BWM

As others have suggested above, having a good welder insert a plate would be the best solution. If you end up using a filler, the best available is a two pack one sold under the name of easy fair, which is both flexible and sticks very well to properly prepared surfaces. The only drawback is that it is only sold in fairly large quantities. Available from a company called resin store in Cornwall.

With a diameter in excess of a dustbin lid it's a very rare can indeed.

The 'marina' owner sounds a bit of a Hampton wick.

A failed engine mount isn't always visible to the eye, as the weight of the engine will hold it together. You may need to use a lever of some sort to lift each corner a little.

You could use 4"x2" running parallel with your keelson but slotted to fit over the bearers, and glue wood to the keelson to level it up. At least that way you would keep the timber away from the base plate and achieve a strong framework for your flooring, it will also leave the floor at a reasonable height.

Could be, I bought it in 2001 so don't know how long the build took. Would it be normal to acquire the reg number before construction?

I'm assuming that there is some variation in the possible dates, as my last boat was a 1992 build and its number was 478 _ _ .

Thanks Richard, I have already tried them some time ago and it seems they had already scrapped the ones that had been removed, I guess I could try them again just in case.

I wondered if anyone has a spare handle for the three way valve situated at the end of the exhaust manifold on a marine Jp engine?

I'd definitely be interested in both the manifold size and the ones for the engine side covers, silencer, etc.

Ian duncan smith built his career based on the possession of these.

Our old shoreline fridge was better than the one that we bought five years ago.

He's not in the frame, apparently the thieves were strong and stable..

If you want to increase the length of the flue you can mount the appliance lower down.

A bicycle rack would eventually cause problems with low bridges, but the main issue with roof mounted add ons is visibility - it is much more relaxing to have a clear view of your journey.

Definitely an unlikely situation, normally compounded by weather conditions. If space saving is the main problem, as long as you have have enough in reserve, perhaps three x 6 kg, availability shouldn't be a problem as the shortages I experienced weren't over long periods.

I worked for calor for quite a while and they tended to have more supply problems with the 6kg propane and 7kg butane cylinders than any other products, this didn't happen often however. Another potential issue with smaller cylinders is output under heavy demand, ie. If you were to be both using a couple of rings on your oven and the oven, with someone having a shower at the same time it's entirely possible that the cylinder will freeze up and release less gas.

I have both these facilities on a dometic moonlight cooker, but the gimbal is only only designed to work on one plane, and the boat has a normal rake running downwards towards the stern. I also do at least40% of my cooking on an Epping range, and you'd need some impressive engineering to gimbal that! I'd agree that the canal is nearly devoid of excellent marine appliances, with chandlery outlets offering converted household /caravan equipment.

My pet hate with frying pans and boats is that the oil always ends up in one place. Agree with the cast iron option, they are heavier and slightly rough on the base, once burnt in they are as good as most non stick.

These are the ones I have used, as far as I'm aware they are sold as lister D head nuts, but I don't have any experience of those engines.

The beauty of using varnish is that once you come to repainting there are no worries about reactions to waxes, silicone, etc. That are inevitable with quick fixes.

Pre war whitworth nut measurement changed during ww2 due to scrimping, every little counted in those days.

The rocker covers don't need more than a nip to keep them in position, and these ones are a lister pattern and as such look the part. The tpi on metric may work, but the modern dome nuts are fairly squat. I certainly wouldn't use them for a manifold or similar !

You could apply that logic to wide beams, a number of single handers, hire craft.. but none of these generalisations is particularly helpful.