PhilR

Maureen must be turning in her grave at the debacle at her lock. I find it hard to understand why CaRT hadn't sorted out a problem that they must have been aware of for over 12 months. Wardle lock must be one of the busiest in the north west and a vital link up here.

There is a massive difference between 1000 litres and 355 litres. You must know the answer? Go back to the builder and ask them why they didn't build it to spec.

It isn't necessarily the power of the light/lamp that is the problem. It is usually a problem because the unit is in a fixed position and pointing directly ahead. Anyone with a bit of experience and empathy would/should be aware of how their lighting affects oncoming boaters and adjust the beam accordingly. Unfortunately, many boats have fixed lamps which can't be adjusted.

The first time I boated up the *Rochdale 9* was in 1972 when it had just been temporarily re-opened. We were attending a rally (in the days when rallies were campaigning events rather than festivals!). I can remember well the lock under Rodwell Tower. There were social issues under there even in those days!

The type of activity mentioned has been going on at that location for over 30 years, maybe 45 years. The police must be aware. But why aren't the police more proactive in dealing with the known problems there?

I have subscribed. If it is not of interest to me I won't watch - it doesn't cost anything either way! Good luck to the lads. There have been several television series about the canals where the team seemed to deem it necessary to set up collisions and then have a hearty laugh about it. I assume that isn't their intention. Cheers Phil

I have only just noticed your post. When do you intend doing the trip? In the past I have had an early start and travelled from Dukinfield to Castlefield in a day. But that was before there were secure moorings at both Portland basin and Piccadilly which is handy if you want to break up the journey.

I find that interesting Tony. Thanks. My installation doesn't have a warning lamp/warning lamp control. But it does have an isolation switch and engine hour counter. My old controller (see photo in post #21) seems to do a good job of maintaining bulk charge at 14.4 volts. I am sure most people on here with modern boats have bigger electrical needs but it works fine for me.

Attached is a photo of a wiring diagram from the SR2 handbook and a photo of the controller. I thought someone might find it useful?

I have today just finished fitting new deck boards on my stern deck. The original boards (cheap exterior plywood with a decent quality laminate on top) have lasted 40 years.!! I have used 18mm WISA board, bought and cut approx to size from my local timber merchant. All boards needed trimming to fit the shape of the stern, but the boards were easy to work with a handsaw, plane and sander. I used coal tar pitch to seal the edges.

I had forgotten that. My previous boat had a Perkins 4/107. My starting procedure was to turn on the heating element until there was a puff of smoke from the inlet manifold, then engage the starter motor. It never failed to start first time. My SR2 has no starting aids, but in warm weather it starts within 1 or 2 seconds (assuming the battery is good). I presume the manufacturers' logic in having no air filter is that a marine engine would not normally be operating in dusty conditions?

Most of the marine versions of the SR2 didn't have an air filter. Here is a photo of the inlet manifold and cover. There is no filter under that cover.

I agree. But we are discussing whether the CABLE pushes or pulls. I am sure you are aware that gear cables can be attached to control boxes with either direction of travel.

Get off the train and have a look. Judge for yourself.

My current boat pushes for reverse. In over 50 years of boating I have never had a morse cable failure, although I did have a control box failure once on the BCN Challenge. We did the next 89 locks with mole wrench and angle brackets on the end of the cable. After about 10 locks I wrapped a sock around the angle bracket for comfort! We did once have a failure with cable/drum/pulley steering which was highly amusing when we cocked up the repair ........ But getting back to Mike's OP, I assume the steering position is close to the engine STOP control? So in the worst case scenario you could stop the engine? Usually, if it is necessary to use a lot of engine power to get out of a potential collision it displays a lack of forethought and skill. Best to take it easy and be alert.

That looks a handy bit of kit. Personally, I would keep whatever 12v wall sockets that the OP has on the boat and make up a lead/plug using that adaptor. There is little point in spending money adapting things onboard when the OP might go down a different route sometime in the future.

Why didn't he run the generator whilst cruising? Why wait until after 8:00 pm when he was moored? It will be interesting to know why.

The SR series Listers are great when you get to my age and have impaired hearing! I love the reliability of the engine.

Is this the same boat mentioned by Welsherfarr? or coincidence that they both have Petters?

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If the Petter runs well keep it. A steel cabin is probably the best way forward, but keep a similar tumblehome to the original. Slab sided cabins can spoil the appearance of a good hull, but that is just my opinion. Do what suits you, It is your boat and have fun.

Having owned a boat with a Perkins 4/107 and indirect cooling (heat exchanger with wet exhaust), I am surprised why it is taking so long to diagnose the problem. I agree it is most likely due to a blocked mudbox/strainer. It would be most unusual (and extremely bad practice) if there isn't a sea cock at the raw water inlet. There should be a mudbox or strainer above the sea cock. The engine only needs to be run for a few seconds to ascertain whether or not the raw water system is flowing. If not stop the engine asap. EDITED TO ADD - I posted the above before reading the OP's latest message. I still reckon the inlet strainer needs checking before looking at the raw water pump impeller.

Does the OP's Dawncraft have an inboard engine or outboard/outdrive unit? Is the damage below the transom or under an inboard mounted engine?

If you are painting a coach you will need to use masking tape and get it straight. Applying vinyl tape sounds simpler. I have often thought of doing the coach lines with vinyl tape. Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Thanks for the explanation Alan. I didn't realise they had *privatised* it