Arducius

That looks like exactly the sort of thing I need! Thank you.

Thanks for the suggestion but it doesn't state if it's suitable for 12VDC, only the wattage (120W). 5A at 12V would give me 60W, which is well within the rated max, but if it's 120W max at 240VAC then that would only be 0.5A (max), and that's a lot less than the pump could potentially draw, being fused at 5A.

Hopefully there shouldn't be any hair etc coming from my water tank. This is going on the hot water feed to the shower, not the waste. This way I have the ability to do exactly what you describe, but without the ability to forget to turn the pump on and flood the bathroom. I admit it makes the wiring more complex, but not vastly so. Those both sound like good suggestions. I will definitely use the time delay to keep the pump running a bit to allow it to clear the waste pipe. Do these just work using capacitors that discharge slowly after the power is cut?

I am trying to find a water flow switch to turn on a whale gulper pump when the water flows through the pipe to the shower, however I can only find flow switches rated for 1 amp or lower. As the gulper instructions state it should be fused at 5 amps I need the switch to handle the (potentially) higher load used by the pump. Ideally I'd keep this setup as simple as possible, so a if a higher rated flow switch is available please let me know as I haven't been able to find anything! Otherwise I was thinking I could use a relay to control the power to the pump, which would mean I could use the switch within its rated max current, however being unfamiliar with relays I have a couple of questions: If I have a 12v +ve supply, run it through the switch, through the relay and back to the -ve then am I just creating the equivalent of a short circuit when the water starts flowing? Or is my relay the equivalent of an appliance in this case? It must "draw" some power. Would something like this from Maplin in conjunction with one of the switches below do the job? Ohm's law tells me that this would draw 0.15 amps (a = 12v / 80 ohms), assuming I am not misunderstanding/missing something. Switch 1 Switch 2 Whatever happens there will be another switch parallel with this setup to allow a manual override if we need to run the pump with the shower off. Thanks in advance.

Many months have passed since I started this thread and I still haven't gotten around to this job but it will be done soon as I'm running out of other distractions! I think I have everything planned out. We have bought the shower & whale gulper, first fix plumbing is in place, going to find a water flow switch so the gulper runs when the shower is on (wired up with manual switch for running longer periods if required) but I have one more problem to solve... How does the gulper connect to the waste pipe? The pump has 19mm hose tails so I can clamp a hose over those no problem, but I'm going to need an adapter from a normal waste pipe from the shower that will reduce down to the 19mm hose to go onto the pump. Does such an adapter exist?

Thank you both, I have been searching for "feed tank", "expansion tank", and variations on that theme. Header tank seems to bring back much more likely candidates! Now I just need to figure out how much water the radiators, back boiler and pipes hold...

I am about to plumb in my back boiler but have so far been unable to find a suitable feed/expansion tank. I am hoping to have an open system so I can top up the water when necessary, as opposed to a closed system using an accumulator and a PRV. Either I am not very good at searching or I am looking for the wrong thing, so does anyone have any suggestions for a vented expansion vessel, preferebly one that looks good as it'll be on show? I know I need to calculate the capacity of the system and size the vessel appropriately. My boat previously had a tupperware box as the expansion vessel (on the ond, now removed system) but I think I'd rather have something a little more robust! Thanks in advance!

BSS response was that they do allow this model on boats. BUT... The PD 5482-3: 2005 Code of practice for domestic butane and propane gas-burning installations states the following: So thats a check, and oh... this isn't a replacement. and That's all fine, but again this isn't a replacement. So that leaves me thinking I can use a D61 if it's a replacement, but it's a bit vague about using a new one on a new fit out. In this case a long, unbreakable balanced flue won't allow me to pass under low bridges. I guess it comes down to how you interpret "should" as opposed to "must".

Interesting, we were told by a gas man that the Morco D61B (that we have already purchased) is not allowed on boats. I am hoping he is talking about the RCD and not the BSS. I've also contacted BSS to see what they say. Hopefully an email from them confirming that it isn't banned should convince the gas man.

I have been wondering about this as I have a morco boiler to mount soon. Is a 25mm deep (creating a 25mm air gap) hardwood frame suitable for the BSS? Does the BSS care that the sheet metal will conduct the heat to the hardwood producing a potential fire hazard, or is hardwood deemed fire resistant enough for this purpose? Also, how do you size the sheet metal, does it need to be a certain amount larger than the appliance or can it simply be the same size as the appliances footprint on the wall? If what you have suggested is BSS-compliant then that's good news because it makes the fabrication of the "hearth" (for want of a better word) for the boiler to mount onto quite simple. Apologies if this has been answered elswhere.

Excellent. I'll go for "normal" switches then. And yes, LEDs used throughout! Thanks for all the replies.

Hi all, I have spent the weekend fitting lights in the living areas of my boat, ready to be wired up once they're all in position. However I have so far been unable to find a 12v switch that looks like a normal light switch. So my question to the good people of the forum: Can I use a standard mains (240v) light switch wired up to the lights? In my googling I have seen people say that you should down-rate the switch by 50% to be on the safe side, so a switch rated at 10 amps with 240v AC should be considered ok for 5 amps with 12v DC. I have also seen people mention the contacts becoming corroded in the switch is used with DC and others say this should be fine. Also will this cause an issue for BSS? I will trawl through the documentation but if someone says "no, you cannot do this" it'll save me a lot of time! If I shouldn't use a standard light switch, does anyone know where I can get 12v switches that look like normal ones you'd find in a house? Thanks in advance!

Are you advocating violence against anyone cycling above an unknown-to-them speed limit that you've decided upon?

That's slightly different then. You have specific requirements that mean a lot of the moorings that are available aren't suitable to you. Perhaps greater provision of disabled/limited access moorings is required to ensure someone in a position such as yours can plan ahead and have reliable mooring spots.

I have to agree with sassan, I haven't had any issues finding somewhere to moor when I've been down that end of the K&A (even in hot spots like BoA). You just have to accept that if you want to be right next to the pub* then it's likely that someone else might do too, but a short walk away from the pub will give you access to many quiet, scenic mooring spots. KenK, I think it'd be good if they did apply a similar approach across the whole network. Everyone would know exactly when they had moved to the next neighbourhood and there would be no ambiguity about whether you'd moved far enough to qualify as moving into the next area. *or water point, road, bins, etc