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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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  1. That’s brilliant thank you mike, just the answer we were looking for. I’ll be looking for a new open boiler now. Question is, which one do we go for?
  2. Yep, he’s got the ticket. He only does marine gas work
  3. So they’re compliant with BSS for livaboards?
  4. Boat is live aboard, boiler installed in kitchen. Gas safe Engineer will fit it
  5. Our boat was built in 2005 and the PO said she was not allowed to fit a normal piezo style boiler due to the change in regs at the time. I don’t like the boiler we got (Morco FE11), it’s never worked right (I think due to the incorrect flue) it needs 240v power to fire and it’s generally a temperamental pain in the ass. As I understand it now BSS have relaxed the regs in this department. Does this mean I am now ‘allowed’ to rip the thing out and replace it with piezo open boiler? Thanks in advance ?
  6. Good thought, will plug in the computer charger or something and give it another tey
  7. It’s a pure sine wave Stirling electronics inverter. All readings taken are without load so are the actual recorded output of inverter/geny. I’ll change multimeter battery and borrow a mates for comparison. It does seem to be very odd.
  8. Hi, I’m having some problems with my room sealed boiler not firing and thus has led me to look at my electrical system. Thd boiler (morco compact electronic 11ltr) requires 240v to fire. I can only get a max of 14.1v on my multimeter when set to 200~ (ac). When I run it off the geny I get 110v on the multimeter. Surely both should be 230/240v or am I testing something wrong? The boiler is at the end of a ring main and all sockets are testing the same so do not believe it to be voltage drop or fault in wiring.
  9. Canal fed jacuzzi on a narrowboat?! That's either an engineering marvel or madness. I think maybe both! ;-)
  10. Thanks again Sam, yes I intend to fit a shallow trap as well. It was just getting from 1.5"/ 40mm to 3/4"/ 20mm that was causing me to scratch my head. Thank you both for your thoughts on baths. I'm not intending to install this bath on either of your boats so you needn't worry. Black Rose you comment about women is sexist and irrelevant
  11. Sam, you're a star! That's perfect. This has been driving me mad, glad it's such a simple/ cheap fix https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-hose-connector/48625?tc=BT1&ds_kid=92700020953274405&ds_rl=1249799&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ar34Jio2gIVTbXtCh2L_gFCEAQYAiABEgIugvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMT7tvOYqNoCFcFnGwod5zYCzg
  12. Anyone got a cast iron roll top bath on their boat? im trying to work out what to do about the waste drain. The flange needs to be at least 70mm dia with enough thread for the thickness of the bath (prob 25mm or so) ideally it would not be a 40 or 32mm outlet as I'll be attaching it to a gulper with a 20mm fitting. I thought of buying a waste with overflow and blanking the 40mm outlet then using the 20mm overflow spur as the outlet. The overflow of the bath can then either be blanked or a hose taken from it into the engine bilge where there is an auto bilge pump just in case. Doubt I'd ever manage to over fill it though!!
  13. Is there anyone on here with a non-hydraulic collapsible roof to their wheelhouse? I'm talking about the Dutch barge type. Ive all but dissed the design of the windows/ doors but not the roof. Would like it to be insulated, possible made in fibreglass. Don't want canvas Sny thoughts/ info/ pics would be greatly appreciated!
  14. Yes, probe measures pipe temp and would be se correctly. Might be me but I can't find pipestats online, anyone got a link? This type look good but only in US? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=pipe+thermostat+switch&safe=off&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwituJC-hoTYAhVKKFAKHbCnAuUQ_AUIEigC&biw=320&bih=460#imgrc=hHODElNTYn43TM:
  15. I'm wiring in a temperature control switch to operate a pump for our central heating system run off our back boiler. just wanted to double check before I went ahead that I'm going to wire it correctly. It's clear where the +/- terminals are but would I be correct in saying the terminal marked 'relay contact' should go to the pump so that it is activated are the set temperature?
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