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24v webasto - eberspacher


fudd

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Looking for a central heating boiler for my newbuild narrowboat. Can’t seem to make my mind up. My system is 24v. Boat is 65’. I’ve been looking at the webasto evo kit but can’t find a 24v model. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

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9 minutes ago, fudd said:

Looking for a central heating boiler for my newbuild narrowboat. Can’t seem to make my mind up. My system is 24v. Boat is 65’. I’ve been looking at the webasto evo kit but can’t find a 24v model. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

 

Look at a company that specialises in water heaters for commercial vehicles such as Eberspacher.

 

Not suggesting you buy this one but it was the 1st hit on google

 

Eberspacher D10W 24V Water Heater | eBay

 

Or the Eberspacher website may help :

 

Eberspacher Marine Heater Kits | Eberspacher Direct

 

Eberspacher Hydronic MD8W Marine Kit 24v | Eberspacher Direct

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Be careful buying a 24v Webby or Ebber, it will likely be a model for a truck and the cut off battery voltage will be higher than a marine one and wrong for use on a boat.

It would plague you with premature shut downs as the battery voltage falls.

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2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Be careful buying a 24v Webby or Ebber, it will likely be a model for a truck and the cut off battery voltage will be higher than a marine one and wrong for use on a boat.

It would plague you with premature shut downs as the battery voltage falls.

 

Even with LFP batteries?

 

Do you know what the actual cut-off voltage is, on the truck versions please? 

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2 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

Even with LFP batteries?

 

Do you know what the actual cut-off voltage is, on the truck versions please? 

No, but on the 12v ones the truck one shuts down at 11.8v from memory whereas the marine one is 11.5 I think. It is reprogrammable if you have the cable.

  • Greenie 1
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32 minutes ago, fudd said:

I’ve got 560 ah lifepo4 batteries if it makes any difference. 

 

I think it makes a LOT of difference, as your domestic supply only drops below 12.0/24.0 volts when the LFPs are totally empty, so an automotive one would prolly work fine! 

 

 

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3 hours ago, MtB said:

 

I think it makes a LOT of difference, as your domestic supply only drops below 12.0/24.0 volts when the LFPs are totally empty, so an automotive one would prolly work fine! 

 

 

Lowest SoC I've ever been down to with my LFPs was 16%, at which point they were at 52.4V which would be 13.1V/26.2V, so I agree...

 

 

SoC.jpg

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5 minutes ago, fudd said:

Neither of which is appropriate for my boat. Thanks anyway. 

 

I wonder why ?

You wanted a 24v water heater and you could not find a 24v Webasto - you have been shown 24v Marine water heaters from both Webasto & Eberspacher.

Do you have some special requirements - maybe someone can suggest alternatives if you care to explain what your needs are.

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1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I wonder why ?

You wanted a 24v water heater and you could not find a 24v Webasto - you have been shown 24v Marine water heaters from both Webasto & Eberspacher.

Do you have some special requirements - maybe someone can suggest alternatives if you care to explain what your needs are.

I’ve been told that I shouldn’t get one that is too powerful for my use. Maybe on a wide beam a 9-10kw heater would be ok. I know Old Son said that his was ok but I’d rather not take the risk. I did state that it’s a new build narrowboat in my post. 

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2 minutes ago, fudd said:

I’ve been told that I shouldn’t get one that is too powerful for my use. Maybe on a wide beam a 9-10kw heater would be ok. I know Old Son said that his was ok but I’d rather not take the risk. I did state that it’s a new build narrowboat in my post. 

Aren't the 5kW ones available in 24V?

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3 minutes ago, fudd said:

I’ve been told that I shouldn’t get one that is too powerful for my use. Maybe on a wide beam a 9-10kw heater would be ok. I know Old Son said that his was ok but I’d rather not take the risk. I did state that it’s a new build narrowboat in my post. 

 

I have an 8kw on my  GRP cruiser 36' x 14' which is probably similar volume to your 60' NB (I have a long tapering pointy end). As I have said previously it goes on when we go on the boat and is switched off when we leave 3-4-5-6 months later.

It runs on a thermostat.

 

Your boat your choice.

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10 minutes ago, fudd said:

I couldn’t find them. 

I’m waiting for a response from Butler Tecnics

You could also consider a Bubble pressure-jet diesel boiler which is pretty much a miniaturised oil CH system built from standard components, and is designed to cycle on and off -- which it needs to do since it's rated at over 10kW.

 

I've got one and am very happy with it in the short time I've used it. IIRC another poster said he'd had one for many years and had no issues with it at all.

 

The downside is that it uses quite a bit of electrical power when running (a couple of hundred watts?), but then it only does this in relatively short bursts. Might still be an issue on a less electric-heavy boat though... 😉

Edited by IanD
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3 minutes ago, MrFish said:

Why not fit a 24v to 12v converter such as the Victron Orion and then use a standard 12v heater?

 

Because I can get a 24v version. 

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15 minutes ago, Martin Nicholas said:

The spec sheet for my Thermo 90 diesel says "12V or 24V".

I think that means it’s available in 12 or 24v. A thermo 90 is too powerful for my usage. 

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On 18/02/2024 at 15:42, fudd said:

I’ve been told that I shouldn’t get one that is too powerful for my use. Maybe on a wide beam a 9-10kw heater would be ok. I know Old Son said that his was ok but I’d rather not take the risk. I did state that it’s a new build narrowboat in my post. 

 

I think you're right to be cautious about using an oversized heater. Maybe the issues I had 15 years ago with my 10kW eberspacher running on a light cycle and coking up have been solved, but 10kW equates to a lot of radiators so I still can't see the point of installing a big boiler that is never going to work hard apart from the first half an hour or so. I still think the basic rule of thumb to roughly match the radiator output to the heater output applies - minus a bit for the pipework.

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