Jump to content

Bright Angel

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    83

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Bright Angel

  1. Bright Angel
    Hi Ezshay. sorry for delayed reply but not on boat since October so tend not to look at forum too often. Glad to report that I,m not feeling "sheepish", and did find that having cleaned out the pump filter and finally got rid of a few airlocks following long time with system drained down, the problem dissapeared. My water system does not have an accumulator so slight run on has always been present. Thanks for the advice on battery voltage Tony, I will monitor it more carefully. Good to learn that a pump "problem" is not always the pump.
  2. Bright Angel
    Thanks for comments about batteries. I have been "plugged in" at a marina since fitting the new batteries then used either my 230/240v Electrolux power pack or my 12v engine mounted alternator to top whilst cruising. I also have 28Watts of victron solar connected to the battery bank via a victron controller. I use the 501 meter that is linked to my Victron Multi inverter charger, to monitor percentage charge and try not to let this drop below 50%. What amongst all this attention might I have done to Knacker my batteries. If they are, then what proof will I need to claim under the 3 year guarantee that they came with ? Any advice or similar experiences appreciated.
  3. Bright Angel
    Thanks David. I have come to the conclusion that due to either wear or gunge in the pump body it is now adversely affected by low voltage, which makes it run on. My batteries are only 2 years old and by no means have had continuous usage over that time. We have moored up for a few weeks to come home but when I return to drain down etc I intend to take the pump off and clean it out. Thanks for the reply.
  4. Bright Angel
    Thanks for that but no silicone used at all. I have used a rubber sealing strip so I could remove the lid more easily in future.
  5. Bright Angel
    I am going to disconnect the pump and blow back through the pipe from the tank. I will also blow through the pump and see what, if anything, comes out. Happy days !!
  6. Bright Angel
    Thanks WotEver. Batteries 2 years old and monitored. Have solar so rarely fall below 12 v.
  7. Bright Angel
    Since coating my fresh water tank with potable bitumen I have a brown contamination in the water. I have filled and emptied the tank many times and still have a residual brown tinge and an earthy smell especially from the hot side. I collected a sample and left it to settle, see picture. From an existing topic on water tank coating someone suggested an algae had formed. I put a water sterilizing tablet in the glass of sludge and it just made the sludge float. I am draining the tank down soon for winter. Can anyone suggest what I should do to sterilize the whole system.
  8. Bright Angel
    I have a jabsco par-max 2.9 25 psi automatic fresh water pump, supplying all my hot and cold water requirements. In the last few days it will not shut down after running a tap. Have checked for leaks and airlocks and found none. Today it ran on for 5 minutes and whilst looking for clues noticed a "low volts" red light on my victron inverter. Started the engine and the pump stopped! Waited awhile and ran some electrical things until low voltage light came on and yes pump pressure switch did not cut flow. Ran engine, pump stopped. Measured batteries and got 11.8 v. This has never happened before and comes following a sludge problem with my fresh water tank after re-coating it. Can anyone shed any light on why the pressure switch has started to not work at a lowish voltage whilst all my other "low volts" indicators, fridge, dim lights etc are all ok ? Is there an adjustment on the pressure switch ? Should I remove the pump and flush it out ? I have cleaned the crap out of the mesh filter between the tank and the pump. Have also raised a topic about cold water sterilisation. Thanks
  9. Bright Angel
    I Like it
  10. Bright Angel
    Good idea but our filler is on the side of the bow and fills via a curved tube. I do need to make my stick more buoyant though (no rude remarks please) and I am looking for some air filled thing that is only 10mm diameter !! Probably. I have already made a spare, but forgot where I put it !
  11. Bright Angel
    Having just opened, drained, re-painted and resealed my integral fresh water tank I took the opportunity to fit a "water gauge" that I dreamt up a few years ago, and it works. I was fed up with filling up until water overflowed and not knowing how much was left apart from how wide the tide line on the hull was ! It may not be a new idea and if it isn't, I apologise in advance. I thought I would share it anyway. I drilled a hole in the well deck, towards one side, straight into the top of the tank, and fitted a nylon skin fitting with a 15mm hole through it. Inside the tank I fitted an aluminum tube, about 20 mm bore (from an old TV Ariel tube) which sits about 50mm above the floor of the tank. The tube is about 400mm long and split and clamped at the top to fit the outside of the tank fitting, using a stainless steel jubilee clip. I then cut a 10mm diam' rod from wooden doweling, which drops into the bore of the skin fitting and down the tube, so about 6 inches sticks up when the end is resting on the floor of the tank. I marked a line on the stick to show "empty" and once filled with water, to about 3 inches from the top, marked another line to show "full". Now I just drop the rod into the tank when filling and stop when the "full" mark appears. I also found a small rubber caravan sink plug that seals the skin fitting when not in use. If I have missed anything just ask.
  12. Bright Angel
    It was the drinking water supply in the boatyard then topped up with water from CART water points. Would still be interested to find out what the brown stuff is.
  13. Bright Angel
    In answer to a few questions, Yes I phoned the manufacturers of the rust converted and they said that it was recommended for water tanks. No I didn't put any water into the tank between coats and I was in a covered dry dock so no rainwater got in. Yes I did drain the calorifier and all the pipes. Also I did prepare as well as I could. I first scraped out all the rusty sludge and removed it with a spade! I then pressure washed all surfaces exposing bright silver steel under the rust bubbles. I then wire brushed and re pressure washed. Finally hoovered out all the residues and water and then "blew" the tank dry with my hoover/blower. Left it overnight and did the rust coating before the bitumen. Drained it out today using a spare bilge pump and noted a slimy brown coating on the baseplate, not rust residue. Cleaned it out with a soft broom and hoovered it dry. Added a dose of steriliser tablets, cleaned out the pump filter and had supper! Attached is the picture of the brown sludge in the cold water from last night. Any suggestions as to what it might be ?
  14. Bright Angel
    It was at least 7 days before I filled it finally and it was very warm. What do you think the brown suspension is ? I ran 2 glasses of water tonight, one from the hot and one from the cold. Both had a brown tinge but the cold fill also had foam around the top. Any ideas ?
  15. Bright Angel
    Yes, about 2 days between each coat and the 2ft x 2ft cover was open all the time. I sucked out the last of the water each time with the wet and dry vac and blew it dry using the cleaners blower. Some before, during and after photos. When I filled it for the second time I even let it overflow into the well deck and out of the weep holes to disburse the "oily" film on the top.
  16. Bright Angel
    Hi all, sorry to butt in but someone might be able to help me out. After 8 years of having a rusty integral water tank with all sorths of wierd and wonderfull "ferrous" flowers growing in it, I finally bit the bullet, cleaned it out thouroughly, coated it with fertan and then applied 3 good coats of Black Jack "potable" bitumen. Filled it twice and drained it completely both times. Filled it again and got clean water. Have now just come back after 3 weeks away and the water has a distinct brown tinge with what looks like some organic material suspended in it, and it smells. I am draining it again tomorrow. Should I use any bleach or similar to flush it out? What is the brown stuff, anyway. My water looked and smelt much better before I fiddled with it. Any help/advice appreciated.
  17. Bright Angel
    Yes, get to Liverpool if you can. It's a great trip and excellent moorings in the heart of the city.
  18. Bright Angel

    Never fail.......succeed or learn !

  19. Bright Angel
    Hi all thanks for all the advice &, as usual, some extra information !!! that I didn't know that I didn't know ! I am in the middle of repainting the boat so cut a 4x2 hole in the back of the cabin and went out and bought a proper box with the "male" socket mounted inside. Job done. I noticed someone advised making a cover, and for many years I had used a sandwich box with a clip on lid. I took the socket off the back of the boat, stuck the lid on to the outside with a hole for the cable, screwed the socket back on and cut a 2 inch hole in one side of the box to take the plug and then just clipped the box onto the lid. They lasted a couple of years each until the plastic became brittle and the first person to knock into it, smashed the box. Thanks again.........just re painted the inside of my water tank....worst job ever !!
  20. Bright Angel
    Questions ! My 16 amp mains hook up socket is "male" and facing down at 45 degrees. The plug on the cable is "female" with a shroud, which means that moisture (rain) will run down the outside of the socket and into the plug ! Someone told me that this is the wrong way round and that the socket should be female and the plug male, which make no sense from a safety point of view! What is the correct configuration ? Is it a BSS topic and why does the design appear to allow water into the system ? Someone at a caravan shop suggested mounting the socket facing up so the water runs over the shroud on the plug but I have never seen it this way up. Any advice appreciated.
  21. Bright Angel
    Just about to decide how to coat the inside of my integral steel water tank. Have cleaned out all the rust bubbles with a pressure washer and treated all the surfaces with Fertan. Have been led to Armourguard PW and trying to work out the quantity and tin size to mix just enough to get on before it cures (3 x 1 litre pots seems favourite at present). Does anyone have any experience with Armouguard PW ? Do I need to use their pfrimer or will the Fertan rust treatment suffice ? Have also spoken to Antel Paints who have a solvent free 2 pack epoxy coating available. Again has anyone out there used it ? Any advice appreciated. Thanks
  22. Bright Angel
    I have been to Truck parts suppliers all over the UK and have always matched oil filters, fuel filters, air filters, belts etc etc for a fraction of the cost from Chandlers. Out of interest I have also bought Thetford cassette spares from a camping shop at much lower price than the chandlers. Same applies to rope, cleats and chain, the list goes on. Shop around
  23. Bright Angel
    Thank you everybody especially chewbakka who provided the blow by blow account on how to proceed. I will now lift the lid, evict anything that is still alive, pump out the water, remove the debris and rust, coat with Vactan as the primer and Armourguard PW as the topcoat. Thank You
  24. Bright Angel
    Thank you everybody, some really useful information about Triumph Spitfires and accidents on the Bow Flyover !!!! As for the Barrus it turned out to be a blown fuse in the vicinity of the starter battery. Come to think of it the Spitfire had a fuse in it somewhere and if it blew then both cannons jammed and you flew back to base as soon as you could. Hope this is of some use !!
  25. Bright Angel
    Today the stop button on my Barrus Shires engine stopped working for no apparent reason. After trying all the usual stuff I located the fuel pump solenoid and pressed the button on the end to stop the engine. Any ideas as to what caused this ? Have looked at the back of the panel and all wires attached and OK. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.