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    Systems Engineer
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    Sam stone
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  1. Is there another boat in the dock at the same time, as the washing of this will be splashing water on your boat too, so might have to wait until the washing of this has been completed.
  2. Would an out of alignment prop shaft cause water to pass between the packing and the shaft ? Heard this can be tested by how easy the prop shaft is to turn by hand.
  3. Update - Resolved , the problem turned out to be the dipstick itself. The dipstick has a mechanism that expands a plastic taper that is used to hold it in place. It is expanded by turning the dipstick handle whilst holding the dipstick body still and there is a screw thread that pulls the plastic taper closer to the top of the dipstick forcing it to expand and lock it in place. On my dipstick the taper was expanded but not enough to hold it in place so a turn on the handle has now locked it so shouldn't now pop out during running. It does actually mention th
  4. Thanks Tony, that sounds like a better idea, I've got some plastic tubing that may fit so will give it a try.
  5. Managed to remove the breather, it was a bit chewed so looks as if some else has had a go at it in the past. Cleaned it down and tried to blow through it but couldn't. I've read that some breathers only allow air to pass at a certain pressure, but the dipstick isn't locked in place so can't see this being the case for a 71C as any pressure would be possible to lift the dipstick which is what is happening ASAP do a replacement breather for a 71C for £31 so I'm going to order one and see how it goes.
  6. Thanks Tony, the breather doesn't look too difficult to remove so will have a go at it next time I'm on the boat.
  7. Having problems with my Borg Warner Velvet drive (71C) with the dipstick blowing out during running. Thought I'd cracked it when I realised the oil level has to be checked when at temperature but did this and is still doing it. There is a breather located nearby, can't see in the manual if this is related to the dipstick cavity (?). Does anyone know if this could be the cause of the issue if this was blocked ?
  8. I've got my BSS next week and I've been spending lots of time cleaning the boat out and making it look presentable. TBH it has been way overdue so was a good opportunity to give it a good clean out, it's amazing how many things you find that have been lost for a long while. Can't believe it's the same boat !
  9. I totally agree, it is B******x. But if the boat is over a certain age, insurers insist on a 'Satisfactory' survey for fully comp insurance. And so it is up to the surveyor to determine what minimum hull thickness is acceptable. Maybe when booking a surveyor for an insurance survey you need to ascertain what the minimum hull thickness size is they are willing to accept, and if the answer is not less than 4mm then look for another surveyor ?
  10. Interesting, so the decision to determine whether a boat is insurable or not is influenced by the original thickness of the hull and not the actual thickness eg 3.9mm is ok on a hull originally 4mm but not on a hull originally 6mm ?
  11. So does this mean any slight corrosion on a Springer with 4mm plate would take the thickness below 4mm and hence rendering the vessel uninsurable ?
  12. I've seen overplating using 4mm plate advertised which seems a bit short sighted with 4mm being what the surveyors consider as being the minimum thickness
  13. Kitchen foil is excellent at deflecting heat although it wouldn't look too great
  14. Thanks for the replies My main concern was the possibility of there being water in the cavity between the overplate and the hull, which would cause corrosion on the unprotected surfaces which would slowley get worse over time. As long as the cavity is dry then all is good (for now). Also, having the ability to check if there's water between the hull and overplate in the future is a re-assurance and if this is done prior to docking for blacking then arrangements can be made to repair if there are any breachs.
  15. A hull insurance survey on my overplated boat a few years ago revealed that some of the welds of the overplating were 'undercut' and needed re-welding. Surveyor wanted the cavity of the overplating pressurised after the work to test it's integrity. However, the boatyard doing the work recommended against this as it risked damaging the overplating. In the end the work was done without pressurising and opted for 3rd party insurance instead as the boat is quite old now anyway. So I was wondering the best method of checking the integrity of the cavity which obviously means penetrating
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