MrFish

I have done the exact same thing. Small cable is fine. If you are running it into a cerbo you can just calibrate the empty and full ohms readings to take into account the higher resistance of a thin cable.

The panel position is key. In an ideal world it would be angled about 30 to 45 degrees and facing the sun at midday. Shading is also the other thing to look out for. The effect will be determined by how many if the panels are in series. Panels in parralel reduce the problems of shading but increase the size of cabling and MPPT.

County Elec do some very good deals on panels. Cheaper than city plumbing. Such as these Perlight 425w for £109 Inc https://www.countyelec.co.uk/perlight-delta-425w-monocrystalline-perc-solar-module-all-black

You could go for semi flexible panels going length ways down each side of the vents.

What about the Mikuni Hydro 5. It cones in a 24v version and is 5kw

Why not fit a 24v to 12v converter such as the Victron Orion and then use a standard 12v heater?

Your best bet is to visit the marina and have an honest chat with the marina manager and speak to some of the residents. From my experience of one of the ABC marinas I am currently located at there are quite a few unofficial permanent residents yhat the marina know about and turn a blind eye to.

Sadly I already have by batteries otherwise I would have bought a pair of these and put them in parallel. They seem to have Victron compatability too.

This is the battery that has peeked my Interest. https://www.fogstar.co.uk/products/fogstar-energy-15-5kwh-48v-battery?variant=41546193174587&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAgeeqBhBAEiwAoDDhn-A2VbUpjzciyhEbAik9omnMPJ2-upk7HnugzJfIS35pAB0qtqvmWhoClDEQAvD_BwE&fbclid=IwAR0beROroJ_6Ti7p4KSh9oPtnQiiO6uprLchsJarbA02dbHumnBEiqento4

I am pretty sure I read on the Fogstar Facebook page that the SoC takes a few cycles to start learning the true SoC. I have only just fitted my 560ah batteries so too early for me to tell with mine yet. They are connected at 4 in series plugged into a Victron multiplus II 48/8000 with Cerbo GX and 712 battery monitor

Given that the bilge is below water level it should be cooler than the rest of the boat so would it be beneficial to use a fan to circulate air from the bilge?

Has anyone used CountyElec for solar panels? I was about to order from Bimble but have noticed that they are cheaper https://www.bimblesolar.com/solar/large-panels/295w-perlite-54cell-small https://www.countyelec.co.uk/295w-perlight-delta-mono-perc-triple-black-54-cell I know I need to add pallet delivery cost but I think both of them are charging around the £200 mark for delivery.

Totally agree. I am ordering the 295w perlight from them. Much better cost per watt and only slightly bigger dimensions.

Which model of Webasto? I am not sure if any of the Webasto units have the ability to wind down output unlike the newer Eberspacher

might be worth trying putting a shallow tray of cat litter underneath during winter layup.

A lot of the long lead items have already been ordered some time back such as the Beta 43, Chili Penguin stove, windows etc.

After over a year of planning and research. Finally started the new build. It will be a 60ft cruiser with reverse layout. Hull by Tim Tyler with Lymm Narrowboats getting it to sail away with some extra bits done for me such as the eberspacher and calorifier.

Definitely a sender. The slider is the giveaway. Just need to check if it is a European or American unit as they have different ohms range.

I see Victron have put on their website a nice MPPT calculator. Not sure how long it has been there but t says new. Just put in the panel config i am looking at with the specific details for the panels i will be using. https://mppt.victronenergy.com#djM7ZXlKc1lYUWlPalV5TGpNMU1EYzRORGtzSW14dVp5STZOUzR5TmpRM01ERTFPVGs1T1RrNU5qY3NJbTVoYldVaU9pSkJiRzFsY21Vc0lFNWxkR2hsY214aGJtUnpJbjA9O2V5Sm1aV0YwZFhKbGN5STZXeUoyYVdOMGNtOXVRMjl1Ym1WamRDSmRMQ0owWlhKdGFXNWhiQ0k2ZEhKMVpTd2lZV3hzYjNkUGRtVnljMmw2WldRaU9tWmhiSE5sZlE9PTtjdXN0b20sMywzLDU0LC0xMCw3MCw0OCw5LjU0LDAuMDQsMTAuMDgsMjk1LDMwLjkzLC0wLjM1LDM3LjE4LDEwLDY=

You can buy guages to utilise the float level sensor. Such as https://wema.co.uk/products/water-level-gauge

Used the exact same technique in building for years

By any chance do you have a Cerbo GX fitted? If you do then you can connect the resistive gauge to the Cerbo to get a tank level display.

I know I am fairly new to these forums. However I do seem to find s lot of threads that go off at huge tangents and almost completely lose sight of the original posters question. There also a lot of threads that develop into a brawl between different members. These do not do this forum much in the way of favours, resulting in people wishing they had never bothered to ask a question and others being offended. I would like to think we are all here to either share our knowledge or to increase it. This means providing factual knowledge and sharing of experience. So when a thread starts to go way of tangent and cannot be steered back to the OP question it would be a good idea to lock the thread and encourage the starting of a new thread to cover where the thread was steering towards.