PeterF

someone filled the pantry at that end with too much Christmas food.

3 or so years ago. Restrictions are slightly less onerous if you are a member of the British Model Flying Association.

The same rules applying to drones now apply to radio control planes and helicopters. I fly RC planes and have operator ID from the CAA (civil aviation authority). All things like drones and RC models are classed as Unmanned Aircraft Systems (UAS) in the Air Navigation Order, the law covering all flying.

Here are some possible settings to start with, but really, the BMV needs to be tuned to your system and batteries to work correctly, there are several videos on Youtube from Victron describing this. Battery Capacity - 440 Ah (but as Tony above says, they may no longer have this actual capacity) Charged voltage - this should ideally be about 0.2V below your absorption voltage so if you normally charge at 14.4V then set this to 14.2V. Tail current - 1.5% - this means that when the charge current is less than 1.5% x 440 = 6.6Amps and the voltage is above 14.2V then it will go to 100% Charged detection time - leave at default 3 minutes Peukert exponent - leave it at the default 1.25 Charge efficiency Factor - 90% Current Threshold - leave at default 0.1A Discharge floor - 50% Leave everything else at default. The key things to getting them to show a bit more sense are the Charged voltage, the tail current and the charge efficiency factor. However, once again, I echo Tony's comments above, if the BMV is not tuned to your batteries then it can lie to you, so watching the voltages and currents is a good indication and the BMV gives you this data. I trust my BMV but I started with new batteries and spent time watching how the batteries charged to tweak the parameters.

Blackrose, That is good info for the future, guess I am lucky that when I did use it over a large surface the cork tiles were flexible enough.

I only had about 5mm space under my bare steel hatch so i glued some 3mm thick cork tile on with a no more nails type glue. You have to do it the hatch is dry and warmer and try to press something against the tiles to avoid an air pocket while it sets, something like an upside down broom wedged on the rear steps. Worked for me. Do not use the self adhesive tiles, the glue releases when the hatch gets very hot in the sun.

Remove it from the negative post and see if this makes a difference. It works by creating a small voltage for the controller to read and if the case is not isolated you may have created a ground loop affecting the voltage, hence affecting the measured temperature. My Victron one is bolted to the negative terminal but the case on that is definitely isolated.

My Tracer was once a month but that may have been a nominal month, i.e. 28 or 30 days. However, I had it set to 0 min duration.

As far as I recall from my Epever controller on my last boat, the load terminals on the MPPT were connected to the battery outlet terminals when the load output was turned on, so if the load was higher than the MPPT was generating the load would pull power from the battery. These are often used for things like outdoor lights which you can program to come on at night. I have also heard of people having their 12V fridge connected to the load terminals and the load only being activated during the day. I would be cautious of having any load on the load terminals that was of a higher rating than the MPPT to make sure the internals of the MPPT could not be overloaded. Anything on the load terminals should ideally be fused to prevent pulling too much power though the MPPT in case of a short.

You are thinking of the Montgomery, the OP is the Monmouth and Brecon, it is a tad longer.

As the alternator on the engine has the negative return through the engine block, my guess is the wiring is relying on the ground connection to complete the circuit. Therefore with ground on the battery the alternator charge current is bypassing the shunt. Move it to the system end.

I am with CraftInsure and they cover interconnecting tidal waterways. You can get a sample policy from their website AFAIR.

We have a Jabsco 58040-2012 on our boat, new 18 months ago, works well, no problems. It was fitted by the boat builder so their choice of model. The builder also runs a fleet of hire boats and use the same toilets in them so I am hoping that their choice is well informed based on their own experience.

I agree with this, I overheard the broker at the marina I moor at talking to someone a week or so back saying that things were slowing down compared to the last 2¼ years.

Utter BS. The fridge motor is about 50W according to both the datasheet and verified by the current output of the Multiplus. When it starts, occasionally if the Cerbo happens to log at exactly the right point it sees 900W, but often it does not register because it misses it. The start up current is thus 18 times the rated motor capacity. Perhaps all the workings of the Multiplus and the measurements are not accurate during this transient and it is recording high, but I posted it in response to MtB's and Tracy's observations that the recommended 10x factor was perhaps a little low and something more conservative would be better.

I have a 2020 year fridge rated 50W or thereabouts. Occasionally it has turned on when I am looking at the Cerbo monitor and it displays a momentary load of 900 to 950W.

The downstairs toilet cistern is first in line in our house followed by the hand basin next to this toilet. Dangerous living.

I do not know if the Electrodyne GE100-48 is still made or not, I contacted them in 2019 and got the curve I posted above from them as it was not available on line.

At one point Hybrid Marine offered something they called the "Power Station" , a Beta 43 or larger with an Electrodyne 100A 48V (model GE100-48) brushless alternator. As noted above, wide polyvee belt with idler wheel. These brushless alternators are more efficient I believe and need external regulation, may even have external diode packs. You can get these alternators from the US but $3,000 or so before importing, no idea about UK or European suppliers. Photo I saved from Hybrid Marine and curve as supplied by Electrodyne.

Or you can consider a Wakespeed WS500 alternator regulator that measures both battery current and voltage and can have an external control signal from a BMS to shut down charging prior to disconnection. The WS500 also has CAN bus capability and can be linked to several BMS units (REC, Victron Lynx + others) so the BMS which also has battery voltage and current can provide voltage / current targets to the alternator regulator. Not cheap but apparently very effective.

This has got me thinking that perhaps one way to try this would be to make up two schilling rudder shaped half shells that have four recessed bolt holes in, drill four holes through your flat plate rudder and bolt the two half shells either side of your rudder. This saves dismantling your tiller, rudder stock and rudder and if it does not work then you can remove it. Probably still need it out of the water.

I lit mine for the first time last week and it would not let diesel into the burner pot. Mine has the rectangular Toby regulator. When I took the top off the regulator and checked it out I found that the float in the regulator was stuck in the up position so it would not lower down and let more fuel in. I pressed it down with a screwdriver and made sure it was free, everything worked OK afterwards. There is a Refleks Facebook group, they have all the info online. https://m.facebook.com/groups/334808647035734

Late 1980s travelling downstream on the river Trent from Cranfleet to Nottingham with my wife in her dad's 49ft narrowboat (a Springer) we had an engine failure. We had a mud weight, I recall it was a lump of steel around 25kg and that stopped the boat and held it whilst I bodged a repair to the burst cooling hose to limp back to base on the Erewash.

regarding the Monty, we ate in the Queens head Thursday last week, excellent meal. For any other visitors, there is plenty of mooring on the short arm with the services between Frankton locks and Graham Palmer lock. @Telstar17 from your description we were the 4th boat that travelled down that day, getting through at about 12.30. I was glad we did not rush leaving Ellesmere at 09:00. We ended up staying next to the services on the short arm between Frankton locks and Graham Palmer lock Tuesday, between bridges 80 & 81 Wednesday and Queens Head Thursday, exiting the Monty on Friday. We enjoyed the trip, saw several species of butterflies and dragon flies plus other wildlife. I took a walk to beyond bridge 85, Crickheath Wharf to see the restoration work.

Whitfield was recently sold by Aqueduct Marina, it was on the hard standing area for some time prior to sale. I believe that was late 2021 or early 2022.