jonathanA

I doubt it’s 1/2 bsp they are often NPT which are very similar but slightly different thread. I have seen the strong in arm weak in head make them fit.... as Jen says try it in a proper BSP fitting. There are two specs for senders euro and us and the sender and gauge need to match. personally I would order a new gauge and sender off fleabay for about a fiver and and adapter for the sender if it’s not the right thread. is there a separate sender for the temperature warning light ?

Before getting too carried away I would measure the available spaces on your roof bearing in mind vents, hatches, pigeon boxes, pole racks etc surprising how little free roof space you might actually have ... i went for a rigid panel fixed with brackets (non tilting) forward of the centre line and a lovely Victron controller (with blue tooth) bought from run by the sun (very helpful chap) who knows what he’s talking about I was less convinced by photonics and completely unconvinced by bimble (just my opinion based on my limited experience)

If you say so ?

Not so good for a 12v system given they are mains units.... More typical of cheap Chinese units I’d say ....

Hard to tell from the pics but looks like a modified standard fitting to me so just look for something that looks like it will fit.

The usual problem with these is the solenoid travel needs adjustment and the breaker trips needing resetting. The breaker should be on the top of the big white relay box fitted to the side of the engine below the air filter. since thats not happening then perhaps the solenoid is faulty in some way or maybe it’s just a wiring problem eg a bad connection. Might be worth seeing what happens when you turn the key to the stop position. You should see and hear the solenoid engaging every time you turn the key. Probably worth checking the connections to the solenoid and there is a multiway plug behind the Control Panel and on the side of the relay box. I seem to recall you can get non-original solenoids for about 30 quid off eBay, so I can’t really see the point in putting a manual stop in when there is a perfectly reasonable key Operated system fitted as standard.

I do ! However I was keeping it simple for the OP Which just makes it worse he must be using bell wire....

I can’t really understand your description but sounds like the 20+ cable is undersized? Usually led reading lamps draw a very small current 1 or 2 amps say. you should be able to run them off speaker wire (not recommended) what size are the cables especially the 20 foot one and what else is it supplying. simple solution is to run a new feed for the lights with suitable fusing etc

Reedley marina at Burnley is just off the M65 giving a choice of motorway routes to the Heathrow of the north... whilst the marina doesn’t have a boat repair chap on staff, plenty available in the area (if not on a boat in the marina)

Doesn’t the concentration of the acid vary with charge state ? Must do or we wouldn’t use SG to test the state of charge. Not very scientific but I seem to think I’ve spilled very small amounts of battery acid on my hands / fingers and it seemed to take a few minutes before I felt any burning. Not the same as handling plates covered in the stuff....

It’s not that long, certainly not much different to some tunnels that are only one boat wide but have two way working... could be fun hanging around on a very windy day but not dangerous....

Ours is a very big nut 38mm - had to buy a 3/4 inch socket set... there’s a joke in there somewhere about the big nut holding the tiller ....

I think they did keep it open last year ? not sure someone local will know. but agree can’t see why it can’t be used through the winter . im not even sure why it needs to be one way working either. The usual reason given is sids ditch isnt wide enough for two boats to pass. Sid of sids ditch fame helped work us through the Stanley flight in the summer.

There is no interest in savings but try borrowing money.... there is something called cost of cash and net present value. i will simply stop paying in one lump sum online and switch to direct debit monthly that’s a gain for me and a significant loss to CRT as any accountant will tell you to be fair I’ve not looked at CRTs finances so maybe they are awash with cash in which case it’s no big deal for them but still worth while to me.....

If your on a shoreline fit a GI or IT. of course if you know better than don’t bother it’s no skin off my nose or more accurately no metal off my boat... ypu might be lucky and the combination of earth potentials, metals, contaminants in the water and your boat wiring might mean your ok....

Am I reading this correctly. I currently pay in one go and get the prompt payment discount. But from next year I might as well pay monthly by direct debit and get the same discount ? I’d say that’s an own goal by CRT. Clearly they have no financial acumen at all ....

Quote : I had help initially getting it started and he cut out the relay, solenoid, the lister panel + ignition+fuse box. my main interest is just figuring out where is best to reattach and test the old relay and solenoid etc, and get a fuse box cant help feeling that was help you could have done without they haven’t really done you any favours by bastardising the manufacturer’s wiring. anyway it’s all very basic and simple the stop solenoid simply move the stop lever in the same way as a manual stop control. Two wires to the stop solenoid one -ve and the other connected to the stop position on the ignition switch. In the proper lister setup there is a relay rather than a direct connection between the ignition switch and the stop solenoid . hope that helps

The worry is how many other installations has this guy done that are as equally poor ? Unfortunately Ive come across many a good mechanic that I wouldn’t let change a bulb but are whizzes with spanners.... Perhaps these chaps are good at boat mechanics and systems but are clearly lacking on solar and basic marine electrical installs

We are pretty far north (Lancashire) and that’s what we do. couldn’t be bothered with some of faffing described in this thread. Coldest we have experienced so far is minus 12 in 2012. I do have a drain off at a low point in the cold water system so not much left in the pipes.

Yeah the idea is the game and players are so boring the paint will throw itself off the roof and into the cut to get away.... ????

A bit to late use a scarifier now the grass has been taken off... ?? a scrabbler might be what you were thinking of ?

Yep i agree - I’ve never seen a tubular heater that didn’t have an earth connection but that’s not to say there aren’t some (apparently)

They’d be double insulated so no problem then .. whilst I know Tony makes this point every year about heaters what about all the people using domestic fridges washing machines and such like that are permanently installed on boats ?

The 9v battery is to test the GI. No lights on with the 9v test battery removed all is good ....

All the ones I’ve seen from reputable sources required earthing. Fairly unlikely that the painted cases would make a path to the hull but it could happen as could the chafing of the supply cable.... obviously the op had his reasons but I would have thought the investment in a decent GI would have been worthwhile and save any problem