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Found 21 results

  1. Hello, I'm current moored up in a marina and the boat will be kept here for the rest of the winter. It's fairly windy and I've just noticed my rope fenders are rubbing against the side of my boat and causing paint damage, so I'm hoping for advice please! - any pro tips from you experienced boaters on tying onto a pontoon to avoid damage? Keep the ropes a bit lose or tighten them? - I use rope fenders, should I get some little rubber ones? - how should I best care for the exposed metal where the paint damage has occurred? It's a good few inches above the waterline so maybe I can just move the fenders and repaint? If anyone knows any existing forums on this topic I'd appreciate a link to that too! Many thanks, Bex
  2. A couple of weeks ago I stocked up with half a dozen sacks of Excel, stuck them on the roof, as I had done in the past, and was surprised to find when I took one down that there was a patch where the top coat of paint had been stripped off. (Wrinkled and softened) Plenty of people seem to store coal on the roof, presumably without problems. It's Rylard enamel paint. What causes this, and is there any way of stopping it?
  3. I know this is a bit of a long shot (asking people about paint from photos), but does anyone know what kind of paint this is on the sides of my GRP? I'm hoping that maybe next year I can scrape it off and paint it, but I'm not sure if that's enamel, household gloss (I doubt it), or is it anti-fouling or some other special type of paint?
  4. Over many years I have painted ramsheads, swan necks or Z irons ( take your pick of preferred title) with stripes. I’ve worked out an almost foolproof method of setting out, which works for me. Until recently, I’ve never given much thought as to the direction of the stripes, my only preference being that the spirals are gentle rather than tight wrapped. In a recent Facebook post, one highly experienced boater with boat feet in the traditionalist/working boat camp, suggested that in working days, the direction of the spiral was a visual reminder of the direction of rotation of the blades. This is a new one to me...have any others of you come across this idea? Imagining myself standing behind the counter of a motor, I’m not sure I could see which way the spirals ran, right or left....over to you.
  5. Is it possible to tint International Toplac (gloss enamel) paint using another (non-Toplac) paint, or something from B&Q? Most websites show Toplac Snow White as having a tint of cream to it. Bought it, but (on delivery) it looks pure white to me. I'd like to tint it (just a touch) with something if possible.
  6. We are looking to paint the interior wood panels of our boat but don't know what type of paint to use... should we avoid water based paint due to condensation? Any tips on the best type to use (and preparation) would be gratefully received! Thanks, Becky
  7. Hi , I arranged for my boat to be hydro blasted and then coated with interzone 954. Today I went to check on progress just at the point when the guys were unloading the paint to discover they were planning to put hempadur on first and the interzone on top. I explained this was not what I had agreed with the boss and was expecting interzone only at 500 microns. I was told that they had experienced adhesion problems with interzone and now routinely used hempadur 2 pack on the ginger metal and then put the interzone on top. Does anyone have an informed view on the suitability of this? I'm totally out of my depth, It's not a cheap job and I need it to last. Thanks Simone
  8. Hi. We are carrying out a partial refit of our narrowboat. At present the shell is lined with varnished and veneered 3-ply and we intend to paint the interior an off-white so that it doesn't feel like the 1970's. We're pretty new to this, although not stupid! So far we have sanded and then wood-fillered any holes and rough parts, and then re-sanded. Any areas that are a little worse for wear around windows we have sanded a bit more aggressively, covered with a wood-rot treatment, wood fillered if necessary, and then finally roughened up a bit with sandpaper so that the undercoat/primer can take hold. We have used a damp proof white emulsion undercoat (Wickes own brand), and then plan to cover that with a silk or matte finish top coat. Does this sound like a decent course of action? I'm presuming the top coat should not be water-based? Can anyone suggest a good paint type to choose from that's available in somewhere like Wickes or B&Q? We have only completed one room so far, and then it occurred to me that maybe we could have gone with a one-coat (combined primer & topcoat) wood paint, thus saving time, and possibly money. The boat (65ft 1998 narrowboat) is not damp, but a damp-proof undercoat/primer seemed like a good idea to us at the time. Any thoughts would be much appreciated!!
  9. Hi. I need my roof treating. It has some rust areas - not too much but I'm about to place some semi-flexible solars and so need the roof A1 before fixing. I've been offered a quote using paints supplied by Chemco International. In particular, these: http://marine.chemcoint.com/products/applications/topsides-and-boottop.html I'm wondering if folks here have any thoughts on these paints. Many thanks.
  10. This autumn I have been mostly... painting my boat. It's been going very well. I have used the Jotun conceal which is a thick paint that dries quickly - like cellulose only apparently it is xylene based - dunno what the difference is. Anyway, the first coat covers very well and the second leaves a good thick finish. I've been using a 4" roller and the finish is basically a consistent rollered style as you would expect. I think another coat or two and I could afford to cut it with some strong rubbing compound (I mean, without risking going right through it) to get a perfect finish. The great thing is I can add coats next year as they say (of Pioneer, which is another xylene based topcoat) "It overcoats with future coats of Pioneer Topcoat very well, without the need for rubbing down." Just as well as I'm not quite sure about the colour tbh. I even took the time to run filler neatly over the welds. Just the stern and gunnels to do now
  11. Hello boaters, This spring / summer I want to finally paint my boat. I'm thinking about changing the colour, something less traditional like maybe teal or a warm yellow, and was wondering how to go about this. Ideally I'd go to a shop (in London or the south), look at lots of different brands and pick a colour based on what I see. Looking at the colour ranges online doesn't give me enough confidence to go ahead and order, I'd like to see them in person. Can anyone recommend a physical shop or chandlery who stocks lots of different brands and colours? Plan B is to knock on people's boats as soon as I see a colour I like. But would be good to compare. Thanks
  12. Hi I am starting to repaint my narrowboat. Having watched John Barnard video on youtube and http://narrowboats-freyja-and-christina.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/hired-scabbler.html I am looking at hiring or buying a scabbler to remove the paint. Has anyone used one? if so any tips re model, replacing any parts? Has anyone purchased one, if so any tips re model, replacing any parts? Thanks
  13. Hello, My 65ft 2007 narrowboat is now in need for some re-painting especially on the roof and near gunwales where the usual bruising through locks happens. In general the paint is good condition if a bit faded and i only have small areas of 1-3 cms which needs fixing. Can anyone help me out with advice? What is the best way to do it and which material is the best to use? I have found several articles about full re paint but not so much about fixing existing paint. I am also considering adding bow markings - my boat is painfully featureless! Any thoughts on preparing the area to be painted over? Many thanks for all your amazing advice. Best Zsolt
  14. As a traditional boat owner for nearly 10 years we found one of the most difficult and time consuming taskes was boat paint preparation. 4 years ago, Our boat cost the best part of £6,000 to be stripped to bare metal and repainted. One of the major contributors to the costs was labour and how time consuming the paint removal was, this took over 2 weeks and still it wasn't done to my fussy standards. I found areas around screws and such you could only get in so close, same as getting into tight areas even with with special tools, it was almost impossible. and I wanted perfection, as I was paying top dollar. Sadly because some of the original paint was left and surface preparation could have been better, we feel the boat will require more work as it's starting to show signs of rust and paint flaking, where the substrate had not been correctly keyed to take the new paint. So I may well have come up with a plan to produce a perfect paint preparation application that is eco friendly , dust free, and completely mobile, I can strip my complete boat in less than three days, and I mean complete, down to bare metal in all the nooks and crannies as well. The system was initially created for my Gate business in my workshop but I may make it mobile to take on my boat restoration again this year. the benefits I can see are substantially reducing the prep time, speeding up turnaround of boat being painted by the company, ensuring a complete and proper strip to bare metal, and leaving a good key for new paint to adhere too . but most importantly having my boat back in the water up to two weeks quicker than the last time. i would be happy to advise/help on anything to do with paint surface preparation. if I can save time, it must be a good thing? getting my wife to agree is another..
  15. Hi All I am now busy paint-scraping in prep for my repaint, and have been reading all the threads on different types of paints etc, but a fellow moorer told me to paint my back deck with Hammerite. Sounds OK to me but won't it be slippy??? I painted my garage door with it a few years ago and it's dead shiny
  16. We have just brought a new softwood gangplank as our last was so rotten it crumbled. My question is, what is the best paint to use to prolong the life of this one. Primer, undercoat, brands that are good??? Also any advise on how to make it none slip would be greatly apprciated. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hi, Anybody used this as a top-coat? http://www.johnstonestrade.com/product-range/product.aspx?product=Smooth_Metal_Paint They do a 2-pack floor epoxy which says OK for steel too - might be interesting for a back-to-metal job. Cheers Patrick
  18. I saw this picture elsewhere on the forum. I think I've found The One. Colour, that is. Well, The Two, as there's coach lines. http://www.flickr.com/photos/keepingup/7073220945/ Any ideas at all what colour the paint is?
  19. Hello a paint question for you all please, we are in process with a new build, the paintwork is just being applied. Has anyone here had any paint protection applied after the top coat, either as a clear varnish or along the lines as used on cars. Mainly to help protect colour and help prevent deterioration from the elements etc. I'd be interested to here your experience and if you though it is worth the cost. Thank you.
  20. Hello all, I bought my first boat in the summer. It had some astroturf on the top which I took off asap. The rust was not that bad, but I was advised in my local chandlery that I could wire brush it out and spot paint it with some zinc phosphate marine paint. So I did. This now means that I have grey patches over my cabin, some gloopy. I could sand them a bit and paint them green (the same colour as my boat) but as the old paint is quite faded it would show up as a contrast. The other prospect is repainting the whole cabin in April, but that sounds quite intimidating as I have a 60 foot boat. Does anyone have any advice about how to spot paint a pre-existing old surface whilst getting a respectable outcome? Many thanks Andy
  21. This may have been covered elsewhere if so apologies in advance. I have rust spots/bubbles appearing beneath 9 year old paintwork. Before I go the whole hog and repaint, what is the best rust treatment to apply to the cleaned metal. Have tried Kurerust from Halfords but it was next to useless (sorry Halfords) and rust came back worse after 1 winter. I did overcoat with red primer and have been told that as this is porous I might have made it worse. Any advice appreciated.
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