wergie

Johnson make a submersible bilge pump that can be operated with a solid state level detection device, so no moving parts, but they ain't a cheap option

As a matter of interest if anyone on here needs a copper Lister oil box I have one that's taking up space...

Do you have a silencer fitted into your exhaust?

Hi Andy, I'm not sure what size my prop is but I've deduced through the final law of engineering i.e 'when all else fails,read the manufacturers instructions', that having eliminated everything else, all that's left is that my prop is too large.. The old engine, a 1937, 16hp Lister CE had a maahoosive flywheel and generated a huge amount of torque,so was able to turn a big prop. The Sabb, although twice as powerful doesn't have such a large flywheel so isn't as torquey, and as a consequence is a bit smokey...its a bit like trying to drive off in third gear... all good fun though... It does make a lovely noise though... also, it's fitted in a 57' narrowboat...

If you download the manual for your engine you'll find that the maximum prop size is 20 x 16,so if you use your current prop you'll be a little underpropped. I have the same engine with a PRM 2-1 box but I need to fit a smaller prop as my engine is overpropped at the moment and is a little smoky . I was planning to fit a smaller prop the week before last but I'm under house arrest at the moment so it will have to wait. If you want a copy of the manual PM me and I'll send it to you. Steve

If you look on youtube for Al's Kitchen he shows you how to make the base gravy as used in British Indian restaurants. He makes it in bulk and uses it as required. He also has lots of recipes for different styles of curry as well. Have fun peeling those onions...

Hi all, I've recently brought one of these engines from Marine Enterprises and I'm very happy so far. I brought it as a replacement for a knackered Lister CE . The engine went to Paul Redshaw for some prep work before installation. He changed the gearbox for my existing PRM , fitted new fuel pipework, replaced the air filter and alternator and then installed it with Roger Farrington at Braunston boats doing the steel work, and they did a very good job. Its worth remembering that these engines are designed for ships lifeboats, and as such they would not need to to run for long periods, as opposed to the Sabb 2g series. To this end these engines are direct injection units, and the injector service interval is only 200 running hours. Also, the owners manual recommends the use of 'road grade diesel'. I've just had my injectors rebuilt and will be refitting them this weekend after my 6 week summer cruise. There is a series of 4 videos on youtube focused on stripping down the cylinder heads and overhauling a 2j engine which you might find helpful. So, on the whole I'm very pleased with my new old engine, I lost count of the number of people who admired the noise it was making during the summer and I'm hoping to get much more good service from it. Steve

Not a bush as such, I need a piece of tube about 8 inches long, 31/4 id at one end, 3''od at the other.

I'm in London but my boat lives in Warwick

OK chaps, thanks for your prompt replies and input. Now, my boss has a 2 inch BSP thread on the underside, which the engine exhaust screws into. The outside part is not threaded at all, its the same as a solid fuel stove flue in that respect, the flue stack should just sit on the boss. The boss itself is 65mm high .

OK you lot, listen up and pay attention at the back there. I have a problem with my engine exhaust stack, or rather the lack of one. What I have got is a 3 and a 1/4 inch (82mm) OD cast iron boss on my engine room roof and what I would like is a hinged foldy down exhaust stack to fit on said boss. Now, I can get a 3inch hinge from Tony Redshaw, so what I really need is a 31/4'' to 3'' reducer, or failing that some 31/4 OD steel tube, though it appears to be easier to find unicorn poo. Has anyone else had this problem and does anyone know why a 3 1/4'' boss was ever invented.....I'm sure theres a special place in Hades for the people behind it.. Over to you.. Steve

OK you lot, pay attention please.. I'm about to replace my rather knackered old engine with something a little more powerful. My current engine is rated at 16 hp, and has a vertical skin tank has been sized accordingly. It's replacement will be 30hp, hence the need for some additional cooling. Now, my cunning plan is to build a horizontal keel tank in the drip tray under the engine. The tray is about 6' x 2', so there's plenty of area, but what I need to know is Will It Work. Opinions so far seem to be divided... If anyone has any experience of horizontal cooling tanks, if they work and how they are baffled internally I would be delighted to hear from you. Steve

Hi Dave Why do you want a bubble tester and a test T, you don't need both. Also, I doubt you can get a 10mm test T I would use 3/8 tube rather than 10mm as it has greater wall thickness, and Wade fittings, more expensive but much more better. Hope this helps, Steve

You could also install a Thermostatic control valve which will shut down the heating water to the calorfier when it gets hot, then you will get full flow to your radiators. Honeywell manufacture these valves, in both 2 and 3 port models.