barrowpete

The engine has a lift pump and is self priming except for this to work I usually need to release air out of both filters thus the need for the full fuel tank. I bleed my filters thus first release the nut at the in going side of my water trap till fuel flows then tighten it move to the out going side then stand on my head and do the ingoing side of the lister filter then the outgoing side then I manually am able to use the lift pump till fuel can be heard going back into the tank

Looks like dirty fuel. I changed the water filter at Alrewas on our way home and although I've taken small amounts of water out each day engine has run fine. Would have changed the small lister filter as well but as the system is gravity fed the things a pig. Last time the system wouldn't bleed until I put an extra 100 litres of fuel in not something I could do in the middle of nowhere. Soon be home and planning a tank clean and full filter change. I will remember from now on to change fuel filters at start of year not wait the 500 hours lister manual says. The engine has a lift pump and is self priming except for this to work I usually need to release air out of both filters thus the need for the full fuel tank.

Looks like dirty fuel. I changed the water filter at Alrewas on our way home and although I've taken small amounts of water out each day engine has run fine. Would have changed the small lister filter as well but as the system is gravity fed the things a pig. Last time the system wouldn't bleed until I put an extra 100 litres of fuel in not something I could do in the middle of nowhere. Soon be home and planning a tank clean and full filter change. I will remember from now on to change fuel filters at start of year not wait the 500 hours lister manual says.

Traveled from little haywood to Rugeley about 3 miles prop stern tube and stern gland all cool to touch

Thanks everyone I've a list of things to check now it's a wait until tomorrow job now will report back

I have been down the weed hatch on several occasions and the prop turns fine through 360 degrees while the boat is in neutral. Is that a good indicator of alinement?

The prop shafts and sturn tube are new and the engine was aliened last year nothing seams to have moved. The engine starts with a little reluctance after stalling so it does feel like fuel starvation then runs quite well for a time if not under pressure Will try Tony's idea about alinement I know the "engineers" had issues as it's only 32 foot boat with very little space

The water trap I mentioned is between the tank and the lister fuel filter the filter was replaced approximately 133 hours running ago as (as was the lister fuel filter). The spots of water slightly yellow water are in the diesel when you open the water trap among fresh looking red diesel but they are only spots

My lister has always worked fine until this month, it seems to dislike heavy loads stalling many times around Stratford bridge 100 area where there is little depth and today in a gusting wind (29 knots by the met app) weed hatch clear. Slight amount of water removed from water fuel filter spots only but light yellow. I use fuel set in the diesel

Thanks again everyone I have just had the BSS guy and the flue worked great passed a smoke test ( the morco water heater failed still a yellow flame and I got a don't use slapped on it, but after fitting a new burner the best blue flame I've ever had out of the beast appeared)

Think it would have been the operating efficiently (yellow flame poor combustion) , which by this is advisable. As a ex BT guy who was used to checking my guys could gas test and ensuring they knew the three types we encountered. Especially as we had an airport on our patch where mox testing was an issue, I may be a little bit paranoid. The morco flue top is smaller diameter than the mushroom the top of which unscrews easily think I can get away with a 110 to 100 flu reducer which should fit over the inner of the mushroom and then take the morco flu top. Just need to modify the reducer slightly so the flue is vertical not at some silly angle and the whole new section can be removed for tight bridges tunnels etc and the mushroom top re inserted for water protection.

Thanks everybody great help an tons of ideas. From a safety point of view I've always used two centre ropes but even with only mushrooms you can still get them tied up if your as clumsy as me., that was my real fear. We do tend to do long distances in a short time which bucks the canal ideal, but commitments and life always seems to get in the way, there is so much to see!

thanks I'm going to try a few things least its nice to know I'm not the only one. The bit about taking it off for Froghall is one of my worries as we plan to do that soon.

I'm not trying to beet the regs but as with all things on an old boat things are not easy. The surveyors seemed to think all I needed to do was to remove the mushroom top an fit the flue. They do not understand the difference in diameter of a flue terminal and the mushroom the slope of the roof etc. Has anyone had this work done and what are the results?

I have a morco db61 water heater on my 1991 narrow boat from the pictures right from its original build it has had a water heater flued through a mushroom. Although this does not set off either of the two mox detectors on the boat resent surveys have rejected this type of flue (there is a slight yellowing of flame on max burn). They (the surveyors) have all suggested that all it needs is a morco marine flue top. Any hints on issues with this retro fit, I can see that the dam thing will continually get caught in the centre rope which due to the boat being a light 32 footer I use at every lock.