Chlorinated rubber blacking paint

[Buttercup]

Does anyone know what chlorinated rubber blacking paint is? Does anyone use it? I've found it very difficult to find any information on this, though I've been told its better than anything and takes years before the hull needs blacking again.

[blackrose]

You've been told it's better than anything [else] but you can't find any information on it? If it really was the best product on the market then I'm sure that information wouldn't be difficult to find.

 

If you're serious about wanting the best products for painting your boat think about a two-part epoxy such as the Jotamastic 87 range.

 

http://www.jotun.com/we/en/b2b/paintsandcoatings/products/jotamastic-87.aspx

 

Edit: The boat will need to be grit-blasted first.

Edited October 27, 2015 by blackrose

[ditchcrawler]

They use to use Chlorinated Rubber Offshore http://www.paints4trade.com/sigmacover-280-primer-4389-p.asp?variantid=4571#fo_c=888&fo_k=387180f91cbe88ab13b9ab2a35789449&fo_s=gplauk

[Buttercup]

Thank you. It doesn't seem very popular does it?

[John V]

I think the only reference I have seen for it was in Mike Pratt's book "Own a steel boat" where it was also referred to as "Parlour Paint" (milking parlour possibly ?). He seemed to think reasonably of it although IIRC he said that when freshly applied it hung in folds and runs and looked awful but then it tightened up and gripped the steel very well. That book is several decades old now and it could well be that technology has moved on.

[Tony Brooks]

I have a feeling that we used the white version on the garage floor in the 60s to mark out the bays etc. It was either that or as acid resist on battery carriers. Not sure about hulls, especially if any bitumen/tar was still in place. If you are going to get it all off then suerly epoxy would be most cost effective.

[BEngo]

Does anyone know what chlorinated rubber blacking paint is? Does anyone use it? I've found it very difficult to find any information on this, though I've been told its better than anything and takes years before the hull needs blacking again.

The clue is rather in the name of the stuff. It's a paint which contains natural rubber which has been treated with chlorine compounds and then dissolved in something. This enables the treated rubber solution to be spread out across a surface and when the solvent evaporates it forms a tough coating.

 

As with epoxy you are wasting your money if you don't put it on a SA 2 1/2 grit blasted bare metal surface.

 

I have seen canal boats done in CR and it seems to be as effective a coating but maybe not quite as abrasion resistant.

 

It comes in more colours than epoxy, but that may not help if you are of the H Ford school of hull painter..

 

N

[Murflynn]

The paint tends to be self-healing to a degree if it gets bashed or scratched.

 

Good performance, but certainly not suitable for a glossy showroom appearance.

[John V]

It comes in more colours than epoxy, but that may not help if you are of the H Ford school of hull painter..

 

N

 

 

[Bloomsberry]

You've been told it's better than anything [else] but you can't find any information on it? If it really was the best product on the market then I'm sure that information wouldn't be difficult to find.

 

If you're serious about wanting the best products for painting your boat think about a two-part epoxy such as the Jotamastic 87 range.

 

http://www.jotun.com/we/en/b2b/paintsandcoatings/products/jotamastic-87.aspx

 

Edit: The boat will need to be grit-blasted first.

 

I'm hearing some good things about Jotamastic 87 so am keen to use this for my next blacking.

 

Unfortunatly the nearest place that does gritblasting from me is quite a distance so I need an alternative method of removing the existing blacking.

 

A boat yard a couple of days cruising from me removes blacking by needle gun but I'm not too keen on that method.

 

I've had a terco blaster for the last year and am quite impressed with the results so am planning using this to remove the blacking.

 

To do the whole boat would be impossible (40ft) so I'm planning on just concentrating on the vunerable areas ie. across the waterline , areas of galvanic activity (?) and possibly welding seams.

 

I don't know of anybody whose tried this method so have no idea if it's even going to successful or not but I'm willing to give it a go.

 

Even if it fails it can't be any worse than my previous experiances of using bitumen products.

[ditchcrawler]

The clue is rather in the name of the stuff. It's a paint which contains natural rubber which has been treated with chlorine compounds and then dissolved in something. This enables the treated rubber solution to be spread out across a surface and when the solvent evaporates it forms a tough coating.

 

As with epoxy you are wasting your money if you don't put it on a SA 2 1/2 grit blasted bare metal surface.

 

I have seen canal boats done in CR and it seems to be as effective a coating but maybe not quite as abrasion resistant.

 

It comes in more colours than epoxy, but that may not help if you are of the H Ford school of hull painter..

 

N

Ours was applied to freshly blasted steel by airless spray for a life exposed to the North sea. The spraying was only done when the temperature and humidity was correct under the watchful eye of a paint inspector who also checked film thickness,

[sailor0500]

I do not know how compatible this will be with existing coatings but 20 years ago I used to build steel yachts and many friends swore by it. Big problem seemed to be to get it off!

[Seti-Yeti]

It is 30+ years ago now so my memory is very sketchy but I recall using CR as a barrier between very weathered bitumen on a wooden hull (don't ask...) and subsequent anti-fouling coats of conventional types for river/sea. It was brilliant. cured to quite a tough surface, much more so than I would have imagined. Anyway, I can't vouch for the much more abrasion prone canal life but for rivers it worked a treat. I suspect it's slightly flexible nature was tolerant of the inherent movement in a wooden hull.

[Woodsy]

As with Ditchcrawler above we used to use CR paint offshore & n the fishing industry for external use only. The Jotun brand is Pioneer Topcoat (used Jotomastic 87 as the primer). I recall that CR paints "meld" when over coating so changing colour was a no-no as the previous coat comes through the latest topcoat.

 

Googled the links below which should help you make an informed decision

 

http://www.jotun.com/aa/en/b2b/technical-info/generic-types-of-paint/

 

http://poolpaint.com.au/info-bank/chlorinated-rubber-vs-epotec/