Eeyore

Thanks for the photos. Looks a bit untidy/poorly installed, but as a system it has the parts you would expect. Photo one, (pipes numbered from the top in the order you mentioned them). The fitting on pipes 2 and 4 looks like bleed valves, maybe automatic types? The red handled valve is on a redundant branch, hence no effect. You could certainly rationalise the number 6 pipework. Photo three and four, interestingly the "white" pipes are connected to the main flow and return to the skin tank (keel cooler). Not wrong, but more commonly the flow is taken from below the engine thermostat; same as heater connections on a vehicle. Some boatyards won't use push fit plumbing connected to the engine cooling system; the fitting are apparently rated for the pressure, but they have seen failures.

Sorry its just a fault I have encountered - other faults are available

Just take the broken one along, pick one that's a little bigger/robust. It's just a general purpose cheapie.

Resistors usually sit across the back of the alternator warning lamps, they allow the alternator to function if the bulb fails - often left off the diagrams. The diodes are usually in a plastic sleeve or piece of heat shrink tube. The mechanical fixing of the wiring to the diodes is a bit poor, and can break the diode leads. A quick trip to Maplins and a few minutes to solder some flexible leads to the diodes should fix it. Steve (Eeyore)

Further to Wotevers post: PRV (aka "the sticky out bit") has a passing resemblance to a small radiator valve, either screwed directly into the top of the rank or on a "tee" piece in the pipe from the top connection. They can be left with an open connection or a short open pipe going into the bilge. They often have a black or red plastic cap for adjustment; make a note of its position and then wind it a bit in either direction to see if that clears the internal seat. Steve (Eeyore) Ah you posted whilst I was typing!

So you know an auto electrician with experience of working with 300 volt variable frequency 3 phase electrics; all in the same box as 230 volt 50Hz single phase? Really should be talking to Cox.

The external indicator is useful, but it's not usual to have an internal bypass valve on a fuel system ( the red bit in the second photo ). Regular servicing (filter changes) would mitigate the likelihood of the bypass opening; but would you want to risk unfiltered fuel reaching the injection pump?

Some Barrus engines have a small relay hanging off the harness part way between the engine and the control panel. The relay switches the supply to the shut down solenoid; you should be able to feel and hear it operating when the stop button is pressed. If you are lucky it's just corrosion on the socket and external parts of the relay which can be cleaned up after you unplug it. If you need to renew the relay be sure to get one with the same pin (blade) numbering; as there are two different types dispite them being physically indentical!! http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html. Shows the difference, about half way down the page. You can also use the 5 pin version as long as terminals 30 and 86 are the right way round; the extra pin is not connected to anything in the socket.

Interesting that there has been no mention low smoke zero halogen LSZH (sometimes called low smoke halogen free LSHF) cable types. Thought the boat safety scheme would have something on the subject; or have I missed it (again).

Extinguishers with an indicator are usual "stored pressue" types. Unscrewing the top will release the pressure rendering the extinguisher unservicable. There is also the risk of personal injury, and one hell of a mess to clear up. Compacted power can be prevented by regularly removing the extinguisher from its clip and giving it a good shake whilst holding it upside down. Failing that hold it upside down and tap the base with a rubber mallet.

Fair point, but wouldn't it look better if they added a note regarding superceeded standards?

Ahh, glad to see that the BSS office is keeping its self up to date ?Edited: I knew the answer but worry about the people setting the safety standards not being on the ball.

All a bit academic really; where would I find a qualified CORGI registered installer?

This might be of interest https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/pdf_archive/pdfs/product_lit/emea_brochures/LT15108-GB.pdf

What he said! 12 volt Anderson plugs are the yellow ones.

A suitable size open ended spanner would seem to be best. The hexagon on the solenoid is quite shallow, and ring spanners have a "lead" on them which means they will not grip the full width of the hexagon. Remove any excess sealant from around the old solenoid to ensure the open ended spanner gets a grip across the full width of the hexagon. Engine Plus will advise on suitable sealant for the new solenoid. Steve (Eeyore)

Have just checked my set of Halfords batteries (as per my last post on your previous topic). They seem to be behaving normally. I disconnected the charger and loaded them using every 12 volt appliance on the boat for some time with no unexpected results. They recovered quickly to better than 12.8 volts despite the freezing temperature. I have previously noted my alternator running close to 14.7 volts, which having followed your experience no longer concerns me. Maybe there is hope for the next set. Steve (Eeyore)

I still recieve notification emails for topics I'm following regardless of device in use. It might be something I opted for in "settings", but cann't remember doing it.

Following the departure of the long term incumbent about 4 years ago the cafe was taken on by a sandwich shop owner from Beeston. Their first action was to redecorate and remove approx 50% of the indoor seating, shortly followed by the arrival of a sign proclaiming it as a "bistro". Service in those early days ranged from totally ignoring customers through to "sorry, we've run out of food". Fortunately the service did improve somewhat, but never to a level where they could deal with the throughput to make the place profitable; often stopping breakfast orders 30 minutes early and turning people away. We often went in for Sunday lunch under the previous ownership, no booking, and rarely waited more than what seemed a few minutes; now its bookings only and far from speedy. Hopefully someone with appropriate catering experience can be found to revitalise it, but the price needs to be right for that to happen.

I have a pair of these batteries; they were behaving ok last time I was at the boat. I'll check them in a week or so.They are on float charge at the moment; I'll take the charger off and monitor the situation. Bit worrying as there have been several postings on this subject recently. Realy didn't want to concider the possibility of changing batteries at this time of year - ho hum

You don't really need to do anything about the over filling as the excess water will eventually gas off. One problem, as you have found, is that the capacity will have dropped as a result of dilution of the electrolye; this will eventually sort its self out. Do not remove the excess as this will permanently weaken the electrolyte. Another possible problem is that you may get some spillage as a result of the electrolyte warming up and expanding during charging; just check regularly and wipe up any spillage straight away. You will need to check the charging system as already advised.

A quick note of caution. A piece of wood, typically a hammer shaft, is less likely to cause damage when used to lever the alternator. There are a lot of aluminium alloy casting used, not just the alternator, often the front covers of the engine are alloy. Glad you have it sorted.

Edited; senior moment. Ah the joys of communicating with non engineers

Hmm, try this: You are riding a bike, and you pedal at the same rpm in the same gear regardless of terrain. I'm sure that will notice that you have to put more effort in to maintain the same rpm when going up hill. The hill represents a heavy demand, the flat a low demand and you are the engine. At some point the hill will become so steep that you are unable to turn the pedals at all; you will then fall off/dismount because the drive is a fixed mechanical arrangement; but the belt relying on friction could slip. edited to say: Ahh I see that Tony has beat me to it with a technical explanation

Which means in the OPs case that the belt has to transmit approx 3 hp to the domestic alternator pulley via a contact area of no more than 2 square inches. This assumes from earlier posts that its a Barrus Shire with one belt passing around four pulleys. Belt life on these engines varies considerably from annual, on a just in case basis; to almost as regular as oil changes. It seems likely that belt life on this particular installation is closely related to how deeply you allow the batteries to discharge between engine starts; and in this case dead batteries appear to the alternator as very discharged.