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Overplating a 56ft narrowboat


HayleyOnTheCut

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Buckle by name, buckle by nature.

 

3mm thick roofs were common at one time.  Still better than a wooden top.

 

Surely you just need to walk to one side, close to the handrail! 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Buckle by name, buckle by nature.

 

3mm thick roofs were common at one time.  Still better than a wooden top.

I think that some people worry too much about the thickness of the plate on a cabin. Surely it is OK to go thinner if there are more frames 

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My first shareboat, built in 1992 was a Pat Buckle boat. It was 10/6/4 construction and is still about and has not been overplated.

 

The worst bit was not the lack of framing to support the cabin top, but those supporting the sides, which quickly became wavy from some of the other co-owners cross winding it when entering locks.

 

Nevertheless it gave me 10 years of good service and as I said earlier is still going strong on private ownership.

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10 minutes ago, David Mack said:
On 03/08/2023 at 07:36, system 4-50 said:

Is he extant, retired, or still practicing?

 No.

https://www.thegazette.co.uk/notice/3465076

 

Ah. Then I can refer to my dealings with him some 13 years ago.  I came close to doing my fitout at his "yard".  Before I finally comitted to getting a shell via him, I reviewed the proposed arrangement and realised that apart from the hardstanding I was getting little in return for him acting as a middleman in supplying stuff.  On the next visit he coughed so hard and so often that I thought he was going to die within the week and I backed out of the deal.  I changed over to Colecraft, one of the best decisions I ever made.

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Vertical cabin side supports often leave stitch marks on the steel sides after welding. When Resolute, our old boat was built, Graham Edgson omitted them altogether. With front and rear bulkheads added, the cabin top was assembled using a jig then put in place using Acrow props to support. Finally the cabin sides were welded in place, 5mm if I recall. Absolutely dead straight without a ripple to be seen. The cabin top was 4mm supported at 24” intervals. Great job!!

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I remember it. David’s workforce were often laymen rather than specialists with the skills to produce an outstanding job. Coming in at the end of a build, I was aware of customer feedback, not all of which was as favourable as it might have been . RIP Boffy!!

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Well the OP hasn't visited since 11:34am on Wednesday.

 

It's very frustrating when someone like the OP joins the forum to ask these sorts of questions, then doesn't stick around to see the best advice which is this:

 

On 02/08/2023 at 13:15, blackrose said:

 

I probably would, because chances are the pitting is just the start of it. If someone has let their hull rust away because they can't be bothered or can't afford to get it out the water and paint it, then what does that say about the rest of the boat? It might look nice superficially but you never know. 

 

What are your losses if you walk away? Just the slippage/craneage and survey fees?I bought a narrowboat 25 years ago that needed overplating when I should have walked away, because having spent about £500 on the crane and survey I felt compelled to continue. That was a mistake.

 

And this:

 

On 02/08/2023 at 13:35, system 4-50 said:

Walk away.  Better still, run.

 

And for the record @HayleyOnTheCut, my advice is to absolutely walk away.

Edited by booke23
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2 hours ago, booke23 said:

Well the OP hasn't visited since 11:34am on Wednesday.

 

It's very frustrating when someone like the OP joins the forum to ask these sorts of questions, then doesn't stick around to see the best advice which is this:

 

 

And this:

 

 

And for the record @HayleyOnTheCut, my advice advice is to absolutely walk away.

Maybe they received the same advice on the phone from Martin, and was happy to accept it from him. 

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