adrianh

BOA and ka good this time of year without the fleets of hire boats causing caous at the lock at weekends when the vlockies are absent. I live locally and have also heard nothing of trouble

Any pipe stat will do the job although a bit ugly if you can see it. Alternative is a capillary thermost as used on older boilers rs733 4723 or similar. Non of these are deigned for a DC load so add a back emf diode across the contact or pump to reduce arcing when it turns off

I forgot to say in the earlier post that not all of the meters of the type as the first link can indicate a value for a negative current . For the meter in my later post I managed to get the Chinese supplier to send a slightly better translated instruction sheet by email.

Don't run this type of pump dry as it will quickly destroy them by impact damage to the internal piston. Fill the pump and pipework before applying power.

I have had these for a couple of years but never managed to get the current side to work correctly. The shunts, available in higher currents than 100 amps, go in the negative and have no protection. The instructions suggest that they are fitted with a 12 volt voltage regulator in the power supply line to get steady readings. I am just changing to the Ah type meter of a similar size/style also on ebay. This has the shunt in a module and connects via a usb or wireless to the display, although the set up instructions are poor translations. Will post a link when I find it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-120V-300A-Wireless-Volt-Ammeter-Power-Meter-battery-Charge-discharge-capacity/172278832577?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

The nearest petrol as you enter bath is on the London Road 24 hrs station. Moor before the tunnels, walk up to the main road, go right, keep right along the main route passed the fire station up to the lights then right again. Probably best part of a mile. The next fuel is on the river just after the main road bridge. Duncan is up the track near the waste point then go left. Not sure if it is still open as I think it was for sale again

These sleeves are useful on a worn shaft if seals leak. It is not possible to use them on a worn shaft under a ball or roller bearing but I have seen them used inside a plain bearing as they increase the shaft size. Hopefully your problems will relate to worn or slack rolling bearings and just clutch pack problems. Gearboxes can almost always be repaired if you have the will and the funds!

Similar types of belt are available from Bramber also fenner super t link and one from Rdg tools that might be better. These belts are not designed for a small pulley or high loads and always seem to stretch quickly. You could look at industrial auto belt tensioner by Rosta Look at transmission developments Web site for the chain version and change the sprocket for a pulley. Pm me if you need help with this

Without the seal you can easily lift the glass enough to inject two blogs of silicon for it to rest on in the future. Just need to give the silicon 24 hours to cure before re seating the glass. Trim silicon to make sure water can pass to the drain holes

Don't try the lever up option without removing the internal O ring filler seal first. I stupidly did and broke the glass. On my old style windows the rubber seal is flush with the inner frame perimeter. Might be worth checking that the correct section seal has been used when manufactured, ask for a small sample to verify. To get the seal out flatten a piece of welding wire and slightly hook the end, slide down the edge of the seal and ease out

Try a largest dc rated capacitor on the low power line to hold up the voltage whilst the relay switches.

If the pump is American then probably unf, if not then metric. You will need to measure the top diameter and pitch accurately, then allow a small amount on the diameter to identify any screw. If you don't have the equipment to do this go to a local fastener supplier or engineering shop with a sample. The small numbered American sizes are easily confused for metric. Not all small metric sizes are easily obtained. If you are using stainless make sure they are well greased.

You will only need to book ahead for the harbour festival weekend, look on line for 2018 date. The only free moorings at this time are towards the lower end of the harbour with a long walk if the ferries have stopped and you do not get power or water locally. Always check with Neatham before leaving Hanham lock as it is not easy to wait above Neatham lock if it is closed, this can be several hours or much longer if the river is high

There are very few places that you can Moor along the river due to its nature , on my last trip to Bristol 2 months ago just about every free mooring and most visitor moorings beyond Weston lock at Bath were occupied . Some with boats that had not moved for quite a few weeks. There is a good cycle path into the outskirts of Bristol ( Bitton) from the centre of Bath, but traffic in Bristol can be heavy with little provision for cyclists I am told. ,I àvoid the river if it is about to rise rapidly, usually 1 to 2 days after heavy rain further East , as I have been trapped on it and had to many near misses. Travelling back from Bristol can be tricky as quite a few of the river locks are close to weirs.

There have been ongoing intermittent stoppages around Crofton for quite a few weeks due to low water levels. Check the CART site and register for emailed updates if you want the latest. Also a stoppage due soon in Bath for a new bridge across the river. If you are thinking of stopping in Bristol Harbour you have to pay quite a bit everyday. It is not part of Cart. I believe that a long waiting list exists for moorings, the harbour master is on the ball and will rapidly move you if in a wrong place. Few places to safely stop on the river now as most are occupied longterm. On the K and A you will have to move regularly unless you have a paid for mooring. Most of the popular places are heavily occupied even without the large number of hire boats during the summer. If you want an easy life try and find a paid mooring, although this will be difficult.

The black plastic is possibly a grade of oil filled nylon. Will work very well but must only be fitted with 1 tight screw and the others loose to allow for expansion / contraction due to variable moisture levels. A soft wax is a good lub for a hatch slide. Just interested to know how you are going too attach thin PTFE? By its very nature nothing will stick to it. If screwed you will only be able to use small ( m4) countersunk screws or similar. Ideally it needs a very smooth surface to run against, ie thin stainless steel strips glued to the underside of the hatch. Never use WD40 as a lubricant as this seriously increases friction with PTFE. Will slide very easily when wet - in my work I use it a lot in the food industry

Have you tried a small hex Allen key, maybe 3 or 4 mm AF

This works but you need a good large volume strainer on the suction. I had this system for many years. Hairs are your worst enemy as they make the valves leak, fixable by stripping and cleaning the pump

You need to use latching relays with normally open and normally closed or changeover contacts. These are available either with magnetic latching and have 2 coils or with a ratchet single coil pulse type so do not draw power continuously. Made by Finder or Omron either din rail or 11 pin base. Not designed for switching DC loads so use these to switch an automotive type relay for the load with a back emf diode across the relay coil. Contact if you need circuit/part numbers.

Just remember that any battery only has a limited number of discharge charge cycles made worse by heavy use and persistent under charging. A figure of around 200 full cycles is not unusual . If you can operate with 2 batteries used on alternate days you have a better chance of recharging them

That battery voltage sounds a bit low to me. Have you tried a new heavy duty say 150 Ah battery. You need to check voltage at the input to the Webasto. I have recently seen a new example of this unit all wired with 2.5mm domestic cable through the cheap red type isolator. This resulted in a large voltage drop and frequently cause ignition failure then lock out.Boat service people locally could not reset unit so owner had to pay a premium with manufacturer twice . One more thought, have you got some sort of seal fault on your fuel tank that results in the pressure inside rising when hot and pushing the fuel into the burner above the designed flow rate

If you are buying new foam it needs to be closed cell type otherwise it acts like a sponge and does not seal. My windows have O ring cord on the inside seal and low level drainage slots that takes any internal water back outside.

A motor with seals etc suitable for submersion will be very pricy, 1k plus I expect. I have seen Danfoss motors used directly fitted into old wooden rudder. Only last a couple of years until moisture ingress destroys bearings and let's them leak oil into water way. As far as I remember Anglian use an angled Denison piston motor, similar to Voac . Cost 2k ish or more and not easy to get

I may be able to help with this re pump flow etc. Use to design/build industrial systems so have plenty of tech knowledge. Have seen a few systems, you can use a fixed displacement pump / motor setup ( cheapest) or variable displacement. Either way it is likely to be more expensive than a standard say PRM setup. PM me for contact details

I see no reason why this should not work although you may need a circulating pump. If you want the immersion heater to last you need an incoly element as these are better resisting chalk and corrosion, although more expensive.