Ex Brummie

All R.A.F. passenger aircraft had backward facing seats. Makes sense when you think about it.

The answer must be that they are not sign posts, but mile markers. Think about milestones on roads rather than road signs.

You will notice I referred to Bituminous Black Paint. This is significantly different to Bitumen or Bitumastic.

The regular use was 'Black Jack' which was odourless and tasteless. This is still available, along with other Black Bituminous Paint, which was not Bitumastic, and used to be certified for water tanks. Most manufacturers (Evo Stik was one) dropped the recommendation when certification became mandatory under E.U. Regulation about 8-9 years ago(?). Mine was blacked with Black Jack 2 months ago, and has no taste or smell after curing for 2 weeks.

Bringing my boat back from the boatyard after survey 2 weeks ago, I had one accompany me for a mile or so. I suppose it was happy to see if I disturbed any food in the very cold water.

If there is sufficient insulation, then the inside of the boat will stay cool in summer and warm in winter. I have2" of polystyrene in the roof, with only 1" on the sides. With the 1/2" lining, outside temperature is not a factor I need to consider.

Just had a survey done by Ricky Tropman, 07887 836754. He is East Midlands based, but travels. He is on the BSS list, and also GreatHaywood and Whilton Marinas websites.

The Titan at screwfix is cheaper and more compact.

If you ever had cause to phonethem, guess how they answered the phone!!!!!!!!!

Just been craned out for survey/blacking. £350 was for craning out and back. No charge for time on bank.

If this is where I think it is on the Shroppie at Brewood, then the natural movement of the water could well mean the boat in the picture is to blame. There seems to be a clear patch at the bow, and as this boat will have a 'through bilge' without bulkheads, there is plenty of rain catchment area.

Every Grant oil boiler comes with 2.5 bar PRV.

It was a new shell with engine when I bought it 30 years ago. The condition of any boat is not what the OP was concerned about. He worries about ownership and validity of sale. Basically, the only purchase you can make with any level of certainty is a house, where the Land Registry has the details you need, (at least most of the time; there have been exceptions) You also have recourse through your solicitor/conveyancer. Most brokers terms I have seen abrogate this responsibility. In short terms, I would think it is as difficult for another party to prove that you have their boat once you have bought it. As with many things, possession is 9 points of the law.

Just be careful. Look carefully at the dosage instructions. Overdosing can cause more problems than not dosing at all.

How many sheaves of paperwork does anyone have who is not anally retentive? If I had to prove ownership of my boat, I would be hard put to find much, maybe a couple of licence reminders. As I do most of my own servicing and maintenance, I don't bother with any bills for lift out etc.. Then again, when I bought my present boat, it was at the yard it was built, and I knew where the seller lived.

I can see a situation where the photocell can have an effect on the O.P's problem. The Riello RDB burner photocell is infamous for keeping a burner in prepurge where the uninitiated think the boiler is running. if DHW stat is in demand, then a purging burner will never satisfy it, and the CH pump will not run. Obviously, if the cell problem is intermittent, its full effect is not apparent to an inexperienced individual.

I had this 2 years ago, on a Perkins 4108M. Finally nailed it down to a leaking flexi hose on the inlet to the pump. As it was sucking air, there was no telltale fuel leak except when I caught it just as it cut out. I was able to bleed and prime it, but when running it sucked some air, which eventually rose and air locked the agglomerator.

If piped up as a convential 2 pipe system, just close off the valves on the leaking radiator and use as normal.

Sam has it right. When fitting these filters, or any that require an O ring separate to the element, they do not need to be cranked up tight. The picture you have posted of the o ring shows it has been distorted by pressure. A tip for the future is to apply a little grease to the O ring and place it in position on the filter. Loosely assemble the unit, then hold the filter in place and tighten up the screw hand tight whilst keeping the filter in place with your other hand. Finally tighten up the screw, but do not overtighten. This leaves you room to tighten a little further if it leaks. If another 1 - 1 1/2 turns on the screw does not cure a leak, disassemble and try again. Practice makes perfect. I probably change 5 filters a week in my day job that have the potential to leak like yours.

It costs as much as you can afford. If your budget is tight, you do without some things you may like. If you are on the very bottom, you do things that only need doing. If you're flush, you get the best paint job, latest charger/inverter/huge battery bank to create your floating bespoke home. If really rich, you buy a Hudson, complete with butler to attend your every need.

" I've parked here for lunch in this layby and don't see why I have to get out!!!! "

Maybe it is my rudder, but I don't think so, but if I turn it full one way, then I see the prop pushing water past the short end. I can't see that an articulated rudder would affect that. I find the optimum turning circle is obtained at about 45 degrees.

Mike, Not a storage combi as such, but all oil combi's have a slave tank,(or use the boiler itself as a slave). If there is a dicky sensor, turning off the appliance ( and hence the DHW pump) can let the latent heat build up sufficiently to tip the balance, or even shock a poor connection into life. All oil combi's give priority to DHW demand, and this includes heating up a slave tank. Some have a fixed DHW stat that you cannot easily override, which makes testing awkward after servicing.