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Dr Bob

Confused over relays

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Could you replace the non latching relays with latching relays? These only take current when actually opening or closing.

 

Have to do a search to see what is available.

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2 minutes ago, PaulD said:

Could you replace the non latching relays with latching relays? These only take current when actually opening or closing.

 

Have to do a search to see what is available.

You then need to change the operating switches to momentary action DPCO centre off.

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7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

The only "problem" was that when the idiot (me) working on the wiring caused a short it needed fuse wire to fix and that does not seem so easy to get hold of NOW these days

Yes last time I rewired a fuse I had to use fine tinned copper wire.

Just ordered some more fuse wire from eBay.

Edited by Loddon

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4 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

You then need to change the operating switches to momentary action DPCO centre off.

Still probably the easiest fix.

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Just now, Loddon said:

Yes last time I rewired a fuse I had to use fine tinned copper wire.

Just ordered some more fuse wire from eBay.

Funny you should say that except in my case it was not tinned, just two strands from a cable. Luckily the hardware shop in Southam had cards of fuse wire so easily sorted.

1 minute ago, PaulD said:

Still probably the easiest fix.

If you are changing switches why not do the job properly and fit ones that don't need a relay?

 

Momentary contact switches would also need feeds for LEDs if that was vital to the owner.

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As I mentioned, our boat has electronic switchery, but the boat we used to borrow for many years, just had a fuse panel and  switches for water pump, fridge and shower pump, located near the relevant service. I can’t see why you would need any more “master switchery” than that. Plus obviously switches/buttons for horn, headlight and bilge pump somewhere near the steering position.

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1 hour ago, nicknorman said:

As I mentioned, our boat has electronic switchery, but the boat we used to borrow for many years, just had a fuse panel and  switches for water pump, fridge and shower pump, located near the relevant service. I can’t see why you would need any more “master switchery” than that. Plus obviously switches/buttons for horn, headlight and bilge pump somewhere near the steering position.

People like complicated switchery panels it makes the boat more up market ;)

  • Greenie 1

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14 minutes ago, Loddon said:

People like complicated switchery panels it makes the boat more up market ;)

 

29829_2_take_a_stunning_photo_tour_of_th

 

I think that the USS Enterprise is technically a ship not a boat ...

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7 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

Oi, stop posting pics of my boat!

 

I thought it was MrsBob's boat.

 

As you like the dilithiums you probably want to be Scotty, but you are a doctor and I definitely think you should be in medbay ... and not as Bones! ;)

 

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You cannot use the resistance of a cold relay coil to tell you how much current it will take, just like an old fashioned light bulb the resistance changes when the coil has pulled the relay shut and heated up slightly. An ammeter is the only way but as it is small the chances are your battery monitor won't even register the difference, maybe if you switch 10 on you will cause about a 1 amp change which should register. 

 

Is there an opposite to KISS, because here you have several extra lengths of wire and junctions which are all going to cause volt drop and be points of failure.

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17 hours ago, The Happy Nomad said:

You breezed past comments made about possible effects on your warranty so I take it you are, not bothered, dont care or have had confirmation from Aqualine that there will be none?

 

It will be the cost of posting the boat back to Poland that is putting @Dr Bob off warranty claims. 😁😂

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29 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

It will be the cost of posting the boat back to Poland that is putting @Dr Bob off warranty claims. 😁😂

 

If they are anything like Mastervolt, they'll tell him it can't be fixed and offer him three hundred quid off a newer model! :D

 

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1 hour ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

If they are anything like Mastervolt, they'll tell him it can't be fixed and offer him three hundred quid off a newer model! :D

 

Better than buying a Collingwood where they just twist the wires together with a masking tape label attached 🤣

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20 hours ago, The Happy Nomad said:

You breezed past comments made about possible effects on your warranty  

Has he got one

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8 hours ago, Loddon said:

Switches for Fridges and pumps will have to be decent size ones, I never switch either off when we are onboard and just pull the pump fuse when we are away for the winter (fridge is 230v). Having said that there is a switch next to the water pump under the bed, I have never used it as pulling the fuse is easier ;)

 

 

My water pump and shower pump ate both fed via local MK 240 volt AC 5 Amp switches, the shower pump has been switched on and off  2or 3 times every day we are onboard for the past 18 years. The water pump gets switched on once a trip, its often switched off without the pump running, The pump for the radiator only gets switched occasionally as its not used that much, again an MK 240 volt AC  5 Amp lighting switch. None have failed yet. All the lights are via the same type of switch but the lights are now LEDs so little current. If and when they fail I will just change then for the same.

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