Jump to content

born2zsolt

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    25

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Occupation
    designer
  • Boat Name
    Rocinante
  • Boat Location
    London

born2zsolt's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (2/12)

0

Reputation

  1. born2zsolt
    Hello, After owning our lovely 65 ft narrowboat for few years now we decided to sell her, we found a buyer and realized that not sure what are the next steps. The buyer will have it surveyed, and I will take the boat to the dry dock but not sure about when and on what conditions the holding deposit should be paid. how much? In the unlikely event of surveyor finds something untoward and he wants to reneg the price but we don't agree - what happens to the holding deposit? is it refundable? is there a description of the all process? I googled and googled but found nothing. Thanks!!
  2. born2zsolt
    Thanks, i tightened jubilee clips but that interestingly enough made dripping worse. I think i will ask for professional help at this point!
  3. born2zsolt
    Thank you for all your amazing shared knowledge! I have located a leak where thick pipe joins keel tank. Another jubilee clip (there are 2 there already) maybe could improve or solve the solution although i am not dure how i will reach there. Or you reckon cutting off end of tube and reinstalling would the way to go? I am quite a bit bothered by the thought of the underside of my enginebay steadily rusting away. This being said all my 3 boats had water in bilge- maybe it is very bad practice.
  4. born2zsolt
    Interesting! I tend to top up my cooling water when my finger can't reach the water in the header tank and I don't fill it up all the way. I am doing it because after that point I have no way of telling how are water levels, and i haven't got a gauge telling me water levels or temperature. I have one sign to show for water overheating but trying out if water boils over and engine overheating sounds like a dangerous game!
  5. born2zsolt
    my engine needs about half a liter of water top up every time after cruising. Is this ok or too much? I was convinced until now that water of an inch accumulating in bilge comes dripping through prop, but recently i had that repacked and tightened up, so that is no longer the case and I was happy that from now on i will have a dry bilge! I still have water in bilge and i don't like it. So if cooling water is leaking how to stop it? The engine was serviced recently in Uxbridge, but mechanic did not spot it, is it something he should have? And if yes can I ask him to come back and fix it at nominal or no charge? Thanks all for yr help.
  6. born2zsolt
    Asking questions here is research. And more than that because this was exactly what I wanted to know, but now i don't have to ask it! It always amuses me how many people sneer at more or less stationary CCers like myself living and CCing in mostly London. This awful housing shortage is not fun for anyone but has vastly increased the number of people living on boats (aka linear housing) who will increasingly get out of their comfort zones of inner cities and will create a new generation of boaters. I always wanted to live on a narrowboat for the fun of it but I only made the jump when there was no other alternative (only living with flatmates well into my 30ies). And it was such a good jump! Zsolt
  7. born2zsolt
    So i bought a 120L flexible tank and the saga goes on as last one month we run out of water 2 times, which was quite a surprise!The flexible tank will sit nicely in the bow locker once i cleared out all the rubbish accumulated in there over the years. As it will be just a bit over the main water tank syphoning might not work. So now i am looking for a nice small reliable water pump which will pump it from the secondary tank to the main. Any thoughts on what to shop? Tanks!
  8. born2zsolt
    OK, tried that, i was bleeding and letting out water for about 20 mins just to be on the safe side. While doing that i watched few youtube videos about plumbing and they did seem to suggest that you can also have an airlock which would come undone when bleeding through bleeding nipple but you have to take out a whole bleeding nozzle and connect hose to release air/water (this is after isolating the radiator then opening the in and out valves one at a time). So this is what i will do this weekend, as although the splashing in radiator improved but the lower side of the rad still felt cold for quite long time. As i understood it it is crucial for the rad to work effectively to get the lower bits heating up fully as this will generate the airflux through ribs.
  9. born2zsolt
    Interesting! So how did you figure out that it is leaking into stove? Could you feel dampness when the fire was not in inside the stove?
  10. born2zsolt
    The system has been in place, but we bought the boat last spring so we never used it very heavily. I don't think it is overheating, the thermostat controlling the pump is set to 50C. Ii used to push out the water from header tent when it was set to higher temperature, but not any more. The pipe is installed before the back boiler inlet close to the stove, while the header tank is on the far end of the boat. Am i right to think that if it is drawing air in then it should also leak the same place? How can you find such blockage? Interesting. I will give it a go. I was convinced that the water has to move in order to push out air from all nooks and crannies.
  11. born2zsolt
    Thanks for all the responses. I bought a flexible tank but i still didn't fitted it in, as somehow we use much less water than i thought we do, maybe because on this boat we have a morco instant water heater, so you don't end up running water for 2 minutes waiting for the hot water to arrive from far end before you can take a shower.
  12. born2zsolt
    Thanks! I ended up getting a guy who did an amazing job on the roof, it took him 2 weeks of sanding, then kurusting of patches, of what i had many more then i thought i would, then primer on patches, 2 layers of base coat and then 3 layers of top coat. I am so glad that he did it. It looks properly amazing.
  13. born2zsolt
    Hi I have a Morso 1430 + thermostat + waterpump + 3 radiators + header tank set up on my 65 ft narrowboat, and in the last 3 weeks i was having issues with it. It feels like that it keeps loosing water and no amount of bleeding can sort it out. It works for 2-3 days after bleeding it, then it starts to play up again, making the pump struggle slightly, sloshing noises in the radiator, banging noise in the pipes. I looked around and fixed one minor leak at radiator tap but the problem still persists. Has anyone got an idea how to fix it? Many thanks Zsolt
  14. born2zsolt
    Hello, My 65ft 2007 narrowboat is now in need for some re-painting especially on the roof and near gunwales where the usual bruising through locks happens. In general the paint is good condition if a bit faded and i only have small areas of 1-3 cms which needs fixing. Can anyone help me out with advice? What is the best way to do it and which material is the best to use? I have found several articles about full re paint but not so much about fixing existing paint. I am also considering adding bow markings - my boat is painfully featureless! Any thoughts on preparing the area to be painted over? Many thanks for all your amazing advice. Best Zsolt
  15. born2zsolt
    Thanks all, I think I will go ahead and buy one. I wonder if i can syphon backup tank to main or I will have to install a small pump. Any thoughts on small energy efficient pumps?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.