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Morse Cables


robtheplod

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3 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

Current brake fluid is non corrosive and silicone based so should be good used sparingly

Old stuff was horribly bad on painted surfaces and attacked some rubbers and plastics.

As all cars now use plastic reservoirs it would seem that new stuff is compatible with the plastic/nylon liner in flex cables.

 

 

But "plastics" encompass a range of different polymers. Plastic brake fluid reservoirs are probably made from polypropylene or perhaps polyethylene and they're quite thick gauge vessels. As an example of chemical resistance, battery boxes can be made from polypropylene or polyethylene as these are olefins and resistant to acids. That isn't necessarily the case for other types of plastics such as nylon which is a polyamide. I don't know what plastics would be attacked by brake fluid but I'd be very careful in assuming a thin gauge nylon isn't. In any case, the point is that modern morse cables with nylon liners aren't designed to be lubricated and if they are correctly routed with no severe bends they shouldn't need any lubrication. But if you must then just use silicone spray - not brake fluid.

 

Edited by blackrose
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23 minutes ago, blackrose said:

the point is that modern morse cables with nylon liners aren't designed to be lubricated and if they are correctly routed with no severe bends they shouldn't need any lubrication. But if you must then just use silicone spray - not brake fluid.

Makes you wonder why they bother making brake fluid...!  Oh, hang on...

 

Anyway, I'm pretty sure custard won't attack the nylon in a Morse cable that shouldn't be lubricated, so I'm gonna try that in anything that doesn't need any lubrication in future. Lubricating things that don't need lubrication is obviously the way ahead. ;)

 

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1 minute ago, bizzard said:

Cheap small Mig welders have a nylon sheath inside the transport hose to the torch. Over time the welding wire would wear a sort of V in the nylon sheath causing the wire to keep sticking in the V, time to chuck it.

Or treat it with brake fluid / custard (delete as appropriate). 

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There was a time when certain cars like Jaguar and Rover had a mixture of different makes of hydraulic brake components.  Dunlop calipers, Girling master cylinder and Lockheed Servo.  Confusion as to which make of brake fluid went in them. I seem to remember that Girling amber, high temp fluid was recommended although most garages just bunged Holts Universal fluid into everything.  Incidentally Dunlop invented the disc brake.

Edited by bizzard
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17 minutes ago, bizzard said:

There was a time when certain cars like Jaguar and Rover had a mixture of different makes of hydraulic brake components.  Dunlop calipers, Girling master cylinder and Lockheed Servo.  Confusion as to which make of brake fluid went in them. I seem to remember that Girling amber, high temp fluid was recommended although most garages just bunged Holts Universal fluid into everything.  Incidentally Dunlop invented the disc brake.

did they also make your visage, Bizzard?     B)

 

 

 

 

 

 

....................  did you see what I did there ?   :P

Edited by Murflynn
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6 minutes ago, Murflynn said:

did they also make your visage, Bizzard?     B)

 

 

 

 

 

 

....................  did you see what I did there ?   :P

Yes and no I bought it from a joke shop to wear at a pub crawl charity bicycle ride. I wore pyjamas too and was stopped by the police who asked me at truncheon point if I had trousers on underneath. 

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On 22/11/2019 at 09:06, Tony Brooks said:

Unless the construction of the cables has changed I don't really see how normal water drops and damp can cause  any problems and don't know how oiling it will help and may well cause problems. The ones I have had apart used a single strand stainless steel inner cable that ran in a nylon tube. However If you drop one end in bilge water for the winter they certainly will stiffen up.

 

Of far more concern to me ref. breaking are the brass/alloy trunnions inside the control head. keeping those lubricated is vital.

The main cause of failure I have found is that when the back nuts are tightened onto the trunion the inner cable has been twisted. This puts an axial load on the trunion in the lever arm which cuts into it. After tightening the back nuts I always take the trunion out of the lever and check that it still aligns with hole.  The examples shown in the pictures show the wear caused and not far off complete failure. These had done 3000hrs in 10 years on the original cables.  Morse Seastar state that the cables must not be lubricated or have a bend radius of less than 200mm (8")

Morse Trunions 001.jpg

Morse Trunions 002.jpg

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