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Window Frames -Screw em or screw em?


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1 minute ago, Flyboy said:

Forget it. The pitch of an M10 bolt is too fine and the thread depth is too shallow.

I was just trying an m10 tap in softwood(its the only size tap I have), to see if I could tap it.If I do tap the wood it will be m5 or m6

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4 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

Why would you want to tap wood (apart from a xylophone!), wood screws were invented to securing things to wood, why try to re-invent the wheel?

So I don't have to drill more holes in the cabin side to secure the battens that are currently held in with the screws.I would need to do this if I use machine screws instead of woodscrews. The battens beneath may not be good enough to excepts a bigger screw, hence the machine screw idea. Simples (not).

ETA I spose I could plug the wood beneath with a wooden plug and glue and use the same size screws as I currently have.

Edited by rusty69
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2 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

So I don't have to drill more holes in the cabin side to secure the battens that are currently held in with the screws.I would need to do this if I use machine screws instead of woodscrews. The battens beneath may not be good enough to excepts a bigger screw, hence the machine screw idea. Simples (not)

Ok well, still a bad idea, sorry! Just use wood screws!

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1 hour ago, rusty69 said:

Anyone tried tapping softwood?

 

ETA. Just tried tapping an m10 hole in a piece of pine. Looks pretty good. I wonder if it will be good enough! any thoughts anyone?

I wouldnt tap it and just drill out to 8mm and screw straight into the timber. it does work as i have done it but with M6 machine screw. Not sure how good a grip it will give though for pulling in the frame. Experiment  time :)

 

 

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2 minutes ago, W+T said:

I wouldnt tap it and just drill out to 8mm and screw straight into the timber. it does work as i have done it but with M6 machine screw. Not sure how good a grip it will give though for pulling in the frame. Experiment  time :)

 

 

Thanks Wayne . Have decided to drill holes in cabin to hold battens and drill and tap cabin to except m6 flanged button head machine screws.

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3 minutes ago, W+T said:

How about if you can and dont mind the look or can cover them, not to obtrusive though. 

Use these Interscrews on the inside and which ever SS machine screw head type on the outside

 

http://www.interscrew.co.uk/

 

Pull it nice and tight with M6 screws.

There is no access to the back (inside) of the window frame as it is covered with the wooden frame, so not sure they would work. Thanks though

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12 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

There is no access to the back (inside) of the window frame as it is covered with the wooden frame, so not sure they would work. Thanks though

I was thinking more to get screws to go all the way through to the other side to the Interscrews on the inner cabin side. 

 

 

4 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Also known as sex bolts !!!

You been on the cut to long i think lol

 

 

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2 minutes ago, W+T said:
16 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

 

I was thinking more to get screws to go all the way through to the other side to the Interscrews on the inner cabin side. 

Ah. I see what you mean.Yes it would work, not sure it would look too good though. 20 holes per window too!

2 minutes ago, Neil Smith said:

Drill the cabin side to 5.5mm and use 5mm stainless or brass wood screws, you could do as you said and plug the holes in the battens first.

Neil

Yep.They would need plugging with wood, or perhaps injecting epoxy and drilling. Will go down the drill and tap route and see how it goes. 

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2 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Ah. I see what you mean.Yes it would work, not sure it would look too good though. 20 holes per window too!

Yep.They would need plugging with wood, or perhaps injecting epoxy and drilling. Will go down the drill and tap route and see how it goes. 

Head banging annoying with a twisted wrist and no way of lifting a pint after a few hundred tapped holes lol. 

 

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1 minute ago, W+T said:

Head banging annoying with a twisted wrist and no way of lifting a pint after a few hundred tapped holes lol. 

 

Its only two leaking at the moment, so I will tackle them as and when they leak. Hopefully two a year = 40 holes= well earned pint with a straw (if Mrs May hasn't banned them):)

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3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Its only two leaking at the moment, so I will tackle them as and when they leak. Hopefully two a year = 40 holes= well earned pint with a straw (if Mrs May hasn't banned them):)

Eee by eck lad this is a real straw for our drinks ( Cider :) ) no namby pamby plastic tubes. 

http://www.ecostrawz.co.uk/titanium-drinking-straw-straight-337-p.asp

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5 minutes ago, W+T said:

Eee by eck lad this is a real straw for our drinks ( Cider :) ) no namby pamby plastic tubes. 

http://www.ecostrawz.co.uk/titanium-drinking-straw-straight-337-p.asp

Stainless here x 4 with brush

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MIU-Reusable-NON-TOXIC-Stainless-including/dp/B00EUVPRPI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MWJ4C37WJMRAXEJW2NJ8

Edited by rusty69
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49 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Also known as sex bolts !!!

From that link: Socket Nuts, Tube Nuts, Connector Bolts, Clamp Bolts, Sex Bolts, Barrel Nuts, Screws with Internal Threads, Sleeve Nuts etc

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16 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Whilst the windows were out, I have rubbed down the wooden frames. Anyone used wax instead of varnish?

Many times. It’s unsuitable for anything that’ll regularly get wet. 

Many of those panelled Victorian rooms with very dark oak are that colour as a result of wax finishes. Smoke from coal fires plus dust settles on the wood and sticks to the wax. Another coat of wax seals it in. Keep doing that for 100 years and you end up with that dark colour. Scrub the wood with white spirit and it comes back a lovely golden colour like it should be. 

Edited by WotEver
Spillung
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