Crow Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 please can anyone advise me on the position of the drive shaft through the transom in relation to the water level,I'm a bit concerned that when the prop is in what I think is the correct position ,the rubber drive bellows will be 1/2 in the water,I've looked at other boats and they all seem the same,I can alter the Swim and counter so it's possible to raise the complete engine/ leg assembly making the drive 125 MM higher and out of the water, what I'm doing is removing a outboard from my much modified springer waterbug and fitting the drive to a m3. 09 Mitsubshi ,if I knew more about hydraulics that's the way I'd go Thanks in advance Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exturnaroundman Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 You could try asking Bob Knowles Plant Services in Leicester, they still do spares for Enfield z drives so maybe able to advise. Google will give you the contact details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenataomm Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 I had a river cruiser with twin Enfields which were both about a 1/3 submerged at the rubber gator, which I have to admit I wasn't comfortable about. In the 80s I had a Dawncraft 30 with an Enfield which had the gator completely clear of the water. I echo your concern because even if it is okey dokey it puts the gearbox oil level check hole on the water level if not under it. Which can't be sensible. I hope you learn the answer, and please share as although it was 15 years ago, I've always wondered ..... I know that's sad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Does the leg length and the boats draft define the position of the hole to a degree? Its not sensibel to raise the leg if it is going to end up with the prop masked by the hull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 We have a Volvo leg which is a more modern outdrive. The rubber bellows and the oil dip stick are below the waterl evel all of the time. If the bellows and oil seals are in good condition there is no problem and water will be kept out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cereal tiller Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Does the leg length and the boats draft define the position of the hole to a degree? Its not sensibel to raise the leg if it is going to end up with the prop masked by the hull. That is the most important consideration.the horizontal Aeration plate above the Propellor should be 50mm below the bottom edge of the Boat's Transom Should the Outdrive be situated any higher The Prop. will not be able to provide adequate thrust if as Tony states,it is masked. CT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) Chertsey Meads marine are good with outdrives. Might be worth a call they are very helpful. They are at Chertsey on the Thames. Nice boatyard. Edited October 11, 2016 by magnetman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cereal tiller Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Chertsey Meads marine are good with outdrives. Might be worth a call they are very helpful. They are at Chertsey on the Thames. Nice boatyard. Have personally installed dozens ,and repaired literally hundreds of Outdrives of all makes which gives me the confidence to recommend the dimensions given in my previous post. Out drives are best avoided as they will eventually cause massive repair bills(from people like me).mainly because the Enfield parts are overpriced and Volvo spares are,and always have been,extortionate! On canals and urban water ways their lifespan is somewhat reduced. Only one Thames hire fleet operator used them in the 'Seventies,the breakdown/repair figures were alarming to sat the least. CT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetman Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) That's interesting Was that hire company Hobbs of Henley?. Edited October 11, 2016 by magnetman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cereal tiller Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) That's interesting Was that hire company Hobbs of Henley?. Was 35 years ago,think it was called Island cruisers? based at Reading They used the Sonic outdrive which got regularly 'Mullered' when a boat would go aground! Agreed Chertsey Meads marine is a good outfit which has been run by the Shields family for a long time CT Edited October 11, 2016 by cereal tiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Have personally installed dozens ,and repaired literally hundreds of Outdrives of all makes which gives me the confidence to recommend the dimensions given in my previous post. Out drives are best avoided as they will eventually cause massive repair bills(from people like me).mainly because the Enfield parts are overpriced and Volvo spares are,and always have been,extortionate! On canals and urban water ways their lifespan is somewhat reduced. snip CT 100% agree - canal users take note. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 We service our own but even so the bills are fairly high just for the parts. Can't say we have ever damaged it by running aground though. It kicks up if it strikes anything hard enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 We service our own but even so the bills are fairly high just for the parts. Can't say we have ever damaged it by running aground though. It kicks up if it strikes anything hard enough. but you haven't been on the Mon and Brec, have you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 but you haven't been on the Mon and Brec, have you? No and neither do I intend too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow Posted October 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Well thanks lads, after doing a lot of measuring my transom height to top of deck is 27 inch,my engine crank centre would be 14 inch from top of deck, c/L of crank to c/L of prop is 21 and a1/4 the water line is 19 and a 1/4 from deck top, the cavition plate is 8 inch up from c/L of prop , after a bit of working out the c/ l of bellows is about 4 and a 1/4 inch out the water,I think, trouble is the cavition plate Will only be 30 MM max under the transom and any prop I may or may not need will have to be 11 inch max or it's dia will be greater than the keel, CT. thanks for response and will that 25/30 MM distance end all hope of a transplant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cereal tiller Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Well thanks lads, after doing a lot of measuring my transom height to top of deck is 27 inch,my engine crank centre would be 14 inch from top of deck, c/L of crank to c/L of prop is 21 and a1/4 the water line is 19 and a 1/4 from deck top, the cavition plate is 8 inch up from c/L of prop , after a bit of working out the c/ l of bellows is about 4 and a 1/4 inch out the water,I think, trouble is the cavition plate Will only be 30 MM max under the transom and any prop I may or may not need will have to be 11 inch max or it's dia will be greater than the keel, CT. thanks for response and will that 25/30 MM distance end all hope of a transplant Have never seen an Outdrive on a narrowboat,.......Reconsider? CT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalslandia Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Was one here on "my" canal many years ago, a fibre glass catamaran with 2 outdrives, they had a expencive learning curve, with the outdrives out in the corners, in a canal that have a non square underwater profile but rounded, and often just is rock that have been blasted. sticking out randomly into the canal. they learned they had to pull the boat into and out of the canals and locks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 (edited) An outdrive is just an 'outboard' with the engine inside the boat, so, the same rules apply regarding 'length of the leg' and amount of 'hull clearance' Maybe this will assist : Your cavitation plate should be level with the 'bottom of the hull' Edited October 12, 2016 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Thank you Alan. That is just what I needed to see, it makes all my measurements near perfect,all I'll have to do is raise the deck 30 MM So the rocker box clears engine lid .That will make the centre of crank and drive 145mm out the water , cav plate level with btm of transom, And enough room for a 14 " prop if needed, it must have been made for springer water bugs,well it's the same era It'll be nice to run at less than 5000 rpm and charge at more than 6 a. Oh and do more than 8 mpg All I need to fathom out now is ,what prop I need ,if there's anyone clued up I'm all ears, Thanks again, Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Thank you Alan. That is just what I needed to see, it makes all my measurements near perfect,all I'll have to do is raise the deck 30 MM So the rocker box clears engine lid .That will make the centre of crank and drive 145mm out the water , cav plate level with btm of transom, And enough room for a 14 " prop if needed, it must have been made for springer water bugs,well it's the same era It'll be nice to run at less than 5000 rpm and charge at more than 6 a. Oh and do more than 8 mpg All I need to fathom out now is ,what prop I need ,if there's anyone clued up I'm all ears, Thanks again, Nick I wish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalslandia Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 what will you drive the propeller with via the outdrive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 what will you drive the propeller with via the outdrive? An engine at a guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalslandia Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 (edited) and gear ratio from the in shaft to the out shaft? boat size, weight, length, beam draft of hull??? ? Edited October 12, 2016 by Dalslandia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I could get the wife to pedal it , but im adapting a m3. 09 vetus boat is 7. 5 mtrs long engine power at max torque is 15 hp at 1900 rpm. 25 hp at 3000 rpm. Gear ratio is 1.6:1. Boat weight 3000 kg. I don't know the displacement ,needs a bit of triangulation maths as it's irregular shape due to v bottom and it'll be going in the tidal Trent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crow Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Sorry I missed out the beam and draft. Beam is 2 mtrs. Draft I'll have to work that out Photo attached .and thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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