Coolant leaking

[njdo]

Hi all.

Fitting out a boat for the first time (experienced in kitchen and bathroom fitting!)

 

But discovered an engine problem on our maiden voyage. Overheating, blown fuses. 

 

Cause or symptom.. after replacing the sealant cap I have coolant leaking between the coolant tank and what looks like an exhaust.

 

Thinking I maybe need to unbolt the 'corregated' pipe from the tank and apply some kind of resin seal before bolting back on?

 

Or way off the mark?

 

 

 

Edited January 4 by njdo
Uploading images

[ditchcrawler]

3 minutes ago, njdo said:

Hi all.

Fitting out a boat for the first time (experienced in kitchen and bathroom fitting!)

 

But discovered an engine problem on our maiden voyage. Overheating, blown fuses. 

 

Cause or symptom.. after replacing the sealant cap I have coolant leaking between the coolant tank and what looks like an exhaust.

 

Thinking I maybe need to unbolt the 'corregated' pipe from the tank and apply some kind of resin seal before bolting back on?

 

Or way off the mark?

 

 

 

How about a few clues like make and model of engine  and maybe a photo of where the problem is

[njdo]

Sry was struggling to upload.

 

It's a beta marine

[njdo]

Wasn't expecting such a quick reply.. thanks so much

I'll upload a video link as soon as I can

[Steve56]

10 hours ago, njdo said:

Hi all.

Fitting out a boat for the first time (experienced in kitchen and bathroom fitting!)

 

But discovered an engine problem on our maiden voyage. Overheating, blown fuses. 

 

Cause or symptom.. after replacing the sealant cap I have coolant leaking between the coolant tank and what looks like an exhaust.

 

Thinking I maybe need to unbolt the 'corregated' pipe from the tank and apply some kind of resin seal before bolting back on?

 

Or way off the mark?

 

 

 

Pointless sealing it as it will only mask the problem. There should not be coolant at this point. Possibly an internal leak in the tank, head gasket failure. Maybe external water running back down the exhaust. As a start maybe remove the exhaust and see which way the water is coming. 

[Tony Brooks]

If water is leaking from the rectangular exhaust joint and not the round blanking plug above it, then it has to be an internal fault, as above. However, if water is leaking from there, then why is there no mention of an exhaust blow from the same place?

 

Is this water trickling back from overfilling the system (a common new boater practice).

 

I note the exhaust runs upwards away from the manifold and is uninsulated, so do not discount condensation in the exhaust running down, or even a low exhaust outlet allowing canal water into the exhaust. Water where the OP says it is, is very bad for the engine.

[Tony Brooks]

Reported for merging in original post.

 

njdo, your reply should go in the original post, otherwise it makes no sense.

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

Topics merged.

Jen (one of the forum moderators)

[MtB]

14 hours ago, njdo said:

after replacing the sealant cap I have coolant leaking between the coolant tank and what looks like an exhaust.

 

Much clarification needed here please! Did you:

 

1) Always have the cap and forgot to put it on briefly?

2) Found it in a cupboard somewhere and put it on without considering why it was off in the first place?

3) Never had a coolant cap so went out and bought one? 

4) Identified a fault with the existing coolant cap leading to you deciding to replace it? 

 

I'm wondering if it was 2 or 3 and putting a cap on has revealed why it was not on in the first place.

 

 

[njdo]

7 hours ago, Steve56 said:

Pointless sealing it as it will only mask the problem. There should not be coolant at this point. Possibly an internal leak in the tank, head gasket failure. Maybe external water running back down the exhaust. As a start maybe remove the exhaust and see which way the water is coming. 

 

Thanks.. that helps me progress

 

I took off the heat wrap to investigate, some rust on the exhaust but no sign of holes.

Cap was replaced for new as the old one wasn't sealing correctly. Again not sure if this was why the engine cut out/overheated or because of it.

 

There were plastic bags caught on the propellor which put strain on the engine.. pulled over as soon as we realised but obv too late. Steam coming from engine, coolant tank dry. Everything red hot. Fuse to starter motor blown.

 

Replaced fuse and cap, filled up coolant, started engine.. started but spotted the wet!

 

 

I'll try and get a video to see exactly where 'water' is coming from.

 

Thanks for the comments.. apologies for the lack of detail.. I'm in IT and issues raised with 'its broken' are an annoyance, similarly didn't want to write an essay.

 

But thanks.. I know what to check next and praying it's not gasket! 

 

 

 

[MtB]

3 hours ago, njdo said:

Cap was replaced for new as the old one wasn't sealing correctly.

 

This is probably why the fault surfaced now then.

 

 

 

[Tracy D'arth]

38 minutes ago, MtB said:

 

This is probably why the fault surfaced now then.

 

 

 

Possible overfilling and not allowing space for expansion?

[Tony Brooks]

12 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Possible overfilling and not allowing space for expansion?

 

Agreed, said that 11 hours ago.

[Tracy D'arth]

22 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Agreed, said that 11 hours ago.

Sorry, not concentrating well.

[Tony Brooks]

2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Sorry, not concentrating well.

 

Not getting at you, more trying to emphasise the possibility for the OP.

[njdo]

Thanks for everyone's input. I think it was overfilled.. sorry it just another noob known issue!

 

It is only filled to around a fingernail, an inch and half from the top maybe.. but as soon as it heated up and pressure built, you are right it was travelling from the cap.

 

Can't see any drain valve but will hunt it down or stick the wet vac in there.

 

Thanks again. I'll post some pics of the Fitout soon. I fit high end kitchens and bathrooms for 10 years.. a boat is a different game but will share any tricks and tips I may have

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, njdo said:

Thanks for everyone's input. I think it was overfilled.. sorry it just another noob known issue!

 

It is only filled to around a fingernail, an inch and half from the top maybe.. but as soon as it heated up and pressure built, you are right it was travelling from the cap.

 

Can't see any drain valve but will hunt it down or stick the wet vac in there.

 

Thanks again. I'll post some pics of the Fitout soon. I fit high end kitchens and bathrooms for 10 years.. a boat is a different game but will share any tricks and tips I may have

 

Good, pleased it is not something else. The water would have trickled down the outside of the manifold. It also suggests that the little pipe that normally sticks out the side of the filler neck does not have a length of hose on it, so any overflow is directed into the bilge.

 

I assume that your system does not have a remote header tank, so the correct coolant level varies from boat to boat depending upon skin tank capacity. To ascertain the correct level for your boat, fill close to the brim when cold (you have done this), run for a good while to get the engine right up to running temperature. While doing this, coolant will be blown out of the overflow on the filler neck. Let the engine cool right down and whatever the level is in the header tank is the topping up level.

 

Note: this assumes no coolant leaks AND that there is no air or gas trapped in the cooling system.

 

 

 

 

 

[Eeyore]

Welcome. As a new owner you may find the following helpful.

Always top up with an anti freeze mixture.

 

Anti freeze has a life based on its anti corrosion additives, 2 to 5 years is typical. If your coolant is more like an oxtail soup you probably need to drain, flush and refill.

 

The small green wire, top left appears damaged. A piece of insulating tape will do as an emergency "bodge".

 

The cable clip immediately below the green wire should be attached to the engine, check the wiring for damage first before refitting it. This might also be a grounding point for the harness, others will be more familiar with it.

 

The black plastic item taking up most f the right hand side is the two piece cover for the infamous 11 way connector; well known for a variety of issues. Always worth checking when something odd happens with the electrics.

 

The smaller connector to the right is for wires 12 & 13; usually associated with the second (domestic) alternator. 

 

The small black 2 pole "chocolate block" connector right at the bottom is evidence that the main 11 way harness has been altered or repaired in some way.

 

[blackrose]

3 hours ago, njdo said:

Thanks for everyone's input. I think it was overfilled.. sorry it just another noob known issue!

 

What some people do is take the small flexible tube from under the pressure cap and insert it into an auxillary header tank above the height of the engine. Then when the coolant expands beyond the limit of the engine's own header tank it will be forced into the auxiliary tank rather than into the bilges. When the coolant cools down whatever is in the auxiliary header tank will be sucked back into the engine. You can even just use a plastic bottle for this as long as you invert it and fix it in place somehow, possibly with long cable ties to a bulkhead. You obviously need a leak free joint from the tube to the bottle.

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

 

What some people do is take the small flexible tube from under the pressure cap and insert it into an auxillary header tank above the height of the engine. Then when the coolant expands beyond the limit of the engine's own header tank it will be forced into the auxiliary tank rather than into the bilges. When the coolant cools down whatever is in the auxiliary header tank will be sucked back into the engine. You can even just use a plastic bottle for this as long as you invert it and fix it in place somehow, possibly with long cable ties to a bulkhead. You obviously need a leak free joint from the tube to the bottle.

 

For that to work, you need a pressure cap with a rubber seal under the twist cap. Trying to rely on a metal to metal watertight and airtight seal is not likely to succeed. Such caps are available. The same goes for having a bottle below the top of the engine.

 

Doing what you suggest without that rubber seal is likely to cause a leak from under the cap.