We have a portable induction hob at home purchased as a stop gap while waiting for a new cooker. Typically ~1 kW per "ring". They are brilliant, but not for a boat.
Unless there is a lot of heavy stuff still to go in during fit out you are being fed BS. Go back to the maker. The quantity of ballast that you need will not come cheap and it will cost to have it delivered.
I'd not breast up in potentially choppy waters. The consequences of the ropes coming adrift could be serious, and at the least you'll get a lot of banging and spray from between the hulls. If assistance is necessary, do it on a long line.
Having collected our stove, i can confirm that he is basically a bloke in a large shed on an industrial estate, the sort where people still make stuff.
I've recently taken 200 l of water out of the cabin bilge after the filter on the domestic water pump inlet decided to undo itself. Had to lift a section of laminate (laid crossways so easy), use a hole-saw to access the corner of the bilge that is lowest in the water and pump out with a drill-pump. Last bit of water came out soaked into disposal nappies. There was an inspection holethat I'd cut already in the centre rear but it was hard to get to (being under the bed) and only a slight list to the boat pushed it to one side.
A boat should have throughways at the corners of each of the transverse members supporting the floor to permit water to drain to the back.
If you don't have an immersion heater or blanking plug, it may be feasible to fit an external immersion (also known as a Belfast or Willis immersion) close to the calorifier.
If you do fit an immersion heater, remember that many shore power outlets are only 6 amp so 1500 Watts max. Allow for miscellaneous other items drawing power (battery charger?) and you might conclude that a 1 kW heater is what is needed. It will take longer to get hot water. Alternatively fit a power controller.
Can you see the waterways guides on the DBA website? You need to be a member. Canalplan is still fairly flaky on the mainland, it's hard to find relevant place names and even whole waterways.
As in 1979, the worst wash comes from the police patrol boats. We viewed them with fear when I rowed on the tideway. The 40 knot catamarans of today leave hardly any wake.
Looks like my access, but better. I've been thinking of getting a hatch installed in the back deck above the weedhatch for twenty-something years, but as I've only been down the hatch three times (twice to look at the prop and once to remove a fishing rod bag) it's not been high on my list of priorities. I guess it depends on how often you need to open it. As years go by and my back gets weaker, it may become more important.
In principle you could fit it pretty much anywhere in the pipework. It's often built into the PRV assembly (Screwfix sell one like that, but it gets lousy reviews, mostly due to its poor quality reducer set). Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRESSURE-REDUCING-VALVE-DZR-BRASS-C-W-REAR-ENTRY-GAUGE-15MM-1-6-BAR-PRV/283028234837?epid=1291027221&hash=item41e5cc2255:g:P0AAAMXQVERSvZTd
Plenty of pressure gauges on Ebay, I think glycerin-filled are considered better than air-filled. Your choice of fitting and position: usually 1/4 or 1/8 BSP and bottom or back fitting.
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