Beta Marine 38 Control Panel Identification and issues.

[Jeff Naylor]

Hello. We own and ex-Canaltime/SW Durham Steel 45' Narrowboat. The Beta 38 control panel has a number of issues, some of which may well be wiring related. However, before a get into trying to troubleshoot them, my main question is should it have a warning buzzer? I can only find wiring diagrams for post 2005 or 2011 AB panels, and they appear to have bulbs and a buzzer. Ours has a row of LEDS (very hard to see in sunshine!) and there is a sticky pad in the place where the buzzer is shown on later models. Could the buzzer be part of the circuit board with the LEDs on? I'd love to be able to find the BM documentation.

 

I've attached two photos. There is a sticky pad in the place where the buzzer is shown on later models.

 

Currently the tacho and some of the warning lights are intemittent/broken and the tacho is so scratched that you can't even see the hours meter, so I'd love to replace it.

 

If anyone is familiar with this panel type I'd be very grateful for any insight whatsoever.

[DandV]

The fact you can't see the hour meter through the front cover, probably doesn't matter, as the led display would have most likely stopped displaying years ago.

The display weakness is a feature of these panels, even though the brain behind it, remained functional and continued to count.

 

On this site some years ago, there were detailed posts on this subject by somebody who wired a replacement LED display which actually restored the continually counted, but not displayed, engine hours.

 

The post included the details of the segment mapping wiring.

 

Alternatively you could do, what most hire companies do, just install a new separate hour meter from zero. 

 

Certainly our panel had the buzzer, which was sensitive, and would sound, on the basis of the integrity of one of the connections in a connector block.

An engineer at an ABC hire base knew exactly where to look. 

[GUMPY]

Early wiring diagrams for Beta

 

 

Some more

 

And to complete the set

Theses are all from the 1990's as us my engine. 

Edited January 20, 2023 by Loddon

[GUMPY]

So in answer yes there should be a buzzer

Edited January 20, 2023 by Loddon

[Jen-in-Wellies]

I've had success using Brasso to polish up scratched instrument covers. Could revive the tacho, so you can see the needle better. As @DandV says, it is likely that the LCD engine hours display is no longer working now. For deep scratches, start with toothpaste, then go to Brasso. Car paint polishes will probably also work, if you have those, but I've described what I have actually used.

The buzzer on my much later Beta panel failed early on. I replaced it with a pair of cheapo ones, wired across the oil pressure and high temperature warning lights. This was a panel with bulbs, not LED's.

Jen

Edited January 20, 2023 by Jen-in-Wellies

[Tony Brooks]

LEDs require series resistors, and the two battery ones also need parallel resistors. A single buzzer that monitors more than one circuit, as most marine ones do, also requires a set of three diodes. Rather than mess about, I would fit 2.2W warning lamps in place of the LEDs to keep things simple.

 

If your engine has one or two multi-plug connectors in its main wiring harness then they are known to cause all sorts of odd symptoms and certain warning lamps/LEDs not working could be one of them. However, some testing to ensure the relevant senders are OK plus the wiring would be in order. Ask if you want more info.

5 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

I've had success using Brasso to polish up scratched instrument covers. Could revive the tacho, so you can see the needle better. As @DandV says, it is likely that the LCD engine hours display is no longer working now. For deep scratches, start with toothpaste, then go to Brasso. Car paint polishes will probably also work, if you have those, but I've described what I have actually used.

The buzzer on my much later Beta panel failed early on. I replaced it with a pair of cheapo ones, wired across the oil pressure and high temperature warning lights. This was a panel with bulbs, not LED's.

Jen

 

Exactly what I would do, keeps things simple.

[Jeff Naylor]

Wow, this forum is FANTASTIC! Thanks so much for the answers, and in particular the diagrams.

 

I also found some threads that diagnosed the Harness and inbuilt connectors, wiring in the engine bay. I've got plenty to do there before even spening a penny.

 

I'm not that bothered about an engine hours meter - I've got a log book! So I'll get the brasso out

 

With luck a stripdown and clean will locate the issue, and I'll test the sensors as well Tony. I'm guessing the Oil should be Closed Circuit when the engine is running. I'd need to take out the Temp sensor I guess..

 

ADDED - the boat was built in 2002/3. I'm guessing the LED board was a new idea that didn't survive the test of time. If it's got a buzzer in it it must be pretty quiet.

Edited January 21, 2023 by Jeff Naylor

[Tony Brooks]

9 minutes ago, Jeff Naylor said:

Wow, this forum is FANTASTIC! Thanks so much for the answers, and in particular the diagrams.

 

I also found some threads that diagnosed the Harness and inbuilt connectors, wiring in the engine bay. I've got plenty to do there before even spening a penny.

 

I'm not that bothered about an engine hours meter - I've got a log book! So I'll get the brasso out

 

With luck a stripdown and clean will locate the issue, and I'll test the sensors as well Tony. I'm guessing the Oil should be Closed Circuit when the engine is running. I'd need to take out the Temp sensor I guess..

 

Yes. However, testing the circuits is far easier. Locate the terminal on the sensor where the cable from the bulb/LED terminates. I say this because a boat MIGHT have an earth wire on it and the oil pressure sensor MIGHT be a dual unit, one a switch for the bulb/LED and another for an oil pressure gauge. Also locate the warning lamp connection on the alternator. Often marked D+, it will be a small cable - A terminal marked W will also be small, but it drives the rev counter.  Then, with the ignition on, pull each terminal off in turn and touch to clean metal on the engine itself. As you do, the relevant LED/bulb should illuminate. If any do not, then either the bulb (not in your case) has blown or there is an open circuit somewhere.

 

I would suggest doing this first because if they all come on it is probably wise not to disturb the multi-plugs.

Edited January 21, 2023 by Tony Brooks

[Jen-in-Wellies]

8 minutes ago, Jeff Naylor said:

Wow, this forum is FANTASTIC! Thanks so much for the answers, and in particular the diagrams.

 

I also found some threads that diagnosed the Harness and inbuilt connectors, wiring in the engine bay. I've got plenty to do there before even spening a penny.

 

I'm not that bothered about an engine hours meter - I've got a log book! So I'll get the brasso out

 

With luck a stripdown and clean will locate the issue, and I'll test the sensors as well Tony. I'm guessing the Oil should be Closed Circuit when the engine is running. I'd need to take out the Temp sensor I guess..

All part of the service. 😀

The oil pressure sender should be open circuit when the engine is running. When the engine is stopped and there is no oil pressure, then it will close, connecting the wire to the engine block earth, but see @Tony Brooks point above about two wire senders and duel senders. At some point as the oil pressure builds up with the engine running, the sender will go open circuit and the warning light/LED will go out. The circuit will likely go

ignition switched +12V > warning bulb, or LED plus resistor (the resistor may be built in to the LED) > pressure sender >engine block at 0V.

 

[Jeff Naylor]

Prelimary test seems to indicate that the led circuit board is at fault. I'm going to do some more testing later in the week.

 

I have to option of rebuilding it with "real lamos and diodes, but if anyone has a spare panel or just the board I'd be very interested in buying one. I've posted on the wanted forum here, and will contact Beta Marine in the faint hope that there are available as a spare part.

 

BTW, I posted on a Facebook group "Boat Scrapyard" and attracted the attention of an initally quite convincing scammer.

[Jeff Naylor]

At the risk of soundling like I'm talking to myself, here is (almost) full closure on this issue in case anyone has a similar one.

 

Having cleaned and reseated all the connections and proved that the lights were the issue by checking out the continuity of the wiring loom from senders to PCB connector, I removed the small circuit board to see evidence of some re-soldering, a burnt out looking resistor amd a PCB copper track detached from the board, broken and flapping about - hence the intemittent nature of the fault.

 

I managed to bridge the broken track with a soldered link. After that all the lights worked apart from the "On" green led (closest to the burnt resistor) and the temp light, which I checked by grounding the terminal wire as described by Tony.

 

There is no buzzer or wiring for one. The green led tells me nothing I can't work out. The Tach seems to be behaving properly again - it had some condensation in it.

 

So I have a servicable panel, I don't know if my repair with withstand the test of time, so I'm still on the lookout for a new/secondhand panel with a buzzer. The 11 pin harness connector appears to be compatible across the years.

 

Thanks for the diagrams and advice.

 

[Tony Brooks]

Thanks for your feedback. It looks as if the Lister warning lamp problem that came in today may find this interesting.

[Tonka]

2 hours ago, Jeff Naylor said:

At the risk of soundling like I'm talking to myself, here is (almost) full closure on this issue in case anyone has a similar one.

 

Having cleaned and reseated all the connections and proved that the lights were the issue by checking out the continuity of the wiring loom from senders to PCB connector, I removed the small circuit board to see evidence of some re-soldering, a burnt out looking resistor amd a PCB copper track detached from the board, broken and flapping about - hence the intemittent nature of the fault.

 

I managed to bridge the broken track with a soldered link. After that all the lights worked apart from the "On" green led (closest to the burnt resistor) and the temp light, which I checked by grounding the terminal wire as described by Tony.

 

There is no buzzer or wiring for one. The green led tells me nothing I can't work out. The Tach seems to be behaving properly again - it had some condensation in it.

 

So I have a servicable panel, I don't know if my repair with withstand the test of time, so I'm still on the lookout for a new/secondhand panel with a buzzer. The 11 pin harness connector appears to be compatible across the years.

 

Thanks for the diagrams and advice.

 

Can you not buy a new panel from Beta Marine or is it cost prohibited?

[Jeff Naylor]

3 hours ago, Tonka said:

Can you not buy a new panel from Beta Marine or is it cost prohibited?

That would have been my next step. If the circuit board were not available on it's own I suspect the price would have been many hundreds of pounds. The harness is about £90. There is a third party one avaialble for £240 with a 3m harness, but it doesn't have a tacho. As it is I've used about 2p's worth of solder and I'm very happy 🙂

[Jon57]

3 hours ago, Jeff Naylor said:

That would have been my next step. If the circuit board were not available on it's own I suspect the price would have been many hundreds of pounds. The harness is about £90. There is a third party one avaialble for £240 with a 3m harness, but it doesn't have a tacho. As it is I've used about 2p's worth of solder and I'm very happy 🙂

True boater already 🤣

[Pete Morrison]

On 20/01/2023 at 19:36, GUMPY said:

 

 

The alternator/oilpressure/temperature lights haven't ever worked on my control panel which is of this type.

 

All of the lightbulbs work when directly connected to 12V. The AC (accessory) position of my ignition switch isn't working (new one on its way) but if I wire it up directly to simulate "on", it doesn't light the lamps either as I think it should.

 

I don't have a buzzer but otherwise I think the design is the same. I have tested continuity between each of the wires and labeled them (eng temp goes to a wire attached to the outlet to the calorifier, oil goes to a wire attached under the dipstick, and alternator goes to the starter alternator)

 

I thought that black heatshrinkwrapped 1-to-3 connector was just a connector, but maybe it's the diode pack. And maybe the one end is supposed to go to battery negative? I tested continuity between every pair of inputs and outputs into that 4 way thing, both polarities each time, and nothing whatever. Do I need to replace this?
 

Here's a photo of the back of my panel. Diode pack(?) in bottom left. Onlu the warning lights and the connection to AC are connected at the moment.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

What you think is a diode pack is a diode pack. The lack of a buzzer is most likely the problem, as connecting the common side of the diodes direct to +12V, as you have with no buzzer in between, probably effectively bypasses the warning lamps.

Disconnect the diode pack at the common end and see if your warning lights work.

29 minutes ago, Pete Morrison said:

tested continuity between every pair of inputs and outputs into that 4 way thing, both polarities each time, and nothing whatever. Do I need to replace this?
 

How did you measure continuity on this? What setting on the multimeter? Was it with the pack connected up as shown on the photo, or removed?

[Pete Morrison]

50 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

How did you measure continuity on this? What setting on the multimeter?

I used a UNI-T UT203 multimeter on this setting (I always just thought it was the "continuity" setting). I tried both polarities as it has that little diode symbol suggesting it will only work in one direction.

 

 

54 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Disconnect the diode pack at the common end and see if your warning lights work.

Did this, still no lights. But I think there is likely to be more than one problem. I tried connecting directly: +12V -> bulb -> oil sensor wire -> (i assume earthed through engine). No light. So to me, that suggests faulty oil sensor as well, maybe? I also tried connecting directly: +12V -> bulb -> engine temp wire -> (i assume earthed through engine). No light. So maybe also faulty temp sensor?

[Jen-in-Wellies]

34 minutes ago, Pete Morrison said:

I used a UNI-T UT203 multimeter on this setting (I always just thought it was the "continuity" setting). I tried both polarities as it has that little diode symbol suggesting it will only work in one direction.

 

 

And was it done while the diode pack was connected, or removed from the other wiring?

 

35 minutes ago, Pete Morrison said:

Did this, still no lights. But I think there is likely to be more than one problem. I tried connecting directly: +12V -> bulb -> oil sensor wire -> (i assume earthed through engine). No light. So to me, that suggests faulty oil sensor as well, maybe? I also tried connecting directly: +12V -> bulb -> engine temp wire -> (i assume earthed through engine). No light. So maybe also faulty temp sensor?

Try connecting touching the wire to the oil pressure sender direct to bare metal on the engine. If the lamp comes on, then yes, the oil pressure sender may be faulty.

Also check continuity with the multimeter, oil pressure connector to block. Should have continuity when the engine is off.

You can only properly test the coolant temperature sender by overheating it. Would need removing and continuity testing with the end in boiling water. You can test the rest of the circuit wiring by taking the wire off it and grounding it to the engine block, as per the oil pressure sender. If the light comes on, the rest of the circuit is fine.

Also try completely disconnecting the diode pack. Not just at one end.

[Pete Morrison]

18 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

And was it done while the diode pack was connected, or removed from the other wiring?

I tried both. I also tried connecting the end of the diode pack to both battery +ve and battery negative. And both polarities for all combinations. 

 

So end connected to batt +ve: tail1 to end, tail2 to end, tail3 to end; end to tail1, end to tail2, end to tail3. 

End connected to batt -ve: tail1 to end, tail2 to end, tail3 to end. end to tail1, end to tail2, end to tail3. 

End hanging loose: tail1 to end, tail2 to end, tail3 to end. end to tail1, end to tail2, end to tail3. 

 

None of these combinations showed any continuity at all.

18 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Also try completely disconnecting the diode pack. Not just at one end.

 

I removed the whole diode pack and tried tail1 to tail2, tail1 to tail3, tail2 to tail1, tail2 to tail3, tail3 to tail1, and tail3 to tail2. I would definitely expect one or the other polarity to work if the diodes were all functioning? None of these showed any continuity.
 

 

18 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Try connecting touching the wire to the oil pressure sender direct to bare metal on the engine. If the lamp comes on, then yes, the oil pressure sender may be faulty.

With batt +ve -> lamp -> oil sender wire -> oil sender terminal, lamp does not light. If I then connect the oil sender terminal to engine block, the lamp comes on. So that suggests the oil pressure sensor may be faulty?

 

 

18 hours ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

You can test the rest of the circuit wiring by taking the wire off it and grounding it to the engine block, as per the oil pressure sender. If the light comes on, the rest of the circuit is fine.

Same happens with the temperature sender - connected up batt +ve -> lamp -> temp sender wire -> temp sender terminal, lamp does not light. If I then connect the temp sender terminal to engine block, the lamp does come on.

 

--

 

From all of this, it would seem that both of the sensors AND diode pack are all fried. So I should try replacing them all? Any idea what diodes the pack uses? Should I get a buzzer as well and if so what would the spec be?

[Tony Brooks]

The diode pack is only there to allow one buzzer to sound for three faults (low oil pressure, overheat, no charge) so it can be done away with - it only complicates fault-finding. 12V buzzers are cheap, from sub £5, so it will probably be cheaper to fit individual buzzers to each circuit.

 

Yes, it sounds as if the oil pressure sender has failed, but as explained earlier in the thread you can't test the overheat sensor without taking it out and putting it in very hot/boiling water to see if its contacts close.

[Pete Morrison]

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

The diode pack is only there to allow one buzzer to sound for three faults (low oil pressure, overheat, no charge) so it can be done away with - it only complicates fault-finding. 12V buzzers are cheap, from sub £5, so it will probably be cheaper to fit individual buzzers to each circuit.

Or - just not have buzzers and rely only on the warning lights?

 

17 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Yes, it sounds as if the oil pressure sender has failed, but as explained earlier in the thread you can't test the overheat sensor without taking it out and putting it in very hot/boiling water to see if its contacts close.

Ok - so normally when you turn the ignition to the "on" (AC / accessory) position, the alternator and oil pressure lamps should light, but the temperature light doesn't turn on anyway? I think it would be worth in that case taking it out and putting it in boiling water to test it.

[Jen-in-Wellies]

The very similar Barrus control panel uses a similar diode pack for the same job, which is made up of three 1N4001 diodes, which are basic, cheap as chips rectifying diodes. The same could be used to replace the fried ones on the Beta panel. Alternatively, just get individual buzzers for each warning circuit, as @Tony Brooks suggests.

 

Example of the sort of diodes I am talking about. 25 for £1. The postage will cost more than the diodes!

https://www.bitsboxuk.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=1N4001

 

Cheap buzzer. https://www.bitsboxuk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=302_309&products_id=3110

Will do the job. I have a couple of these behind my panel.

[Col_T]

7 hours ago, Pete Morrison said:

just not have buzzers and rely only on the warning lights?

Which works if the warning lights are in plain sight and you look at them. The engine in my boat overheated (air lock in the pipe runs to the cauliflower) which caused both the warning lamp and the buzzer to do their thing. I heard the buzzer, but the lamp was not in plain sight , so was as good as useless.

[Pete Morrison]

Thanks for the advice. I think adding buzzers for each circuit is a much better idea than diodes as this will make it a lot easier to debug if they ever do go off.

 

I also think I'm just going to replace the oil pressure sender, they're pretty inexpensive. This one for 14 quid says it will fit a Kubota v1505 (beta 38). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365357245925

 

On 13/04/2025 at 13:45, Pete Morrison said:

Ok - so normally when you turn the ignition to the "on" (AC / accessory) position, the alternator and oil pressure lamps should light, but the temperature light doesn't turn on anyway? I think it would be worth in that case taking it out and putting it in boiling water to test it.

Can anyone give me the answer to this? I thought it was supposed to turn on when the ignition is on but engine not running, so that you can know if the bulb has failed? If it's not going to turn on ever unless overheated, then I will take the sensor out and test it. Feels unlikely for both the oil pressure and water temperature senders to fail simultaneously, unless it was a voltage spike or something that destroyed both.