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Bright Angel

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    travel, photography, family, experiences.
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  • Boat Name
    Bright Angel
  • Boat Location
    Market Drayton, for now

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  1. Hi Ezshay. sorry for delayed reply but not on boat since October so tend not to look at forum too often. Glad to report that I,m not feeling "sheepish", and did find that having cleaned out the pump filter and finally got rid of a few airlocks following long time with system drained down, the problem dissapeared. My water system does not have an accumulator so slight run on has always been present. Thanks for the advice on battery voltage Tony, I will monitor it more carefully. Good to learn that a pump "problem" is not always the pump.
  2. Thanks for comments about batteries. I have been "plugged in" at a marina since fitting the new batteries then used either my 230/240v Electrolux power pack or my 12v engine mounted alternator to top whilst cruising. I also have 28Watts of victron solar connected to the battery bank via a victron controller. I use the 501 meter that is linked to my Victron Multi inverter charger, to monitor percentage charge and try not to let this drop below 50%. What amongst all this attention might I have done to Knacker my batteries. If they are, then what proof will I need to claim under the 3 year guarantee that they came with ? Any advice or similar experiences appreciated.
  3. Thanks David. I have come to the conclusion that due to either wear or gunge in the pump body it is now adversely affected by low voltage, which makes it run on. My batteries are only 2 years old and by no means have had continuous usage over that time. We have moored up for a few weeks to come home but when I return to drain down etc I intend to take the pump off and clean it out. Thanks for the reply.
  4. Thanks for that but no silicone used at all. I have used a rubber sealing strip so I could remove the lid more easily in future.
  5. I am going to disconnect the pump and blow back through the pipe from the tank. I will also blow through the pump and see what, if anything, comes out. Happy days !!
  6. Thanks WotEver. Batteries 2 years old and monitored. Have solar so rarely fall below 12 v.
  7. Since coating my fresh water tank with potable bitumen I have a brown contamination in the water. I have filled and emptied the tank many times and still have a residual brown tinge and an earthy smell especially from the hot side. I collected a sample and left it to settle, see picture. From an existing topic on water tank coating someone suggested an algae had formed. I put a water sterilizing tablet in the glass of sludge and it just made the sludge float. I am draining the tank down soon for winter. Can anyone suggest what I should do to sterilize the whole system.
  8. I have a jabsco par-max 2.9 25 psi automatic fresh water pump, supplying all my hot and cold water requirements. In the last few days it will not shut down after running a tap. Have checked for leaks and airlocks and found none. Today it ran on for 5 minutes and whilst looking for clues noticed a "low volts" red light on my victron inverter. Started the engine and the pump stopped! Waited awhile and ran some electrical things until low voltage light came on and yes pump pressure switch did not cut flow. Ran engine, pump stopped. Measured batteries and got 11.8 v. This has never happened before and comes following a sludge problem with my fresh water tank after re-coating it. Can anyone shed any light on why the pressure switch has started to not work at a lowish voltage whilst all my other "low volts" indicators, fridge, dim lights etc are all ok ? Is there an adjustment on the pressure switch ? Should I remove the pump and flush it out ? I have cleaned the crap out of the mesh filter between the tank and the pump. Have also raised a topic about cold water sterilisation. Thanks
  9. Good idea but our filler is on the side of the bow and fills via a curved tube. I do need to make my stick more buoyant though (no rude remarks please) and I am looking for some air filled thing that is only 10mm diameter !! Probably. I have already made a spare, but forgot where I put it !
  10. Having just opened, drained, re-painted and resealed my integral fresh water tank I took the opportunity to fit a "water gauge" that I dreamt up a few years ago, and it works. I was fed up with filling up until water overflowed and not knowing how much was left apart from how wide the tide line on the hull was ! It may not be a new idea and if it isn't, I apologise in advance. I thought I would share it anyway. I drilled a hole in the well deck, towards one side, straight into the top of the tank, and fitted a nylon skin fitting with a 15mm hole through it. Inside the tank I fitted an aluminum tube, about 20 mm bore (from an old TV Ariel tube) which sits about 50mm above the floor of the tank. The tube is about 400mm long and split and clamped at the top to fit the outside of the tank fitting, using a stainless steel jubilee clip. I then cut a 10mm diam' rod from wooden doweling, which drops into the bore of the skin fitting and down the tube, so about 6 inches sticks up when the end is resting on the floor of the tank. I marked a line on the stick to show "empty" and once filled with water, to about 3 inches from the top, marked another line to show "full". Now I just drop the rod into the tank when filling and stop when the "full" mark appears. I also found a small rubber caravan sink plug that seals the skin fitting when not in use. If I have missed anything just ask.
  11. It was the drinking water supply in the boatyard then topped up with water from CART water points. Would still be interested to find out what the brown stuff is.
  12. In answer to a few questions, Yes I phoned the manufacturers of the rust converted and they said that it was recommended for water tanks. No I didn't put any water into the tank between coats and I was in a covered dry dock so no rainwater got in. Yes I did drain the calorifier and all the pipes. Also I did prepare as well as I could. I first scraped out all the rusty sludge and removed it with a spade! I then pressure washed all surfaces exposing bright silver steel under the rust bubbles. I then wire brushed and re pressure washed. Finally hoovered out all the residues and water and then "blew" the tank dry with my hoover/blower. Left it overnight and did the rust coating before the bitumen. Drained it out today using a spare bilge pump and noted a slimy brown coating on the baseplate, not rust residue. Cleaned it out with a soft broom and hoovered it dry. Added a dose of steriliser tablets, cleaned out the pump filter and had supper! Attached is the picture of the brown sludge in the cold water from last night. Any suggestions as to what it might be ?
  13. It was at least 7 days before I filled it finally and it was very warm. What do you think the brown suspension is ? I ran 2 glasses of water tonight, one from the hot and one from the cold. Both had a brown tinge but the cold fill also had foam around the top. Any ideas ?
  14. Yes, about 2 days between each coat and the 2ft x 2ft cover was open all the time. I sucked out the last of the water each time with the wet and dry vac and blew it dry using the cleaners blower. Some before, during and after photos. When I filled it for the second time I even let it overflow into the well deck and out of the weep holes to disburse the "oily" film on the top.
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