jonathanA

The point made by many people is that yes a GI can POTENTIALLY fail following some sort of fault current and therefore should be tested after an overload trip. This thread demonstrates how simple that is. if in your opinion then this makes me a fool well I can live with that because I care not. Educated to honours degree level and working in telecoms for 40 year I’m not merely a craftsman or technician masquerading as an ‘engineer’ but I expect that distinction would be totally beyond yours and wotevers comprehension so I shall waste no more time with you. As with any post on a forum people need to weigh up the opinions expressed and make up their minds what’s appropriate for their situation. I think it’s important to debunk some of the self appointed experts when they are wrong/misleading or at least present a differing view - don’t you agree ?

Forgive me for having a life and not being glued to the canal world forum 24 x 7 just in case the One of the great ones may chose to share his wisdom with us mere mortals.... ffs

If you have tested your GI and it’s ok and you know how to then there is no problem. It ain’t broke don’t fix it.... If you are determined to change it out then one with a status monitor is the way to go (leds or meter) I would recommend the safe shore device. (You don’t even need a multimeter to test these) Personally I would pay little attention to those on here who postulate that the GI must be capable of sinking the load of Hinckley B based on some American standard.

Each time their own but to me wooden window frames on steel boats look out of place and given the choice I would never have wooden frames on a house. Even really good hardwood frames need staining or oiling every couple of years. double glazed units are they way to go for sure amazing how long it’s taken for them to become normal on new build canal boats

Like @WotEver I’m not quite sure what you mean but I’m assuming you mean the little triangular bits of wood in the bottom corners of the wooden lining to the inside of the window... if so then the answer is decorative purposes simple as eta if you have made some sort of lining that matches the frame rounded corners then you have a done the same job some might say a better job !

Pleased for them - looks like they have been very lucky

Nova Scotia wharf Blackburn halfway up a 7 lock flight so Unless your passing through it’s a 14 lock round trip....

I fitted a 12V shut-off valve to stop this from happening. Opens when engine is started and closes when engine is turned off. It also closes if the calorifier gets too hot (have a domestic style cylinder-stat to limit temp to 60C) If you do a bit of googling on legionares disease I think you will find that 60 isn’t hot enough to be sure of killing the nasty bugs. just saying....

They do limited sizes and it seemed expensive when we bought some for temporary use. by the time I weighed up the cost of decent material, foam zips etc I was happy to pay Amtrim to make up cushions for our L shaped Pullman. but would have been interesting to do and if you have some existing ones copy from probably a lot easier (we didn’t have )

The Glenn skirting heater looks expensive for what it is. I’d go oil filled as slim said

Yes no problem at all guess they are stainless steel. But of a pain to paint round. I’d be worried about hooks snagging on clothing etc

I’ve got a pvc one didn’t seem to be any other option ! I also have press studs and they seem ok so far (couple of years) money well spent as we didn’t want / need one of those abominations on the back.

Another vote for the wickes one .... the blow function is useful on occasion too

Most likely it’s not an ‘earth return’ sender like it should be for marine applications (but usually aren’t) if one of the wires is connected to -ve that would confirm

I doubt it’s 1/2 bsp they are often NPT which are very similar but slightly different thread. I have seen the strong in arm weak in head make them fit.... as Jen says try it in a proper BSP fitting. There are two specs for senders euro and us and the sender and gauge need to match. personally I would order a new gauge and sender off fleabay for about a fiver and and adapter for the sender if it’s not the right thread. is there a separate sender for the temperature warning light ?

Before getting too carried away I would measure the available spaces on your roof bearing in mind vents, hatches, pigeon boxes, pole racks etc surprising how little free roof space you might actually have ... i went for a rigid panel fixed with brackets (non tilting) forward of the centre line and a lovely Victron controller (with blue tooth) bought from run by the sun (very helpful chap) who knows what he’s talking about I was less convinced by photonics and completely unconvinced by bimble (just my opinion based on my limited experience)

If you say so ?

Not so good for a 12v system given they are mains units.... More typical of cheap Chinese units I’d say ....

Hard to tell from the pics but looks like a modified standard fitting to me so just look for something that looks like it will fit.

The usual problem with these is the solenoid travel needs adjustment and the breaker trips needing resetting. The breaker should be on the top of the big white relay box fitted to the side of the engine below the air filter. since thats not happening then perhaps the solenoid is faulty in some way or maybe it’s just a wiring problem eg a bad connection. Might be worth seeing what happens when you turn the key to the stop position. You should see and hear the solenoid engaging every time you turn the key. Probably worth checking the connections to the solenoid and there is a multiway plug behind the Control Panel and on the side of the relay box. I seem to recall you can get non-original solenoids for about 30 quid off eBay, so I can’t really see the point in putting a manual stop in when there is a perfectly reasonable key Operated system fitted as standard.

I do ! However I was keeping it simple for the OP Which just makes it worse he must be using bell wire....

I can’t really understand your description but sounds like the 20+ cable is undersized? Usually led reading lamps draw a very small current 1 or 2 amps say. you should be able to run them off speaker wire (not recommended) what size are the cables especially the 20 foot one and what else is it supplying. simple solution is to run a new feed for the lights with suitable fusing etc

Reedley marina at Burnley is just off the M65 giving a choice of motorway routes to the Heathrow of the north... whilst the marina doesn’t have a boat repair chap on staff, plenty available in the area (if not on a boat in the marina)

Doesn’t the concentration of the acid vary with charge state ? Must do or we wouldn’t use SG to test the state of charge. Not very scientific but I seem to think I’ve spilled very small amounts of battery acid on my hands / fingers and it seemed to take a few minutes before I felt any burning. Not the same as handling plates covered in the stuff....

It’s not that long, certainly not much different to some tunnels that are only one boat wide but have two way working... could be fun hanging around on a very windy day but not dangerous....