OllyO

Yes that sounds very plausible. Are the diodes within the alternator? I may just whip it off and take it to be tested

It’s the 5cyl kubota K14134 BF2803 ive now found that our electrician had somehow managed to connect B1 (+) of the Dom alternator to a batt neg. this has now been rectified but we’re now getting a cracking/buzzing rather than a continuous beep?

Still can’t get to the bottom of this. the engine is the 5cyl kubota. If anyone has some further thoughts or can point me in the direction of the oil pressure sender I’d be much appreciated.

I’ve just started our engine after a rewire of the engine room and some work done to cooling system and found that whilst the engine starts and runs fine the beeping present on the first ignition position doesn’t turn off after the engine has started. Oil pressure looks ok, temp ok, batt charging. Any thoughts? IMG_0419.MOV

That’s brilliant thank you mike, just the answer we were looking for. I’ll be looking for a new open boiler now. Question is, which one do we go for?

Yep, he’s got the ticket. He only does marine gas work

So they’re compliant with BSS for livaboards?

Boat is live aboard, boiler installed in kitchen. Gas safe Engineer will fit it

Our boat was built in 2005 and the PO said she was not allowed to fit a normal piezo style boiler due to the change in regs at the time. I don’t like the boiler we got (Morco FE11), it’s never worked right (I think due to the incorrect flue) it needs 240v power to fire and it’s generally a temperamental pain in the ass. As I understand it now BSS have relaxed the regs in this department. Does this mean I am now ‘allowed’ to rip the thing out and replace it with piezo open boiler? Thanks in advance ?

Good thought, will plug in the computer charger or something and give it another tey

It’s a pure sine wave Stirling electronics inverter. All readings taken are without load so are the actual recorded output of inverter/geny. I’ll change multimeter battery and borrow a mates for comparison. It does seem to be very odd.

Hi, I’m having some problems with my room sealed boiler not firing and thus has led me to look at my electrical system. Thd boiler (morco compact electronic 11ltr) requires 240v to fire. I can only get a max of 14.1v on my multimeter when set to 200~ (ac). When I run it off the geny I get 110v on the multimeter. Surely both should be 230/240v or am I testing something wrong? The boiler is at the end of a ring main and all sockets are testing the same so do not believe it to be voltage drop or fault in wiring.

Canal fed jacuzzi on a narrowboat?! That's either an engineering marvel or madness. I think maybe both! ;-)

Thanks again Sam, yes I intend to fit a shallow trap as well. It was just getting from 1.5"/ 40mm to 3/4"/ 20mm that was causing me to scratch my head. Thank you both for your thoughts on baths. I'm not intending to install this bath on either of your boats so you needn't worry. Black Rose you comment about women is sexist and irrelevant

Sam, you're a star! That's perfect. This has been driving me mad, glad it's such a simple/ cheap fix https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-hose-connector/48625?tc=BT1&ds_kid=92700020953274405&ds_rl=1249799&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ar34Jio2gIVTbXtCh2L_gFCEAQYAiABEgIugvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMT7tvOYqNoCFcFnGwod5zYCzg

Anyone got a cast iron roll top bath on their boat? im trying to work out what to do about the waste drain. The flange needs to be at least 70mm dia with enough thread for the thickness of the bath (prob 25mm or so) ideally it would not be a 40 or 32mm outlet as I'll be attaching it to a gulper with a 20mm fitting. I thought of buying a waste with overflow and blanking the 40mm outlet then using the 20mm overflow spur as the outlet. The overflow of the bath can then either be blanked or a hose taken from it into the engine bilge where there is an auto bilge pump just in case. Doubt I'd ever manage to over fill it though!!

Is there anyone on here with a non-hydraulic collapsible roof to their wheelhouse? I'm talking about the Dutch barge type. Ive all but dissed the design of the windows/ doors but not the roof. Would like it to be insulated, possible made in fibreglass. Don't want canvas Sny thoughts/ info/ pics would be greatly appreciated!

Yes, probe measures pipe temp and would be se correctly. Might be me but I can't find pipestats online, anyone got a link? This type look good but only in US? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=pipe+thermostat+switch&safe=off&client=safari&hl=en-gb&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwituJC-hoTYAhVKKFAKHbCnAuUQ_AUIEigC&biw=320&bih=460#imgrc=hHODElNTYn43TM:

I'm wiring in a temperature control switch to operate a pump for our central heating system run off our back boiler. just wanted to double check before I went ahead that I'm going to wire it correctly. It's clear where the +/- terminals are but would I be correct in saying the terminal marked 'relay contact' should go to the pump so that it is activated are the set temperature?

Thank you both for getting back to me on this, it sounds promising. When we moved onto this boat they had feed and return pipework all running at floor level so it required a pump running 247 when the stove was on which seemed to me mad. It is good to hear that thermosyphon in less than ideal situations can be achieved at least in part with the assistance of a pump. Certainly installing a pump on the return side triggered by a thermo switch set at 65 (or thereabouts) on the feed will not be a problem at all. I have made the coil boiler and I am keen to see what kind of heat it will generate, its a project for a bit of fun really so if it all needs to be scrapped I won't be heart broken but I would certainly like to try and get it to work if possible. Do you think if I used the length of coil in the pic ( I intended to cut it down to gunwhale height) and had the expansion pipe rising from the top of the coil and the feed dropping by say four inches to gunwhale height and then horizontal to the back cabin I might get away with it assisted by the pump or am I pushing my luck. The entire length from boiler to cabin will be insulated. However I also want to heat a towel rail in the bathroom on the return leg so we shall have to see how that goes. Bengo- very promising. Perhaps I'll just get on and install it and make adjustments if/ when required. Any recommendations on pumps? The quieter the better in my view

I'm hoping someone can help me here. The question is in two parts. I'd really appreciate it if we could limit the responses to people that have experience/ insight with that would be great as I'm already confused enough as it is!! Question 1 Our stove has a flue boiler so the hot water outlet is around gunwhale height. Therefore we do not have the normal height increase available to us that thermo syphon requires to work. However, the boiler is a copper coil of about 18" height which equates to around 32ft in total length. This is obviously quite a length of pipe that is in effect increasing in height over the course of the coil. Our is a barge and we need the first rad to be situated in the back cabin which is right at the other end of the boat to the stove. My question is, can a thermo syphon system cope with either a slight decent or horizontal for any distance and if so is there a formula/ calculation that can be made to work this out? I have spoken to people who have successfully installed thermo syphon systems with decents and horizontals but I have not been able to get an details from them. Presumably if there is enough inertia and volume in the initial head of heated water then it can over come the decent/ horizontal. Question 2 If I have to admit defeat and install it as a pumped system them does the pump need to be running the entire time the stove is on? It seems to me that it would not only be a constant drain on the batteries but also having the continuous hum of a pump working might be annoying? Or should every effort be made to install the system as a thermo syphon and then have a thermo switch that actuates a pump if the water gets sluggish at certain points ie if the water temp exceeds a pre set temperature? My last option would be to remove the log store from the stove so that it is dropped by 6", this may then give me enough room to have an acsending pipe to the back cabin without horizontals etc but it will mean taking an angle grinder to a posh stove. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. I only want to do this job once!

Ended up making this. Found some 6.5" OD CHS off cut welded it to a 1/4" flange I cut and tapped it for six M10 grub screws to hold/ centralise flue section with storm collar welded to it. Cavity can be insulated if required though practically the outer tube doesn't get hot. 5" flue internally. Takes a standard 5" flue pipe on the outside. We got a nice long length as we have a mooring, can be easily removed for cruising or shorter length fitted. Not a perfect system but much prefer it to the normal method and easily serviceable

Yep, tried yacht boat parts but they have no stock nor can they get any. Same goes for all the other online chandlers I've tried.

Thanks for that, should have added that not interested in the Alde type with ally pipe and fins. Seen eBay ones but they don't have them in the correct sizes.