:

I am hoping to build a Boatmans Cabin in my boat. I have been able to get the lay out plans and dimensions, but could do with some suggestions as to- what type of wood to use, weather it is best to build individual units, take them apart ( if nessesary) and re assemble them, or to build it in situ? and any other advice anyone has to offer.

Also any reccomendations for Door Lining Timber?

Gary

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Hello All :wub:

I am hoping to build a Boatmans Cabin in my boat. I have been able to get the lay out plans and dimensions, but could do with some suggestions as to- what type of wood to use, weather it is best to build individual units, take them apart ( if nessesary) and re assemble them, or to build it in situ? and any other advice anyone has to offer.

Also any reccomendations for Door Lining Timber?

Gary

Traditionally the back cabin was deal (hence the scumbling, to mimic more expensive oak).

 

The joinery is basic, faked to look better quality with trim (just like a modern fit-out) and was built in-situ.

 

Edited to say: I'd use ply to line steel doors.

Edited by carlt
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Hello All :wub:

I am hoping to build a Boatmans Cabin in my boat. I have been able to get the lay out plans and dimensions, but could do with some suggestions as to- what type of wood to use, weather it is best to build individual units, take them apart ( if nessesary) and re assemble them, or to build it in situ? and any other advice anyone has to offer.

Also any reccomendations for Door Lining Timber?

Gary

 

I would have thought that with so many individually sized pieces you'd have to make and fit them on site. There are no individual units, everything is the support for something else.

 

Cheap pine is traditional hence scumbling. My back cabin has a fair amount of ply in it.

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Hello All :wub:

I am hoping to build a Boatmans Cabin in my boat. I have been able to get the lay out plans and dimensions, but could do with some suggestions as to- what type of wood to use, weather it is best to build individual units, take them apart ( if nessesary) and re assemble them, or to build it in situ? and any other advice anyone has to offer.

Also any reccomendations for Door Lining Timber?

Gary

 

I've done two now using Idigbo for the main frame work, the doors are Idigbo frame and T&G floor boards for the panels then beading. It looks effective and it doesn't move summer to winter.

 

Andrew

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Thanks for the advice :wub:

I was thinking of cheating as i have a friend who is a cabinet maker :P eg. 4ftx2ftx6ft unit for bed ole / 4ftx2ftx6ft unit for drawer cupboard / 8ftx2ftx2ft double drawer/bed base for starboard side all assembled in workshop then flat packed and assembled and trimmed in the boat. Worth a go or not?

Gary

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Thanks for the advice :wub:

I was thinking of cheating as i have a friend who is a cabinet maker :P eg. 4ftx2ftx6ft unit for bed ole / 4ftx2ftx6ft unit for drawer cupboard / 8ftx2ftx2ft double drawer/bed base for starboard side all assembled in workshop then flat packed and assembled and trimmed in the boat. Worth a go or not?

Gary

 

I'd be inclined to build it in place in the traditional way and as close as possible to trad dimensions and proportions.

I think if you don't it will never be quite right and will always niggle you.

 

It has potential to be the most enjoyable part of the fit out as the joinery can be a bit rougher and you can correct and scumble over mistakes that you can't in the posh end of the boat.

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I'd be inclined to build it in place in the traditional way and as close as possible to trad dimensions and proportions.

I think if you don't it will never be quite right and will always niggle you.

 

It has potential to be the most enjoyable part of the fit out as the joinery can be a bit rougher and you can correct and scumble over mistakes that you can't in the posh end of the boat.

Absolutely. All the professionals I have worked with build a cabin in situ.I can`t imagine it would look right if it was prefabricated.

Cheers

Phil

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Absolutely. All the professionals I have worked with build a cabin in situ.I can`t imagine it would look right if it was prefabricated.

Cheers

Phil

 

Circumstances have made fitting boats on any long term unviable, but when it's "in the blood" the thoughts remain, so this concept started to concern me.

 

It so helps to be in situ for eyeing up all the lines dimensions and optical illusions, and of course trouble shooting any quirks or eccentricities that are so part of the individualism of narrowboats. But... storing a detailed survey in 3D computer grapics could cost the same as to and fro-ing, provide an adequate resource for the builder, and annother eccentricity in the captains log!

 

But I admit I hav'nt tried it yet... Although I seem to have mutated into selling graphics(but it's not half as satisfying as building stuff!).

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Circumstances have made fitting boats on any long term unviable, but when it's "in the blood" the thoughts remain, so this concept started to concern me.

 

It so helps to be in situ for eyeing up all the lines dimensions and optical illusions, and of course trouble shooting any quirks or eccentricities that are so part of the individualism of narrowboats. But... storing a detailed survey in 3D computer grapics could cost the same as to and fro-ing, provide an adequate resource for the builder, and annother eccentricity in the captains log!

 

But I admit I hav'nt tried it yet... Although I seem to have mutated into selling graphics(but it's not half as satisfying as building stuff!).

 

Have a look at "Dove's" gallery.

There are very some good pictures of building one into NB Dove.

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  • 1 month later...
Have a look at "Dove's" gallery.

There are very some good pictures of building one into NB Dove.

I got a diagram from the National Waterwys Museum of a Josher backcabin, it gives dimensions and also indications of what type of wood to use. It cost me a fiver but that was some time ago. Of course depending on how much space you have you can always ask for different type of boat.

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My brother obtained some very old original plans for a baotmans cabin, he has almost finished it and it does look stunning. He used a Cad design programme to copy the design so it fitted exactly proportionately to the size of his cabin and was able to make many of the componants away from the boat using the printouts the cad programme produce, the cad programme is so good that everything fits mm perfect, he intends to do it completely traditional with all ths scumbling etc etc, it was all constructed from pine and good quality plywood. If you pm me with an e-mail, I can mention it to him, and he'll probably be willing to help with some info.

Edited by Julynian
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Hello All :huh:

I am hoping to build a Boatmans Cabin in my boat. I have been able to get the lay out plans and dimensions, but could do with some suggestions as to- what type of wood to use, weather it is best to build individual units, take them apart ( if nessesary) and re assemble them, or to build it in situ? and any other advice anyone has to offer.

Also any reccomendations for Door Lining Timber?

Gary

Just a point - and probably a step too far anyway - remember that the interior proportions of an original cabin were dictated by legislation. It wasn`t the "furniture" that was measured though, it was the air space.

Cheers

Phil

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Just a point - and probably a step too far anyway - remember that the interior proportions of an original cabin were dictated by legislation. It wasn`t the "furniture" that was measured though, it was the air space.

Cheers

Phil

 

do you have any information about what preceded the ubiquitous 'current' layout?

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  • 4 years later...

Hi all,

 

I was reading this post and was wondering where you got the plans from because i would love some, My partner has been rebiulding his boat from scratch and he would love a traditional boatmans cabin but we cant seem to get any plans. Please help :-)

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They are also available from the Waterways Archive at a much more reasonable price

 

 

This information is all good thanks, im just getting so excited now at the prospect off being able to carry this through to the end. any help and friends would be truly wonderful

 

Would the waterways archive be a net job or a visit job :-)

 

I've done two now using Idigbo for the main frame work, the doors are Idigbo frame and T&G floor boards for the panels then beading. It looks effective and it doesn't move summer to winter.

 

Andrew

 

 

Sounds really nice, We are trying to do something along those lines so any advice would b great :-)

 

 

 

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I'd be inclined to build it in place in the traditional way and as close as possible to trad dimensions and proportions.

I think if you don't it will never be quite right and will always niggle you.

 

It has potential to be the most enjoyable part of the fit out as the joinery can be a bit rougher and you can correct and scumble over mistakes that you can't in the posh end of the boat.

I did all mine in situ in ply. That way I was sure that the bed flap would land on the ledge of the opposite bench.

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I did all mine in situ in ply. That way I was sure that the bed flap would land on the ledge of the opposite bench.

 

How did u draw up the plans to start with though, we go to rallies but i dont think people would appreciate us going onboard and waving a tape measure around lol, Can u buy plans or is there programmes for it

 

They are also available from the Waterways Archive at a much more reasonable price

 

Dont suppose u know where about on their web page :-)

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Hi

 

If you're going to use plywood, I suggest that 18mm Birch faced, tho' dearer than WBP Far Eastern stuff, will save you much time when sanding prior to painting. Resolute's cabin was a mix of both and it took ages, plus much tedious graft, to fill and sand the coarser grain of the Far Eastern stuff. Several of the professional fitters I work with use Birch and comment that priming and undercoating is a doddle on such fine grained timber. Having done mine from bare timber, I swore I'd never do another!!

 

Good luck. You're welcome to have a look at the handiwork if it helps. All of the fitters I know build in situ, by the way, tho' naturally drawers etc are workshop based jobs. PM me if I can help.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

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have a medical oxygen cylinder handy when you enquire as to the price of Birch faced ply !

 

Iv'e LIVED in an original back cabin, and the best thing you can do is put the cutlery drawer inside the table cupboard under the shelf, that way no crumbs and dust falls into your drawer. second, have the back step unfixed and slide into place, then you can stow it away when your moored up, and actually be able to get in and out without being Houdini. And don't put a domed bullseye in the roof they are just plain fire starters. Oh, and you NEED four to six inches of space between the range firebox end and any woodwork, which should't be wood it should be fireproof board, including under it as well.

 

If you used high quality timber to do a back cabin then covered it in scumble, what would be the point ? Scumble is made for disguising plain wood.

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