hider

Over filling by a litre will not cause the engine to burn oil, blue smoke, unless it is well worn anyway. I just chuck in 5ltrs of 20 50 and its fine. Is the smoke blue, black or white? If black either the engine is overloaded due to a prop full of washing or the prop is too big or its time to get the pump recalibrated and the injectors serviced. Could be too far advanced on the pump. If white, you will be well down on power, with either misfiring due to low compression or retarded pump timing. Its an old design indirect injection engine, not as clean as new ones and folk used to expect diesels to smoke back then.

Where are you Wergie?

Changed horses at both ends?? Seahorses?

If these are BSP threaded fittings, the pipe size is the internal diameter not the external. 3 1/4" OD would be possibly 2 1/2 " BSP. "

And the name of the hire company who expect hiring pensioners to relocate a rudder is?

Stand on deck. Pull it up, put it in the position that it normally is. Drop it into the cup repeat till you get it right. If you fail, a torch in a plastic bag down the weed hatch, locate the cup and get someone to guide the rudder into it.

It was the same with the Beta cocooned engine with a trolling valve to alter the speed, it ran at 1500 rpm I believe, constantly.

Judging by the neglect many gearboxes suffer, I would not worry about extended oil changes. My PRMs get a change on the manufacturers recommended intervals when new, then annually with a yearly average of 400 to 500 hours. The magnetic drain plug will tell you a lot which is why I always drain the box this way. I have drained old PRM boxes which have not seen attention for many years, where the oil has come out looking like blacking, they work just fine. Water contamination is more serious than dirty oil, particularly in PRM160 boxes.

Well, you will buy these far eastern motors.

They are just a difficult item to remove, as you say working them in and out is the easiest way. They come out easier with the head warm I have found, and use a deep socket to turn them without levering sideways.

Ha Ha Ha! just replace the oxygen with CO2, problem solved. I would sooner weld on a full tank of fuel rather than an empty one. Introducing water it may be difficult to get it completely removed afterwards When we were allowed to solder repair lorry diesel tanks (now banned) they had to have water run through for hours or even days otherwise they went bang when the torch went near them.

Unless you are a registered gas safe engineer, if I tell you what is wrong I will have to kill you. Suffice it to say the voltage generated by the thermocouple is tiny and if the contact with the solenoid in the gas valve is not perfect or the pilot flame not impinging on the thermocouple tip correctly, it will do what you describe.

Gearbox has an oil cooler as well? Or engine oil cooler? Gearbox oil should not be black. engine oil will be.

Post 14. done it.

marinesparesuk, on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hurth-hbw-100-2-to-1-Marine-GearboxFully-refurbished/123753006039?hash=item1cd04103d7:g:r7gAAOSw6GJciOCu Dealt with them before, very efficient and not expensive. This recon says new clutches, they alone are £375, looks good value.

Its not a good idea, it breaches the tank, retest required and it is almost impossible to prevent fuel oozing out afterwards. That's why rudder top bearings are bolted to a plate that is welded to the tank top.

Welded on lots of tanks but only diesel never with petrol. Better if its full, less air space for gasses. The tank is not sealed, it has the breather. If you don't penetrate the tank its not so bad but I always fill the tank with carbon dioxide from a fire extinguisher first for safety. Never had one light up or go bang. Else I would not be typing here!

Is it possible?

Put a bolt in from underneath with Araldite or Loctite and the nut on the top.

With 4 children, presumably not all at the same school, how are you going to comply with the license requirement for continuous cruising by moving a reasonable distance every 14 days and progressing around the canal system rather than backwards and forwards over and over? How are you going to be employed within the same restriction? I think you need to reconsider.

Remove with a wet vac after undoing hoses, suck on both tank connections. Use the red antifreeze, its non-toxic and lasts longer than blue glycol. usually at least 25% antifreeze, 1:3 with water, mix it with water before pouring it in.

Name and shame! I'm going to start, just had a Braunston boat plane past leaving a 2 foot wave behind. We are well tied but went up and down for a while, can do nothing about that. All smart paint and no consideration.

So what's the difference between that and millions of engines with alloy parts? Or is it crappy alloy they use in their heat exchanger? Wouldn't want one if its that fickle.

Please, why new plastic pipes? What's wrong with copper?

Best way is not the amount of drag but go-no go. The correct feeler should go in the gap, the next size up, say 1 thou, ( 0.02mm ) more should not go in. Too slack = noise and wear and shortens the scavenge time leading to more emissions of unburnt fuel. Too tight = risk of valve and seat burning and loss of compression.