tongue and groovy

[DanMax&Belle]

Hi,

 

I wonder if anyone can recommend what is a standard width tongue and groove (for cladding) wider than 100mm please? I looked at 100mm T&G recently and I think a wider plank looks better but I cant seem to see any uniformity in the other widths it is sold in.

 

Also who is a reasonably priced wholesaler that will deliver to London and sells the pieces as long as 5500mm (I don't want any breaks in the lengths and this is the longest length). If its relevant I'm planning on painting them.

 

Look forward to some help.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

[Bod]

If you are planning to paint them, do they have to be solid wood?

Line out with ply sheets, then cut the T&G joints, with a router, to what ever spacing you require.

Has the advantage that the "joints" don't open.

 

Bod

[GUMPY]

Kensworth Sawmill near Dunstable made mine to match the existing ones that were 125mm they could make them any size.

[PaulJ]

Give DW Mouldings a try- they have a place at Sandy and Tottenham. Made some Ash T & G for me to order but will do it in most timbers I would think.

[Jess--]

Give DW Mouldings a try- they have a place at Sandy and Tottenham. Made some Ash T & G for me to order but will do it in most timbers I would think.

I would be interested to see how ash T&G comes out, do you happen to have any photo's?

[DanMax&Belle]

If you are planning to paint them, do they have to be solid wood?

Line out with ply sheets, then cut the T&G joints, with a router, to what ever spacing you require.

Has the advantage that the "joints" don't open.

 

Bod

i guess they do need to be solid wood given the lengths I'm trying to achieve, how would the ply be attached? as I'm looking to avoid joins and screws where possible.

Give DW Mouldings a try- they have a place at Sandy and Tottenham. Made some Ash T & G for me to order but will do it in most timbers I would think.

cool thanks, any idea what a cost effective timber for painted T&G would be?

Kensworth Sawmill near Dunstable made mine to match the existing ones that were 125mm they could make them any size.

thanks - any idea what (if any) the standard sizes for T&G cladding are? Clearly 100mm is one but there seems to be no uniformity from a cursory search.

[Bod]

i guess they do need to be solid wood given the lengths I'm trying to achieve, how would the ply be attached? as I'm looking to avoid joins and screws where possible.

 

 

You'll be having walls going across the boat?

Hide the joins behind the wall thickness.

Screw heads, sink below surface, then either plug or fill over, paint makes them disappear.

I doubt, you'll find 5.5m long planks easily, bear in mind you would have to get them from the lorry, into the boat. At least 3 people, and no corners!

 

Bod

[DanMax&Belle]

 

You'll be having walls going across the boat?

Hide the joins behind the wall thickness.

Screw heads, sink below surface, then either plug or fill over, paint makes them disappear.

I doubt, you'll find 5.5m long planks easily, bear in mind you would have to get them from the lorry, into the boat. At least 3 people, and no corners!

 

Bod

thanks Bod - yes the bulkheads are already in place, the longest room is 5.5 m. I spoke with some suppliers today and one can do 5.4 m at a push so I should be ok as i'd left a bit of tolerance in the measurement. All my windows come out fully so getting the timber in isnt an issue. Im hoping to diagonally screw the tongue and groove (through the groove) into the (currently 10mm ply) ceiling to avoid any screwing filling or plinths. let me know what you think Bod. cheers

Edited October 6, 2015 by DanMax&Belle

[GUMPY]

You can always put the joints at the edge of the windows and use the curtains to cover them.

[DanMax&Belle]

You can always put the joints at the edge of the windows and use the curtains to cover them.

I'm just looking at ceiling currently. Plan is to clad the ceiling with stern to bow T & G, put in some framing over ply joints above the gunnel then vertical T&G for below the gunnel and bulkheads.

[David Mack]

5.5m lengths is going to cost you. What's wrong with random joints as everybody else does, especially if its going to be painted anyway?

[magnetman]

That's what I was thinking - or line the joints up and find some attractively grained oak or teak battens and use these for covering all the joints up. That would look nice in my individual opinion and also be a lot easier to actually do.

 

I am a bit biased as I really like plain unpainted wood details. I agree with painted panels but a nice bit of oak to help frame everything does make it look better imo

Edited October 6, 2015 by magnetman

[Bod]

thanks Bod - yes the bulkheads are already in place, the longest room is 5.5 m. I spoke with some suppliers today and one can do 5.4 m at a push so I should be ok as i'd left a bit of tolerance in the measurement. All my windows come out fully so getting the timber in isnt an issue. Im hoping to diagonally screw the tongue and groove (through the groove) into the (currently 10mm ply) ceiling to avoid any screwing filling or plinths. let me know what you think Bod. cheers

 

Usually T&G is pined with narrow nails through the base of the groove, I don't think there will be enough space for screws.

Of the wall thought. Fix with brass screws, make a feature of them!

If the current ceiling is 10mm thick already, the T&G is decorative only, so won't be too thick, there was a system that used clips screwed to the backing, then the T&G just clipped in place, If I can remember the name, I'll post it up.

Tip. Paint the tongue first before fitting, when joints open up a little, paint shows, not bare wood.

 

Bod

[PaulJ]

I would be interested to see how ash T&G comes out, do you happen to have any photo's?

There you go - before it got varnished

[Bod]

http://www.lfdirect.co.uk/hdm-avanti-wall--ceiling-panelling-clips-without-nails-315-p.asp

 

No idea how good these are, but it's the first result on a Google search!

 

Bod