Home made raw water filter

[WotEver]

I always thought a bend formed in a pipe fitters bending tool could be from very easy right up to 90% and an elbow as bought from a plumbers was a tight 90% bend which seems the other way round to what you suggest.

 

Neil

That's what I thought too. A 'bend' is gradual, an 'elbow' is a sharp bend... somewhat like one's elbow

[Tony Brooks]

The above is correct, the OP may misunderstand. To help him look at http://www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/Brands/Yorkshire/General

 

It is easy to see the difference from the illustrations. I think it would be even more marked if one looked at iron pipe fittings.

 

Still its his boat and if he wants to build in a potential problem spot its his right.

[Crow]

Thanks again ,and after this mornings frost and ice in my bilge ,due to not having finished the deck drains I am taking Tony's and others advice on getting rid of heat exchanger cooling,as now I'm a bit more clued up,it's going to land up in tears when it all freezes up.

The photos are a left and right of transom,what bit of counter I have I will fit some 50 MM pipes 4 off at 36 inch long + the elbows/ bends at 180 degrees to give me 6 sq ft of area,when I fitted leg and drive I wanted the drive shaft / crank centre as high as I could

To keep the rubber bellow on the z drive out the water,but having the cavition plate under the counter,I did extend the keel by 2 ft

To wards the prop just to try and smooth water flow a bit,you lads don't miss much on a photo, have a good new year all of you.

[ditchcrawler]

Thanks again ,and after this mornings frost and ice in my bilge ,due to not having finished the deck drains I am taking Tony's and others advice on getting rid of heat exchanger cooling,as now I'm a bit more clued up,it's going to land up in tears when it all freezes up.

The photos are a left and right of transom,what bit of counter I have I will fit some 50 MM pipes 4 off at 36 inch long + the elbows/ bends at 180 degrees to give me 6 sq ft of area,when I fitted leg and drive I wanted the drive shaft / crank centre as high as I could

To keep the rubber bellow on the z drive out the water,but having the cavition plate under the counter,I did extend the keel by 2 ft

To wards the prop just to try and smooth water flow a bit,you lads don't miss much on a photo, have a good new year all of you.

OK another link for you from the same chap that made the mud box http://boatbuildblog.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/making-keel-cooling-for-friend.html

[Alan de Enfield]

,I did extend the keel by 2 ft

 

 

You mean you have increased the draft of the boat by an additional 24" , or you have extended the keel to aft by 24" ?

Edited December 28, 2016 by Alan de Enfield

[Dalslandia]

 

You mean you have increased the draft of the boat by an additional 24" , or you have extended the keel to aft by 24" ?

 

The rear end of the V hull was extended 24" aft in a smooth curved keel.

[blackrose]

Point taken, it wont be as efficient but a well thought out horizontal tank will still cool better than an inadequate vertical tank !

I'm not sure why we're comparing "a well thought out horizontal skin tank" (a contradiction in terms surely?) with an inadequately sized vertical tank? Both are obviously badly designed and shouldn't be installed.

[blackrose]

I think as long as it's suitability well baffled a baseplate mounted skin tank should be ok?

 

Ca always make it a bit larger area and or thinner. Bilge keel coolers work fine.

 

Daniel

Baffles on a horizontal skin tank would run vertically which doesn't solve the problem. A thinner tank might help but you'd still get the hottest water rising to the top of the tank. It's simply an inefficient design. Bilge keel coolers work on some boats but not well on others, depending on the design. Many run along the swims rather than flat baseplate.

[Crow]

Many thanks Jan (Dalslandia) for all your input ,help,and assistance on design and modifications on my little pig,

And for photo of your boat cooling pipe arrangement,to be copied

[Crow]

Well I've resolved my filter problem ,I've made a stainless cooler to fit under the counter , 2x1 box 7 sq ft worth including all the sides and faces of the fabrication, all I need to know now is , after removing heat exchanger and welding the end caps up ,where do i T in with my new cooler pipes,thanks in advance ,nick

[Tony Brooks]

Hot out from any large hose connection on the heat exchanger body, block the rest

 

Cooled back into the engine water pump.

 

If you fit a calorifier the hot out to calorifier comes form a plug on the cylinder head and the cold return goes into the keel cooler return hose/pipe close to the engine water pump.

[Crow]

Thanks Tony. ,was hoping you or Jan would assist,I can make a bit of progress now ,and not worry about weed on the witham or freezing up .have a good year all

[Crow]

That's the best thing to do with that, weld the ends up , and weigh what bit of cupro Nickle there is in

Along with the bronze injection spout