SR3 with LH150

[Leo1973]

I have a SR3 engine with LH150 gear box in 2003 it had £6988.66 (previous owner) spend on the engine from Starline Narrowboat.

Boat has only been serviced since (oil filter change) since. I now seem to losing power sometimes when going along, anyone got any ideas what it could be?

I found the gear box and drive shaft loss, what else need to be tented up?

Someone said it could be diesel, but last service from boat yard (April) said filter was clean. I have not cleaned out the diesel just been adding more to the tanks (double diesel tank). The boat has not been used that much as been re-fitting it. Would like to know more about my engine anyone recommended any good web sites or books?

 

Worked carried out in 2003:

Complete strip and inspection

Crankshaft re-ground

Crankshaft main bearing and big end shells replaced

one con rod, barrel and piston replaced,

Two barrels honed & new ring set fitted

Bell housing threads helicoiled

Inlet & exhaust valves replaced and seats re-cut

Valve guide and seals replaced

stretched studs replaced

oil seals, bearing and gaskets replaced

Lub oil pipe repaired

Main fuel line repaired

injectors and injector pumps re-conditioned

Engine re-built, head shimmed and fuel pumps re-timed

respray

New alternator mounting bracket fabricated

Materials:

6 studs

4 seals

4 seals

1 gasket

2 bearings

2 bearings

3 bearings

1 bearing

1 oil seal

1 felt seal

1 join set

3 inlets valves

3 exhaust valves

3 valves guides

3 valves guides

1 barrel

1 piston

2 ringset

4 studs

2 studs

12 nuts

2 thrust washers

1 joint

1 con rod

Crank re-ground

2 barrels honed

valve guides fitted and seats re-cut

3 injector pumps re-conditioned

3 injectors serviced

Started motor

Alternator

 

Complete strip and inspection of Lister LH150 gearbox

replaced all bearings, seals and gasket

Machine new boss for output gear in reduction box

fit new out shaft and key

fit new epicycles gear assembly

fit new clutch cone and band

re-built gearbox and adjust forward and revers clearance

respray

Materials:

1 clutch body

1 clutch cone

1 brake band

4 pinion shaft

6 pinion shafts

1 clutch body bush

2 pinions

1 yoke bearing

1 reduction gear shaft

2 shaft keys

1 set reduction gear bearing

1 case bearing

1 half coupling

1 hydraulic pump shaft

1 set join and seals

 

Machining of new output gear boss.

 

Also had new batteries and started motor since.

[bottle]

Hi and welcome

 

A diesel engine will only loose power for two reasons, lack of fuel or lack of air.

 

Rather a sweeping statement,

 

Just because the (fuel) filter was clean in April does not mean it is now, check for fuel leaks in all pipework, if you have an air filter check that.

 

Those that know your type of engine will be along soon and will no doubt give some more specific things to look at.

[twinpot]

Hello Leo.

If your engine is running ok,then it may only be leaves round your prop,put it in reverse now and again to clear them, and see if it makes any difference.

[Leo1973]

[/img]

 

Prop OK, Thanks very much, will try changing the fuel fitter and air filter do I buy new ones or just clean them?

Can any one tell me were my air filter is? I have attached a picture of the engine.

How can I check the fuel as it a double tanks.

Thanks

Edited October 9, 2011 by Leo1973

[Chris Pink]

 

The air cleaner is the grey cylinder just visible top right.

 

and the engine fuel filter is just visible to the left of it. There may well be another also. Don't buy lister fuel filters, go to a local car parts place, FRAM PH3614 is most probably the one for the engine filter.

 

When you change the filters, check for any sign of water or black goo.

 

Make sure you are aware of the bleeding procedure before you change the filters. (manual page 30, some quaint English but it's all there)

 

 

Do you have a manual for the engine?

 

www.bluemoment.com/manuals/lister_man.pdf

 

 

losing power sometimes..... more detail please? missing a few beats? trying to stop? colour of exhaust smoke?

Edited October 9, 2011 by Chris Pink

[Biggles]

Hi and welcome

 

A diesel engine will only loose power for two reasons, lack of fuel or lack of air.

 

.

 

Hmm! I'll add another....... An air cooled Lister will lose power if it over heats. Easily spotted by the amount of black exhaust smoke produced

[Leo1973]

Open the oil bath wiped out and refilled. (How should this be cleaned? With oil?)

Have opened the lift pump and found some black goo. Wiped out and refilled with diesel. (how should this be cleaned? With diesel?)

I opened the fuel filter and the fuel filter seem clean. (will order a new one)

Engine ran for a few minutes, then stopped.

So I need to prim?

How do I do this?

I open the screw on the lift pump and the 3 screws on the filter?

On page 30 not sure how to do a, b, c and d???

 

Engine smoke is white, I think it is the fuel.

 

If the priming does not work think I will need it looked at. Anyone know of any good Mechanics in Reading as don't trust any of the local boat yards.

What the RCR like?

[Iain_S]

I've never needed a,b,c or d on our canal society's Lister SR2. We have a pipe from tank, Remote filter, fuel pump, Lister engine mounted filter. When changing filters, I change the remote one and start the engine. When the engine stops, change engine mounted filter, slacken bleed screw on filter outlet side, de-compress, and spin engine over on starter until fuel comes out bleed screw, then do up bleed screw and start engine.

 

However, you mention black goo in fuel pump. This could be the dreaded diesel bug, and so there may be more in the system, restricting fuel flow. (Not sure if this would cause white smoke, though) Well worth cleaning the pump anyway, especially the valves. (A small paint brush is handy for this) I'd use paraffin or petrol for the cleaning, as they seem to do a better job.

 

My experiences of RCR have all been positive (leaking gearbox on Copperkins, annual engine inspections on Bluebell).

 

Iain

[Radiomariner]

White smoke usually indicates unburnt fuel. That black gue may have got to one of your injectors. BTW looking at the picture it looks as if the compression levers are in the vertical position. Have they been set up properly?

I have suffered myself (my boat not me!) from diesel bug. On my Lister SR3 the fine mesh filter in the top of the lift pump was always the first to clog up.

[Tony Brooks]

[/img]

 

Prop OK, Thanks very much, will try changing the fuel fitter and air filter do I buy new ones or just clean them?

Can any one tell me were my air filter is? I have attached a picture of the engine.

How can I check the fuel as it a double tanks.

Thanks

 

 

Unless you have tried what Twinpot said there is no way you can know it is not leaves around the prop. If you stop and go down the weed-hatch they will have floated away and the prop will seem fine. At this time of year leaves are probably the most likely cause of intermittent "loss or power" and if you do not clear them it just goes on and on.

[Chris Pink]

Open the oil bath wiped out and refilled. (How should this be cleaned? With oil?)

Have opened the lift pump and found some black goo. Wiped out and refilled with diesel. (how should this be cleaned? With diesel?)

I opened the fuel filter and the fuel filter seem clean. (will order a new one)

Engine ran for a few minutes, then stopped.

So I need to prim?

How do I do this?

I open the screw on the lift pump and the 3 screws on the filter?

On page 30 not sure how to do a, b, c and d???

 

Engine smoke is white, I think it is the fuel.

 

If the priming does not work think I will need it looked at. Anyone know of any good Mechanics in Reading as don't trust any of the local boat yards.

What the RCR like?

 

"Open the oil bath wiped out and refilled. (How should this be cleaned? With oil?)"

 

not too much - very important otherwise it'll end up in the engine.

 

"how should this be cleaned? With diesel?)"

 

with a rag should be sufficient.

 

There should be a bleed screw on top of the fuel filter, this is the most important when the system is emptied as the fuel filter takes quite a lot so open this and pump with the lift pump until the bubbles stop

 

when you start anew, keep the speed control wide open until the engine races.

 

and then, hopefully, a b c and d won't be necessary.

 

if they are (engine still doesnt go)

 

remove the two nuts on each rocker cover (by the decompressors) and waggle the cover until it comes free - don't use tools for this other than, maybe, a rubber mallet or a bt of wood. Then you will see the injector with a large nut. (this is referred to in b ). c and d then become obvious. "start position" is mainly for lister controls so read "wide open"

 

"heard to inject" is a creaking noise, once heard again should be obvious.

 

 

from the post above, it's important you understand what the decompressors do and which way is which - in your picture towards is open away is shut (see page 22)

 

RCR pretty expensive. I think you are nearly there and a mechanic cost won't be necessary, maybe a boater in Reading? it's very straightforward really and once done means that you can cope yourself when you run out of fuel. If you do get a mechanic make sure they walk you through the bleeding procedure as this is basic and necessary knowledge.

Edited November 2, 2011 by Chris Pink

[Leo1973]

Thanks very much for your help will try on Sat.

I think I need to fit a pre-filter. Has anyone done this?

See phones where about would I attached the pre filter? as the bulk head ply wall in far away will this cause problems with draw of fuel?

What filter should I get?

CAV 296 Double Fuel Filter Assembly with glass sedimenter bowl? Will a glass bowl be ok for boat safety? Think it would be nice and easy to see.

 

http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb411/ltighe123/?action=view&current=IMG_0863.jpg

 

http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb411/ltighe123/?action=view&current=IMG_0856.jpg

 

Thanks

[Radiomariner]

Thanks very much for your help will try on Sat.

I think I need to fit a pre-filter. Has anyone done this?

See phones where about would I attached the pre filter? as the bulk head ply wall in far away will this cause problems with draw of fuel?

What filter should I get?

CAV 296 Double Fuel Filter Assembly with glass sedimenter bowl? Will a glass bowl be ok for boat safety? Think it would be nice and easy to see.

 

http://s1204.photobu...nt=IMG_0863.jpg

 

http://s1204.photobu...nt=IMG_0856.jpg

 

Thanks

Glass bowl. If in the engine compartment it must be fire resistant to ISO 10088 standard (2.5 minutes at 600 deg.C) Many glass bowled filters do not meet this standard.

If you get one that does, make sure that you keep documentation. If the BSS examiner can not see or identify any markings or see proof of certification to this standard the boat will not pass the examination.

[claudia]

How do you stop an air cooled lister from over heating in the bottom of a boat please?

[Keeping Up]

How do you stop an air cooled lister from over heating in the bottom of a boat please?

 

Go slower.

[bizzard]

How do you stop an air cooled lister from over heating in the bottom of a boat please?

I noticed Ian that on the photos of your last prop problem you had no hot air outlet ducting.

Someone may be able to upload a photo of how it should be arranged for a Lister SR2.

[Proper Job]

How do you stop an air cooled lister from over heating in the bottom of a boat please?

First thing to do is make sure that the cooling fins are clear of dust and crap. That's usually the main fault.

 

Also make sure that the hot air is vented to the outside and not just recirculating within the engine compartment.

[claudia]

Hi Bizzard yes you are right it was not there but I do have a very large ducting that goes from the engine to a vent hole in the side of the boat, looks very industrial. How much do you need to remove to clean the cooling fins Proper Job and will an air gun blast it out? Sorry if I am treading on anybodys thread but it seemed a good place to ask.

[bizzard]

Hi Bizzard yes you are right it was not there but I do have a very large ducting that goes from the engine to a vent hole in the side of the boat, looks very industrial. How much do you need to remove to clean the cooling fins Proper Job and will an air gun blast it out? Sorry if I am treading on anybodys thread but it seemed a good place to ask.

Its important that the ducting is close up to the cylinder head area of the engine on the port side.

If you can squirt some detergent in around the fins first,yes you may blast some out with compressed air.Its really a much more envolved job,removing inlet and exhaust manifolds and tin plating ect. You can run the engine to normal temp and then pour in to the flywheel fan a strong mix of washing up liquid and water heated to roughly engines temp this will be thrown up and around the fins,this will shift some,keep engine running long enough to dry it all out afterwards though.

But i've a suspicion that that engines not been long in your boat so it might be clean in there.

[Proper Job]

Hi Bizzard yes you are right it was not there but I do have a very large ducting that goes from the engine to a vent hole in the side of the boat, looks very industrial. How much do you need to remove to clean the cooling fins Proper Job and will an air gun blast it out? Sorry if I am treading on anybodys thread but it seemed a good place to ask.

The first thing to check will be that the air inlet grill is clear. This is the 'mesh' between the flywheel and the gearbox. this is often blocked with leaves, dog hair, etc, etc. Air is drawn in through here and then ducted around the engine before being ducted to the outside of the boat.

 

Ideally, you should try to remove as much of the ducting around the engine as possible to gain access to the cooling fins. Often, a quick blast with an airline is not enough. You will find the space between the fins gummed up with an oil/grease/dust/dirt goo. Lister did supply a special tool with some engines to clean this space. If you haven't got one, use your imagination - an old hacksaw blade or a bent welding rod.

 

I can't stress this enough........... Double check the integrity of the ducting from the engine to the outside. Nine times out of ten you'll find a split in the ducting somewhere that is allowing the hot air to recirculate back to the engine. Put your hand over the external vent and make sure that there is a good airflow.

 

edit - cross posted with Bizzard

Edited November 22, 2011 by Proper Job

[springy]

First thing to do is make sure that the cooling fins are clear of dust and crap. That's usually the main fault.

 

Also make sure that the hot air is vented to the outside and not just recirculating within the engine compartment.

I'd probably put those two the other way round - first make sure youre getting rid of the hot air & not just

 

recirculating, if that is all ok or makes no difference - then examine the state of the fins - if its just dust

 

then an airline will get rid of most of it without stripping too much of the cowling, if it is a mixture of

 

dust/oil/fibres and has been there some time you will need to remove the cowling and make yourself

 

a fin scraper as per the manual.

 

 

 

 

springy

Edited November 22, 2011 by springy

[bizzard]

The first thing to check will be that the air inlet grill is clear. This is the 'mesh' between the flywheel and the gearbox. this is often blocked with leaves, dog hair, etc, etc. Air is drawn in through here and then ducted around the engine before being ducted to the outside of the boat.

 

Ideally, you should try to remove as much of the ducting around the engine as possible to gain access to the cooling fins. Often, a quick blast with an airline is not enough. You will find the space between the fins gummed up with an oil/grease/dust/dirt goo. Lister did supply a special tool with some engines to clean this space. If you haven't got one, use your imagination - an old hacksaw blade or a bent welding rod.

 

I can't stress this enough........... Double check the integrity of the ducting from the engine to the outside. Nine times out of ten you'll find a split in the ducting somewhere that is allowing the hot air to recirculate back to the engine. Put your hand over the external vent and make sure that there is a good airflow.

 

edit - cross posted with Bizzard

I don't think Ian will mind me saying so but he's got a bit of a lash up there,i don't think he's got flywheel grills,so of course he must be very careful not to drop anything in there.I'd get some wire mesh and make grills for it,with tin snips it wouldn't take long.

[claudia]

What you like Mr Bizzard saying I have a pile of crap, I will have you know it has a full guard over the fly wheel end! but to be honest you are perfectly right in your observations, but its my pile of crap and it keeps me out of the pub. As always much appreciate your advice cheers, Ian.

[bizzard]

What you like Mr Bizzard saying I have a pile of crap, I will have you know it has a full guard over the fly wheel end! but to be honest you are perfectly right in your observations, but its my pile of crap and it keeps me out of the pub. As always much appreciate your advice cheers, Ian.

No its just a bit unusual that's all.Did you get the prop sorted.

Anyway try the washing up liquid thing and compressed air,but make sure the ducting is in place and close up tight to the engine although you'll probably get away without it during the winter but not summer.

All these little jobs will keep you out of the pub.

[claudia]

Now your just being polite, yes I did sort the prop out I got a 17 x 12 left hand spent a day down the weed hatch and got it fitted a very satisfying (can't spell) result many thanks.