I suspect that in most installations a NRV is solving an imaginary problem. Our NB hasn't got one, and our shared oil tanker used to have one until I took it out. The latter enabled me to remove the expansion tank and repurpose some space in a cupboard.
Only necessary if there is a NRV between the accumulator on the cold side and the calorifier feed (and if that accumulator is adequately sized for expansion).
Statistically nonsense. Consider the hypothetical example that 80% of the population score 1 on some arbitrary scale of intelligence and 20% score 0. The average score is 0.8 and most of the population score higher than the average.
I think the costs mentioned might be a bit on the high side. I had the prop replaced, a new taper machined on the shaft and stern gland repacked with change from £1000. No, the stern gland was repacked with the proper stuff, not bank notes. Doesn't include dry docking as we had the blacking done at the same time. About 8 years ago so add a bit for inflation.
Don't know about the BMC 1.5, but a Beta 38 was pretty much a drop-in replacement for our BMC1.8. The gearbox housing fitted, it just needed a new drive plate and some tweaks to the engine mounts.
I've slightly lost the plot but that is a raw water cooled engine, probably direct as I can't see an intermediate hx. Was it isolated and drained before the first frost?...
Have you a bleed tap at the top of the skin tank? Oil floats so take out as much as you can there, top up the water, repeat, run engine to stir it up, etc. You'll get most of it out that way.
You'll ideally need an anti-surge circuit if fitting a big transformer. Otherwise connecting the shore power at the wrong part of the phase will give rise to a whopping big input current and trip the MCB. Happens to us about one in five connects so not a big deal to go out and reset it. Some transformers designed for marine use have circuitry fitted. Add-ons are available.
My Vauxhall Viva gave a very loud clunk and whirr once when starting it. A delve under the bonnet revealed that the starter motor had fallen off and hit the ground.
I'm not familiar with your charge controller but I'd assume that one sensor should monitor casing temperature and the other ambient. Where have you put your sensors?
A shortish day to Evesham (not far ATCF but much longer as the river meanders. It always surprised me that the first view of Evesham abbey was off the stern of the boat). A longer day, or two short days to SoA.
I once bought some from a local hardware store run by an eccentric old bloke (long since departed). Asked for a bottle of meths and he vanished out the back for twenty minutes. Eventually he came back, swaying more than slightly, and handed over a Harvey's Bristol Cream bottle filled with meths.
They don't make them like that any more.
If I were putting panels on my nb, which I'm not, I'd be tempted to put them into a wooden surround (like a roof box) with a snug fit. That would avoid snagging of ropes etc and could hide a hinge mechanism to tilt them (in two axes if your imagination runs that far).
Horizontal panels work better at capturing diffuse light when it's cloudy. Depending on your circumstances, it may be important to optimise for crappy cloudy weather rather than for bright sunlight. The derating of panels when they get hot may also be unimportant if you want to optimise for winter days when it's cold. The Vetus calculator is useful for designing a system and you can enter your choice of panel parameters.
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.