Boater Sam

You may need to prime the Whale pump by putting the hose in the cut first. My little 12v electric diaphragm pump works just fine, but then it is American, pulls an 80 gallon tank out in 15 minutes through 27 metres of layflat hose to our septic tank.

Most likely cause is a lack of sufficient electrical power. Low voltage due to bad connections, old battery or insufficient charging. Does it work with the engine running?

The latter, CRT deal with the farmer.

Did all this 11 years ago, its fraught with difficulties. There is a phrase oft repeated by CRT after 1998 " there will be no new linear moorings allowed "

Does Poste Restante work? Bank may take your mail for a fee. Or a marina? PO box is not accepted by banks, insurance, driving licence (DVLC) etc. Can you get a ghost mooring address that you use as a winter mooring?

How are you reading the engine max revs? Is rev counter accurate?

Quote " has cracks all around the collar where it joins the top of the stove" so its the stove top collar. Never seen a roof collar crack, suppose there is always a first time though.

What engine? Some are more tolerant of bad fuel. But that looks to be all water and rust. Definitely dump it.

Buy a new collar but don't use fire cement, it makes them crack. Use this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Envirograf-Silicone-Sealant-Heat-Proof-Only-Stove-High-Temperature-1250c-Black/232556810050?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Pack with a piece of fire rope first.

It would get surely very confusing to have to go back and re-read an edited old post. Is the complication worth the alteration? When I am in error I re-post an apology and correction, seems to be OK with everyone.

Degrease it first with white spirit.

But if you don't get on with your greyhound you can't run away from it.

All because the LadyG loves Milk Tray. Sorry I mentioned anything now, I'm out of here, got my coat.

Cast off and failed police dogs and greyhounds are hard to rehome, you may get a more sympathetic reception. Many dogs homes do not accept boaters.

A dose of phosphoric acid, like Jenolite, may assist in separating the stud from the inner bush given a bit of time. There was a time when we used battery acid but its a bit difficult to get rid of.

No, you are correct. Whale confused, that's why they swim up the Thames.

The Shroppie shelf needs wheels, big ones sometimes, 14" alloys with 195-60-14 tyres.

Fair comment, I've not had many Listers on the rack. Most of my diesels were high speed road engines and pumps. I wonder if sometimes a slightly bent rod is missed and the motor still runs OK, depends which way it bends I suppose. Its amazing what an engine will run with. We had a Hillman Hunter driven back to the UK from Saudi once that had a hardwood piston fitted in Morocco. Beautiful bit of machining, not sure what wood, no rings but it ran.

BMC engines have a habit of throwing the combustion top hats in bits into the pistons. The metal chunks, around 3 or 4 mm, embed in the ally pistons. If you knock them out, they run fine providing the piston edges are not crushed to grab the top ring. When the foreign object gets trapped between the piston and the valve or head, the con rod is very near top dead center, straight up off the crank pin and resists bending end on. The piston is soft, the valve and push rod will bend, absorbing a lot of the shock. I used to get diesel engines in with cam belts gone at high speeds on the motorways, bent valves and overhead camshafts smashed, knocked right through the bearing caps, sheared off studs, the works, but seldom a bent rod or crank.

Preferably before you get any closer to central London where you will have problems getting a professional to attend.

Unlikely to have bent the rod unless it was a big bolt. Check push rod on damaged valve for bend. Find where the bolt came from, there could be another just waiting to drop in....................... If the piston is not holed, it could well still be OK. Engine is tough with a capital T

Used cheap varnish, not the water based rubbish, thinned slightly so it soaks. Stops any discolouration if you get any damp behind the lining.

But the bottom bearing cup is welded to the skeg, its an out of water job to replace that. The end of the rudder shaft that sits in the cup will be worn but nowhere near as much as the cup will be. I re-engineer bottom bearings with machined stainless steel cup and peg with phosphor bronze bearing between; and the other way up, i.e. the peg is on the skeg, the cup is on the rudder, The idea is that the sediment that causes the wear washes out rather than sitting in the bottom cup. £170 + fitting. The alternative is a nylon bearing but they tend to go stiff as the nylon absorbs water and then fail as they rip apart.