IDS

Yes. The each shunt device is programmed with an address. The display then shows data from one device, and using a couple of button push operations, the display is switched to the other device. One advantage of the wireless connection ! Note I've not tested the wireless range in the boat environment yet. (e.g. shunt close to battery terminals under rear deck, display in cabin. there maybe a problem with a steel bulkhead in the way) With wireless connection you can move the display around easily without having to worry about wiring to the shunt. Depends on your wiring configuration. If your batteries are in a nice environment you may not have a problem, but mine are a bit vulnerable. Battery negative leads tend to be short to the common point between engine and domestic banks, that's where it would normally be located, to see both charge and discharge current. So yes, close to the -ve terminal. (or +ve terminal with a configuration change in the unit wiring) The mounting lugs on the plastic enclosure are really tiny and not suitable for purpose when you consider the size of the connecting battery cables on the studs, you will need to design a sensible mount, you cant let it float about on the cables. The device I ordered was a 200A model, however the shunt is stamped 300A 75mV, so not sure what the differences really are unless they sent me the wrong one. Not done a high current test yet, and anyway in my environment 75A should be max current. So with two big heat sinks (the cables) bolted to the terminals I'm not worried about heat dissipation , in my case, about 3w max.

With the wireless config, instal the shunts in the battery -ve leads. Then you only need a single fused +ve feed wire for the electronics. The display unit will monitor both shunts, selectable on the display if you wish. (ie each display can access both units) The electronics in the shunt retains the accumulated charge/discharge data so it is not lost if the display is turned off. In the unit I tested the current drain of the electronics in the shunt was 20mA, and in the display 60mA. Be aware the shunt packaging is crap and needs some sort of IP65 or better enclosure. Edit - the packaging of the display is also crap certainly not weatherproof.

Another vote for a drill pump, they're only a fiver for the cheap ones. Don't let them run dry though, even for a short time. Easy to connect to offcuts of standard poly hosepipe with hozelock fittings. Also useful for sampling a few liters of fuel from the bottom of the tank.

We cycled a bit of the canal in this area, and it is very quiet and small compared to other waterway areas in France. Have stayed in Malestroit and visited Josselin, both very attractive Medieval small towns with lots of timbered buildings and interesting corners. The tourism offices have local information. Market day in Malestroit is Thursday, and Josselin Saturday. There is an interesting Museum of the French Resistance near Saint Marcel about 5 km from Malestroit if you have bikes.

You need to paint the phospate treated areas eith a top coat as soon as possible anyway to keep out moisture. It might as well be green. See what it looks like and do a proper job next year if necessary.

I couldn't resist, at £20 I've ordered one to play with....

Wait for next summer. In the mean time look for a bitumen coating with WRAS approval for potable water tanks. This is the only guide to suitability. Expect the product to be more expensive as producers have to pay for the approval process. (the product may be identical with unapproved products, but you don't know) Vactan used to claim it was suitable for water tanks, not so sure about fertan, I used vactan as a bare metal treatment on rusty bits

If you are draining the tank anyway, then open it up and see what is going on inside. Did you allow the bitumen to fully cure in fresh air before sealing it up. (depending on weather conditions and ventilation it may take a long time)

sorry was 15 x 6 mm

I used single sided foam tape from http://www.lynvale.co.uk/foam-tape/single-sided-foam-tape/ Seals under compression like weed hatch. Our tank cover is in the side of the tank so always has water against it. It hasn't leaked in 2 years so far. I used 155 mm x 6 mm. Their tech people are helpful, and will cut roll to any with you require.

I queried the 'Black Jack' technical dept when the WRAS approval statement disappeared from their product and the technical data sheet. They claimed the product was no longer tested to achieve the certification. They told me the product had not changed. They also told me that therefore they could not recommend it for potable water tanks. If you find any of this that carries the certification statement it will be old stock. The culprit seems to be the cost involved in getting the certification compared to the volume of product being sold for tanks as compared to the general market, and the company looking at the bottom line.

vactan rust treatment followed by 2 coats bitumen based (trade name Blackjack) approved for potable water systems. Blow air in to ventilate if you have to climb in tank to paint it, otherwise you get a bit light headed. Leave plenty of drying time (week or more) before sealing up.

To test you can bypass the thermostat with a short length of wire across the two wires that go to the thermostat if you can find a convenient connector block (usually near the pump). The pump will then run all the time, whatever the temperature in the boat. Remember to disconnect it after the test.

Can you isolate tank from pump (inlet side of pump) and see if this stops the cycling. A (recently) previous thread poster found that this identified that the pump valves were allowing some back flow to the tank.

I was told that Craftmaster Alfa Red didn't fade as much as their other reds. If you had to use a red at least choose on that doesn't fade so much. I'm sure their customer services would advise

For the engine, you could just change oil and filters, then join RCR for a year and see how it goes. If the engine doesn't run smoothly or smokes a lot then get in an engineer. A cursory check of rubber hoses , belts and other rubber parts for signs of cracking will show up any parts likely to fail.

If you are Leicestershire area.......Debdale Wharf quoted me over the phone based on £/sq m. They have purpose built shed and equipment.

As mentioned above use plastic tube slit along the axis. If you have tube of slightly larger diameter than the hole in the ceiling, then it neatly expands to fit snugly, after compressing it and sliding it in.

Thin walled is probably also more susceptible to mechanical damage as in general boat wiring (in my experience) is not run in conduit.

As the hull sides get most of the knocks and rubs in normal use then consider the option of painting up to gunwhale on the sides with black bitumen. Then its a simple job to touch it up once a year. We were advised this option by a professional boat painter. It works for us.

If it is windy then go in forwards. Then when it is calm take it out and turn it round, and get your practice initially in good conditions. Even in light winds I roll up the cratch cover to take off some of the effect of the wind on the bow.

Seconded, with the addition of a dab of any rust converter that you already have (eg Kurust or similar) in the hole first

The Aldi '15 month matured West Country Cheddar ' is one of the best supermarket Cheddars that you will find for the price

Both my Victorinox knives have tweezers, and yes they are very useful

You need to look at some of the cycle lamps with lithium rechargeable batteries, there are some that adapt easily to head torch mode. Aldi had a very good one recently cost about £12 (branded as Bikemate) and very compact. Seems to be a re-branded Moon lamp - excellent light output