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Sterling unit


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It's a GM 1.5

Sorry not familiar with that engine. I would still try a Gates belt though, once you have cleaned and removed all traces of wax from the pulleys. The new one you have is now contaminated and needs binning.

"If the belts are squeakin', the tension needs tweakin' "

Edited by Guest
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Could this be a BMC 1.5 marinised by JG Meakes of Marlow in the 70s/80s with a broken label?

 

If so best stick to calling it a BMC 1.5. maybe post a photo so we can identify it.

 

Once you are sure the belt is not slipping the best next step is to physically check all the connections on the charging circuit, including how tight any female blade terminals fit onto their blades and how secure the cable is in the terminal.

 

Do you mean the yellow light was flashing on and off or did it make a click when it flashed? In the later case you might be hearing a split charge relay click on and off but that would be a symptom of intermittent charging.

 

If this is a seriously old boat it is possible it has a Lucas 10 or 11 AC system and if so the 6RA field relay maybe clicking in or out.

 

If it is a JGM marinisation it would not surprise me if it is still using an ACR alternator. If so (and if its a 10/11AC system) it would probably be best to change to an A127 with proper bolt on terminals instead of spades.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The alternator went to a proper alternator place in Hackney wick it was all working fine last week clicking off and on the only thing I've done is put some wax on the fan belt to stop it squeaking

Lesuire battery's now up to 11.6 via solar

 

 

Yes but you still haven't told us WHY it went there. WHY did you take it off and spend money on having it tested?

Nor have I noticed you telling the board which Sterling unit you have.

 

You really need to answer the questions properly or we are all just guessing.

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Yes but you still haven't told us WHY it went there. WHY did you take it off and spend money on having it tested?

 

Nor have I noticed you telling the board which Sterling unit you have.

 

You really need to answer the questions properly or we are all just guessing.

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Yes but you still haven't told us WHY it went there. WHY did you take it off and spend money on having it tested?Nor have I noticed you telling the board which Sterling unit you have.

 

You really need to answer the questions properly or we are all just guessing.

 

Yes but you still haven't told us WHY it went there. WHY did you take it off and spend money on having it tested?

Nor have I noticed you telling the board which Sterling unit you have.

 

You really need to answer the questions properly or we are all just guessing.

Is there an echo in here?

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Sorry it went to the alternator place because my engineer thought there was a problem with it but it turned out to be ok, didn't cost me and the unit is a universal advanced digital 4 step I'll post a picture, just ordered the new belt and will fit tomorrow, thanks for all your help I'll update tomorrow

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Sorry it went to the alternator place because my engineer thought there was a problem with it but it turned out to be ok, didn't cost me and the unit is a universal advanced digital 4 step I'll post a picture, just ordered the new belt and will fit tomorrow, thanks for all your help I'll update tomorrow

 

 

This is like pulling teeth lol!

 

WHY did the engineer think there was a fault. What fault? Why did you call an engineer in the first place?

 

I'm trying to get some history. The history of a fault is as important as the symptoms being reported on the day.

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This is like pulling teeth lol!

 

WHY did the engineer think there was a fault. What fault? Why did you call an engineer in the first place?

 

I'm trying to get some history. The history of a fault is as important as the symptoms being reported on the day.[/quote

 

"Sorry mate but I'm new to this , I got air in the full and wanted to be shown how to clear it, at the same time I have flattered the battery trying to start it so I got a new battery because I wanted a spare, not sure what he thought was up with the alternator."

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Make sure you clean the pulleys of all wax and other contaminants. With battery voltages like you have if there are no other problems your alternator will be running flat out for some time putting a lot of load on that new belt. Run the engine above tick over speed. it will take several hours to recharge those batteries if you have not already destroyed them.

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OK - it is not a JG Meakes unit but it is a BMC 1.5

 

The alternator looks like a Lucas A127 modified to take an advanced regulator BUT the field tap the Sterling advanced regulator needs to do its job looks as if it is not connected (black wire with bullet on it). However that would not stop the alternator working, it would just mean the Sterling unit could not do its thing and boost the charging voltage. This means that we can rule out the Sterling unit so back to connections and alternator oh yes, as Brian says a belt slipping under high load - especially as it seem the OP has applied slippery wax to the pulleys.

 

 

Edited by Tony Brooks
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OK - it is not a JG Meakes unit but it is a BMC 1.5

 

The alternator looks like a Lucas A127 modified to take an advanced regulator BUT the field tap the Sterling advanced regulator needs to do its job looks as if it is not connected (black wire with bullet on it). However that would not stop the alternator working, it would just mean the Sterling unit could not do its thing and boost the charging voltage. This means that we can rule out the Sterling unit so back to connections and alternator oh yes, as Brian says a belt slipping under high load - especially as it seem the OP has applied slippery wax to the pulleys.

 

 

The Black Wire that leaves the Alternator should be connected to the WHITE wire from the controller

 

CT

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Out of interest, how does the controller field wire REDUCE the field voltage? In my setup, when the field wire is disconnected, the alternator output defaults to 14.4v so the controller needs to lower this for the float stage.

It doesn't,when the Controller finishes with it's program it defaults to standard Alternator output

 

CT

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According to their manual, float voltage should be 13.65:

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0658/7343/files/PDAR.pdf

 

Are you saying it is impossible to reduce output voltage by field wire alone?

Seems that way,unless the standard Regulator is not deployed at all

 

I use the Sterling PDAR's on the Boat's main Engine and the DC Generator,have never seen the Voltage reduce less than that of the standard Regulator

 

CT

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Standard external alternator controllers can only increase the alternator voltage. They supply the field current when the internal regulator chooses not to, but there is no way they can stop the internal regulator from driving the field when it chooses too.

 

With the more recent alternators that charge at a higher voltage the float mode in the Sterling and the low voltage part of the cycle in the Adverc will both be ineffective unless the internal regulator is removed or disabled. Many people say an external controller is really needed with modern alternators, others think that the slightly higher voltage, temperature compensation and battery sensing still make them worthwhile.

 

 

..................Dave

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Standard external alternator controllers can only increase the alternator voltage. They supply the field current when the internal regulator chooses not to, but there is no way they can stop the internal regulator from driving the field when it chooses too.

 

With the more recent alternators that charge at a higher voltage the float mode in the Sterling and the low voltage part of the cycle in the Adverc will both be ineffective unless the internal regulator is removed or disabled. Many people say an external controller is really needed with modern alternators, others think that the slightly higher voltage, temperature compensation and battery sensing still make them worthwhile.

 

 

..................Dave

It would not be difficult to achieve a float voltage situation once the Sterling has completed it's Job

 

An adjustable Voltage sensitive control could be used to switch the Alternator Field current ON/OFF frequently

 

Got me thinking........ will have to try it !

 

CT

Edited by cereal tiller
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If by that you mean a mains charger (and it is by no means clear what you mean) then yes if you have a mains type generator or a shoreline. If you do not then what is going to power it so No you can not.

 

Please, Please, Please be more descriptive and accurate in your questions otherwise people may well get fed up with trying to guess what you mean or worse still give you what turns out to be poor advice because of the lack of clarity.

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If by that you mean a mains charger (and it is by no means clear what you mean) then yes if you have a mains type generator or a shoreline. If you do not then what is going to power it so No you can not.

 

Please, Please, Please be more descriptive and accurate in your questions otherwise people may well get fed up with trying to guess what you mean or worse still give you what turns out to be poor advice because of the lack of clarity.

Sorry yes I maybe able to plug into shortline as I'm moored next to a garage...

Edited by Markymark
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