BEngo

Make sure you get one with metal drain plugs so as not to have BSS trouble (if it's applicable to your boat). N

I know someone with a manual winch fitted to his tug-deck at the bow. That doesn't seem to get much use. A Tirfor can be an essential piece of kit for a deep-draught boat in the remoter backwaters of the BCN and like places, but an electric winch for mooring? N

I agree the CS Listers are good reliable starters, though you would not want to start a JP4 by hand after a night out in the frost, unless feeling very fit. You can get petrol-start Kelvin going in almost any state of wear and there's no winding needed- just flick it over compression like a car engine. I have heard it suggested that provided you can't t get a screwdriver between the piston and the liner all will be well. That is probably why the diesel starting ones were much less common, despite the added complication of magneto, carb and starting valve on the petrol versions. N

Generally not very well unless in really good order. Otherwise it's the same as any diesel- Decompressor on, wind it up, drop the decompresssor, keep winding till it goes or until the winder is kn@ckered.. With a starter motor decompressor is optional. N

First take 4 to 6 large ( telegraph pole sized) and well greased planks. Slide one end of each plank under your boat and rest the remaining end on the bank where the boat is wanted. Site a winch next to the bank end of each sloping plank. Take a rope from each winch out and under the boat and fasten it to same. Protect boat as necessary from chafing/cutting by the ropes. Heave in evenly on the winches so the boat slides up the greased planks onto the bank. Retire for tea. Jack boat off planks and pack up in a position for working on it. Put the planks away until you need them for the launching. Have another cup of tea. N

Of course, to the Merkin Cousins a 'gas' lamp is one that runs on petrol. I think Coleman might make them, but far too much explosive potential for me. N

The first thing to do is to find out what is causing your fuel pumps to seize and stop that. Which bit is seized? If it's the elements they are fuel lubricated so the prime suspect has to be dirty fuel- either it is getting round/through your filters or the pipework between fuel pump and filters is contaminated. Check the filters are assembled properly, with all their washers, seals and bolts in the right place, the right size and tightened up correctly. Dismantle the fuel pipework completely between the filters and the injectors. Blow it out thoroughly. Dunk it all in clean diesel and repeat the blowing out. Do not use rags, microfiber cloths or anything similar during the cleaning. Re-assemble the pipework and bleed a good pint or more of diesel through the pipes t into a clean glass jar, before connecting any pipe to the pumps. Let it stand overnight and check it is clear and bright the following morning. It can then go back into the tank. Only then connect the pumps up and bleed them. N

The Isuzu is a commonly marinised modern engine found around the canal system in various guises. Has a decent reputation ( as does the equivalent Kubota). Should do you no harm. It will push a GRP Nauticus 27 along nicely where there is water enough to do so. It's certainly got enough spare blades- looks like someone had to experiment expensively to find a fit. Suck it and see what suits you. Ideally, in open water, the engine will rev to just below its max rpm in ahead gear. Most canal craft have too big a propeller but stop better as a result. N

The Concoform basin is the original line of the canal to the Ordnance Depot. There was a bridge under the railway, but this was removed when the line was electrified in the 60's, after the Ordnance Depot had closed. The Canal opened in the late 18th and early 19th century-throughout by 1805. There was an article in, probably, WW about the depot some time back. Last time I was there IIRC the depot was about to be redeveloped into homes. N

I assume you have some existing roof to copy and that you want a template to bend the box-section to.. Cut a strip of ply long enough to fit to fit between the side pieces and wider than the curve is deep. Fit up to roof by clamping against a pair of existing roof frames. Scribe the ply to the roof sheet. Cut the ply along the scribed roof line. Check its fit somewhere else along the existing roof. If the fit is not OK you have a varying shaped roof! If OK use the ply as a template to bend the new roof bearers. Belt them into the open side of a short bit of biggish RSJ till they fit the template. If you don't have some existing roof then use a similar technique to copy the curve off the outside of a roof that you like the look of! If specifying to someone who is going to roll them for you your example of length and centre rise is quite enough. If you post the figures/ PM them I will draw the arc and get the CAD program to work out the radius. It might be useful for something. N

That is almost certainly the 'Broad Arrow' found on nearly every thing owned by MoD. Boats used to be managed by a section of the MoD at Foxhill Bath, but that's now a housing estate. No idea where they are now- probably Abbey Wood in Bristol, but the numbers should mean something to them. How long is the boat? It is clearly powered, so it might have been either a 27 ft motor whaler or a 32ft motor cutter both of which were clinker built.. There were various other boats and local Sea Cadets units or Sea Scout units often had one or more on their books. It looks wrong for either a Slow Motor Boat or a Fast Motor Boat. Common MoD boat engines were the Dorman DSM, the Enfield HO2 and Lister S or T series. N

Gunmetal is a Bronze. Some does contain a little Zinc- Admiralty Gunmetal for instance was Cu 88% Sn 10% and Zn 2%.. Other Gunmetals such as LG-2 and LG-3 contained Lead or Nickel.(G3) Then there is Aluminium Bronze and Phosphor Bronze.... N

I have a plaque. The originals were in gun metal (copper/tin alloy) as opposed to brass ( copper/zinc alloy). Brass ones would not be the right colour. What I would be even more interested in is finding a jobbing foundry and machinist able to produce a batch of cylinders- I have the (proven) cylinder pattern and core boxes and a 2D CAD drawing of the cylinder. The ability to cast 25 kg of iron seems scarce these days unless about 5000 units are wanted. N

The Toolstation and Screwfix own-brand ones are built to their price. The professionals use Crabtree day-to-day or MK for a ritzy job. They are more expensive but you do get what you pay for. N

Sorry I can't help on superquilt- never seen it. Your interpretation of what to do with kingspan foam sheets is good. thre is some risk of cold bridges where any frames are, but thin foam or polystyrene between the tape and the lining will sort this. N

By hand, probably, but using a good HSS drill, in a decent pillar drill, it will be to size, or very slightly less in most metals. Plastics and some bronzes tend to close up so the holes will tend to be less than size .

Re-using the existing slab ballast is OK. You might want to give it a good pressure wash and to ensure it is dry before it goes back in the bilge. Any continuous sheet will trap moisture ( condensation or leaks) between itself and the base. Bitumen with cable housing will be fine. No need to put primer under it as it sticks better to steel. The most important thing is to cut an access hatch at the back and to check the bilge is staying dry regularly- say monthly. That way you can tackle any problems as soon as they arise and before they become major. As you rebuild its a good idea to ensure there is a water vapour barrier between the cabin and the insulation. That will prevent condensation on the cabin sides behind the insulation. Sprayfoam has a built-in vapour barrier but kingspan, rockwool and polystyrene all should have a separate barrier- builders thick polythene sheet and duct tape is good for polystyrene and rockwool or for aluminium faced kingspan the aluminium tape is good. N

The Rolls Royce thing to do would be to cross-drill both rudder and stock in two places, taper ream (1:50 for metric or 1:48 if imperial) and fit big taper pins to match the reamer . This may be a bit radical, especially if you don't have a taper-pin reamer or any taper pins handy. So, instead of taper pins, cross-drill the stock in two places for a pair of say 10mm or 12mm roll-pins which you should be able to get from a fastener stockist. They are more tolerant of worn holes than bolts and tougher as well so when you need to take the blade off they can easily be beaten out with a drift. I would also take Bizzards advice about extra nuts for the pinch bolts- M10 nuts should be about 8mm thick or M12 10mm thick. In your application more thickness is better so anything less than nut thickness is too small and won't have enough thread in it.. A2 stainless for the bolts is OK, into mild steel nuts. Use some copper grease on the threads. Closed cell foam is the stuff for the inside of the rudder. Glasplies in Southport used to sell it as a two-pack. They come up on Google. It can't go soggy because all the 'bubbles' are individual and there is no 'through route' for moisture. RTFM carefully though. A very little liquid makes a LOT of foam and it expands with some force. It also gets bloody hot whilst curing. N

In UK? N

Something fishy about this statement? N

The moorings at Hartshill yard are OK; if you keep toward the road end it's quietest and the pubs in Hartshill were OK last time we visited them. N

The antifreeze contains a corrosion inhibitor ( you could use something like Fernox or the DIY sheds' own brew instead., if the fire is going to be lit all winter) as well as glycol to keep the water liquid.. The suggestion was in response to boatman at post #8 who suggested a drain valve for summer, I assume because if all the water is drained out there won't be corrosion in the radiators and back boiler. Draining down in summer (and washing the boiler fire space out with lime water) was not unusual on early solid fuelled house central heating systems IIRC. N

Caustic soda/sodium hydroxide (from your local ironmonger as drain cleaner) or stove door glass cleaner or oven cleaner. ( Oven Pride is best IMHO) Don't put any caustic anywhere near aluminium. Rinse well in water afterwards. Or you could just warm it up with a blowlamp and burn off the cr@p then go at it with a toothbrush and detergent. N

I don't really know these pumps, but as the heat output from a neverspacher etc is more than your 1.2 kW I would expect them to be OK. There is/was a suitable s/h Johnson circ pump on the Sale and Wanted pages. N

You should put the circulation pump in the lower pipe between the stove and the header tank pushing water into the stove . That way it has to deal with the cooler water and will last longer ( some are only rated to 90C and even the 100C+ rated ones are better off cooler). It will also reduce the tendency to pump water through the header tank. Fit lever stop valves either side of the pump so you can get it out without draining the whole system. In theory, the 1.2 kW radiator will ensure that the system does not boil because the fire input is only 1.2 kW. That assumes that the heat can be carried away from the stove fast enough. 15mm pipe will introduce a significant flow restriction. I would use 22mm pipe and short as possible 15mm drops to the radiators. That way the system will probably thermo circulate at low power outputs, saving battery and pump life if you fit a thermostat on the pipe outlet from the stove. Fill it with antifreeze and there is no need to drain down in summer. N