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Capnbob

Rule-mate 500 bilge pump - how to remove elec connector

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Pump stopped working, and became submerged, so trying to remove it for a fix. Problem is removing the rubber electric connector/grommet. Tried pulling hard, but it's resisting, and I'm anxious not to damage a connector which - by definition - has to stay water tight when reassembled. Grateful for any tips (even if just to say the brute force method has worked for  you). Thanks.

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Why do you need to disconnect the electric? You should be able to lift it up with the cable attached and see if anything is jamming the impeller. The outer cage usually pulls off for cleaning. If it's not jammed physically, then you need a new one.( Comparative pence in the boating scheme of things. )

Even if you manage to get it going dry, I wouldn't want to trust it.

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20 minutes ago, Capnbob said:

Pump stopped working, and became submerged, so trying to remove it for a fix. Problem is removing the rubber electric connector/grommet. Tried pulling hard, but it's resisting, and I'm anxious not to damage a connector which - by definition - has to stay water tight when reassembled. Grateful for any tips (even if just to say the brute force method has worked for  you). Thanks.

You don't remove the cable from the pump, you follow the cable back and will probably find a chocblock or other connector to undo.

 

I tend to go with David that the pump   probably needs replacing but before you do that there is often a hole in the base where water enters the impeller, if it has one make sure the impeller is free to revolve and has no muck clogging it.

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Capnbob said:

Pump stopped working, and became submerged, so trying to remove it for a fix. Problem is removing the rubber electric connector/grommet. Tried pulling hard, but it's resisting, and I'm anxious not to damage a connector which - by definition - has to stay water tight when reassembled. Grateful for any tips (even if just to say the brute force method has worked for  you). Thanks.

I threw mine away.

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Link to the destruction manual for Rule bilge pumps. As others have said, where the cables go in to the pump body is a sealing grommet, not a waterproof connector. If you manage to pull it out, you've broken it! Connection will have been made by the installer somewhere along the wires, hopefully above bilge water level, but you never know.

You can remove the pump body from the base by pressing the tabs each side. This will let you clear any blockage, or gunk that is jamming the impeller. If that doesn't fix it, then it is time for a new one.

Jen

Edited by Jen-in-Wellies
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18 minutes ago, Capnbob said:

Point taken, but I'd still like to check for simple things like a blocked impeller first.

I had assumed you had already checked for that! You don't need to disconnect the power cable to do that. You may or may not need to disconnect the outlet hose, depending on how long and how flexible it is.

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4 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Connection will have been made by the installer somewhere along the wires, hopefully above bilge water level, but you never know.

It is a BSS requirement, so it MUST be above bilge water level.

 

3.3.3 Are all electrical cable connections above bilge water level or suitably protected? (Required)

 

Check the position of all cable connections which can be seen.

Where cable connections are below bilge water level check for the presence of watertight enclosures marked as compliant with IP 67.

All cable connections must be above bilge water level or be protected by a watertight enclosure meeting the IP 67 standard.

 

NOTE – this check applies to connections on both a.c. and d.c. cables.

NOTE – the final cable connection to submersible bilge pumps and transducers or any other equipment intended for operation below bilge water level must be presumed to comply. NOTE – bilge water level can be established by any apparent bilge water tidemark.

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19 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Link to the destruction manual for Rule bilge pumps. As others have said, where the cables go in to the pump body is a sealing grommet, not a waterproof connector. If you manage to pull it out, you've broken it! Connection will have been made by the installer somewhere along the wires, hopefully above bilge water level, but you never know.

You can remove the pump body from the base by pressing the tabs each side. This will let you clear any blockage, or gunk that is jamming the impeller. If that doesn't fix it, then it is time for a new one.

Jen

Yep, that's what I was expecting, but couldn't find a definitive source to confirm, so thanks for that. Agreed it should be removable from a connector upstream, but as far as I can tell the cabling just disappears into the loom. Maybe it's just buried under a lot of insulating tape, so I'll work on that next. Thanks for all the replies folks.

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Just a thought, is there actually power available to the pump should it need to activate?  In other words - is the fuse ok or are any connections sound?

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On 25/08/2020 at 10:32, Jen-in-Wellies said:

...where the cables go in to the pump body is a sealing grommet, not a waterproof connector. If you manage to pull it out, you've broken it!

Nicely put Jen!  :D

 

  • Haha 1

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