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Rear doors get the weather, steel outer Ok, inner ply wet at foot. I was thinking of using that black board with embossed circles folks use on stern.

Is it Major project, or do I remove rot and replace ?

 

Edited by LadyG

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Not a major project to swap the board.  Phenolic ply as you suggest is less rot prone, but may be a beggar to paint.

Also you need to sort out why water is affecting the ply.  That might be a bigger job.

N

 

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15 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Rear doors get the weather, steel outer Ok, inner ply wet at foot. I was thinking of using that black board with embossed circles folks use on stern.

Is it Major project, or do I remove rot and replace ?

They’re often glued in addition to being screwed in from the edge. Depending on the adhesive used they can be either easy or a total pig to remove. Whatever you choose to replace the existing rotted wood you MUST seal the edges prior to fitting them. 

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3 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Not a major project to swap the board.  Phenolic ply as you suggest is less rot prone, but may be a beggar to paint.

Also you need to sort out why water is affecting the ply.  That might be a bigger job.

N

 

It is driving rain, and age [2002].

I won't paint it, its in the stern, I quite like the look.

Edited by LadyG

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Just now, LadyG said:

It is driving rain, and age [2002].

I won't paint it, its in the atern.

You need to seal the edges

 

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6 minutes ago, WotEver said:

They’re often glued in addition to being screwed in from the edge. Depending on the adhesive used they can be either easy or a total pig to remove. Whatever you choose to replace the existing rotted wood you MUST seal the edges prior to fitting them. 

Chisel poised, there seem to be some coachbolt heads. I will seal edges with epoxy.

Adding to 2020/2021 to do list, mid summer. Outside is steel, I assume this is normall on a steel boat.

Edited by LadyG

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27 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Outside is steel, I assume this is normall on a steel boat.

Yup. 

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Hi all, 

sorry to tag on to this thread but same has happened to ours.

can you get complete inserts made up and how much would this kind of job cost?

cheers

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9 minutes ago, Leemc said:

Hi all, 

sorry to tag on to this thread but same has happened to ours.

can you get complete inserts made up and how much would this kind of job cost?

cheers

 

 

If you can get the old pieces out and have some new pieces cut, then fit them yourself - the cost won't be that much. Other's labour will always make the cost look bad. The best other necessity is to stop the wood getting wet and seal properly..., to avoid the problem reoccurring down the line. 

 

 

  • Greenie 1

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Leave a 6 to 10mm gap between the door board and the floor/sill to prevent water wicking up into the wood. Driving rain will always get under the door and produce a few beads of water.

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13 hours ago, Leemc said:

Thanks.

Will have a close look and see if able to remove old insert

Look for tiny screws covered in paint along the edges of the doors. 

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I've had water resistant MDF stuck to all my doors over the last 15 years. They're just basic flat steel doors without any 90 deg return to contain the panel, yet no signs of any rot. I thought MDF was supposed to be crap on boats?

Edited by blackrose

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7 hours ago, blackrose said:

I've had water resistant MDF stuck to all my doors over the last 15 years. They're just basic flat steel doors without any 90 deg return to contain the panel, yet no signs of any rot. I thought MDF was supposed to be crap on boats?

I wonder if it’s the lack of a return that’s helped? Nowhere for any moisture to stay trapped. 

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As Wotever has said if the inserts are glued in place it can take a couple of hours of knuckle bashing work to remove them. Most experienced boat fitters will be very wary of giving a price up front.

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32 minutes ago, WotEver said:

I wonder if it’s the lack of a return that’s helped? Nowhere for any moisture to stay trapped. 

Yes, could be. I always thought they were inferior doors but at least they're trouble free.

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19 minutes ago, blackrose said:

Yes, could be. I always thought they were inferior doors but at least they're trouble free.

I quickly made new rear door inserts from MDF (not MRMDF) on WotEver because it was all I had to hand. They rotted within a year because of the moisture trapped above the bottom return. I then remade them out of Ash when I had a bit more time. 

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There is a problem with side doors that have the bottom folded up beyond 90 degrees. Condensation is trapped in the resulting groove and soaks into the bottom of the timber liners, drilling a couple of holes through the bottom corners seems to work well to drain them.

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

I quickly made new rear door inserts from MDF (not MRMDF) on WotEver because it was all I had to hand. They rotted within a year because of the moisture trapped above the bottom return. I then remade them out of Ash when I had a bit more time. 

Just had a look and they're not actually inserts, rather a stuck on piece(ash maybe). The rest of the doors appear to be in good(ish) condition. Is cutting off the rot at the bottom an option?

IMG_0269.JPG

IMG_0268.JPG

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Its not a massive issue, but obviously going to get worse. I quite like the doors as a whole and have been well made and would expensive to replicate if I could find anyone to do it.

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7 hours ago, Leemc said:

Is cutting off the rot at the bottom an option?

Sure. Anything is possible :)

 

A multitool would be good to chop it off. It looks like ply to me from those photos, so the rot may well have migrated upwards. 

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10 hours ago, Mike Jordan said:

There is a problem with side doors that have the bottom folded up beyond 90 degrees. Condensation is trapped in the resulting groove and soaks into the bottom of the timber liners, drilling a couple of holes through the bottom corners seems to work well to drain them.

If (unlike me) you have good quality steel doors with 90deg returns then why don't you just install the wooden liner with a 3mm gap all around and stick the liner in with Stixall making sure the gap is completely filled with the sealant? Sealed edges, no water ingress and an expansion gap full of flexible sealant that goes off like rubber. If you didn't put too much Stixall on the back of the liner you'd still be able to get it out of you ever needed to, but I doubt you'd ever need to.

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19 hours ago, blackrose said:

I've had water resistant MDF stuck to all my doors over the last 15 years. They're just basic flat steel doors without any 90 deg return to contain the panel, yet no signs of any rot. I thought MDF was supposed to be crap on boats?

The right stuff is great, the DIY store stuff is normally crap

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I put new kitchen doors BandQ, three monthw, one warped

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1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

DIY store stuff is normally crap

 

32 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I put new kitchen doors BandQ, three monthw, one warped

 

Q.E.D.

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