Drilling for Tiller Pin

[Rick-n-Jo]

Neither my brass tiller tube or swan neck (Z- iron, to use an older term) have been drilled to fit a tiller pin. Any ideas how to drill these, and be sure of getting the holes square and in line? Don't really want a wonky tiller pin, although I've seen plenty of boats that have!

 

I suppose taking the whole thing off and finding an engineer with a big pillar drill is best, but would rather not have to do that. Some kind of jig, perhaps?

 

Rick

[Guest User]

If you're not happy doing it by eye, then I reckon you're right, take it off and get it to an engineer with a big pillar drill (you may find its a bit of a struggle to get the swan neck off; have gear pullers, blowtorches etc on standby) .... or maybe one of these could be persuaded to sit securely on the swan neck with some addtional clamping to stabilize it ?(CLICKY)

 

Edited August 9, 2009 by Graham!

[BEngo]

Neither my brass tiller tube or swan neck (Z- iron, to use an older term) have been drilled to fit a tiller pin. Any ideas how to drill these, and be sure of getting the holes square and in line? Don't really want a wonky tiller pin, although I've seen plenty of boats that have!

 

I suppose taking the whole thing off and finding an engineer with a big pillar drill is best, but would rather not have to do that. Some kind of jig, perhaps?

 

Rick

 

 

If it goes wonky just hang your rope on it so no-one can see!

 

N

[musicman]

Ours was drilled when on the boat. You need two helpers - one sat on the boat roof ahead and one on the bank to the side. It takes a while, but I doubt going to the hassle of removing the tiller etc and doing it on the bench would be any easier!

[Rick-n-Jo]

If it goes wonky just hang your rope on it so no-one can see!

 

N

 

 

That's just wrong in so many ways

[Timleech]

How I would suggest going about it, if you're not supremely confident:-

 

Drill through one side only of the brass tube to full size. That's much easier off the boat if you have access to a drill press.

Then put the tiller in place, and with help from a friend or two to tell you when it's straight, using the same size drill, drill enough to make a firm mark in the steel.

Then remove the tiller and drill through the steel, again with guidance from your helpers. Use a good sharp drill, you might find it easier to start with a smaller bit of maybe 4 or 5mm. Then drill the steel out to full size for the tiller pin.

Then put the tiller back, and with the full size drill work through your two existing holes to drill the bottom wall of the brass tube. DON'T try drilling the brass with the smaller pilot drill first, opening up holes in brass can be a nightmare for the unwary.

 

HTH

Tim

[Rick-n-Jo]

Thanks for suggestions so far.

 

So consensus is

1) remove from boat, workshop job, accurate but potentially a major faff!

2) drill by eye, actually by several peoples eyes.

 

Not sure either solution is ideal, so had a Google (I know I should have done that first). Would something like this drill guide do the job? Seems to be the same as the JML available very cheaply on eBay (bit put off by JML, = cheap gimmicky to me) A more expensive one from Wolfcraft cheapest here

Edited August 9, 2009 by Rick-n-Jo

[charles123]

Thanks for suggestions so far.

 

So consensus is

1) remove from boat, workshop job, accurate but potentially a major faff!

2) drill by eye, actually by several peoples eyes.

 

Not sure either solution is ideal, so had a Google (I know I should have done that first). Would something like this drill guide do the job? Seems to be the same as the JML available very cheaply on eBay (bit put off by JML, = cheap gimmicky to me) A more expensive one from Wolfcraft cheapest here

 

when I drilled mine I did it by eye, and as the tiller is a hinged one it was even more important to get it straight. One thing to avoid is the drill breaking off, my 5mm pilot dill did but it was just coming through the bottom when it did so I was able to belt it out from below with a punch

I drilled from the top only and kept stopping to clear the swarf and taking a look, trouble is once you go off line I doubt its easy to get it back again

 

Charles

[LEO]

Hi,

 

Consider buying a carvan levelling spirit level which will give you the level in 2 directions, strap it to the drill and have another level on the boat, get all three bubbles level and then drill carefully - the hole should be straight and level.

 

Have seen a couple not drilled square and they look awful.

 

But for perfection I would remove the parts and take them to a good machine shop - not sure where you are on the system but there is a good one in Aylesbury a short distance from the basin.

 

Best of luck.

 

Leo

[RLWP]

If your tiller has the wooden handle retained with a screw (like ours does), make sure the screw is on the bottom before you start. It looks better that way.

 

Richard

[WotEver]

Would something like this drill guide do the job? Seems to be the same as the JML available very cheaply on eBay (bit put off by JML, = cheap gimmicky to me)

 

Yes, that would work just fine. I was about to Google one for you as my suggestion when I saw your post. The Axminster one you linked to is identical in every respect apart from packaging to the JML one. It will keep the drill perpendicular in the fore-aft plane, but you'll need someone stood on the top step to tell you when you're vertical from side to side. It'll also virtually eliminate the chance of breaking the drill bit (unless you press insanely hard).

 

As previously suggested, start the hole with a 4mm drill and then enlarge it to full size once you have the pilot through as far as the (short) 4mm drill will allow.

 

Go slowly, lubricate the hole with oil as you drill, and clear the swarf regularly. Simples.

 

T

[Rick-n-Jo]

Thank you everyone for tips and advice. Went the JML drill guide route (£3-50 off eBay) with a couple of home made wooden v-blocks to clamp it up. Spent ages dithering and measuring before finally taking the plunge, but fortunately all went well and the job's a good 'un.

 

One more small step nearer to having a narrowboat!

 

rick

 

 

[Malarky]

Are you certain that's straight, looks like it leans to the starboard slightly!

 

No seriously, looking good. Are you going to put those "barbars" shop syle spirals down the bar?

[DHutch]

Very smart!

[OptedOut]

When we did ours we drilled a metal V-block at home (pillar drill job), clamped it to the tiller as per the wood V-block pics and drilled through guided by the V-block hole.