DanMax&Belle

hitting new highs Alan - thanks again. Dont suppose you know if this model is sold on ebay? Digikey wants to charge additional delivery etc, not used them before so trying to avoid setting up a new account etc.... I did actually find it on ebay but it's coming from Germany so prob makes sense to order it from Digikey... Cheers again https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fan-Dc-Axial-24VDC-80x80x25mm-69-7m3-H-33dBA-Sliding-EE80252S1-000U-A99-Dc/383338364613?hash=item5940bf3ec5:m:mg4XdvwAj-8cbFFfPWOXlxA

erm ok lovely stuff - so would we be safe to assume it would draw less than the 1.8 watts and deliver less than 41 CF on a 12v supply?

Nice one Alan! Is there a 12v option (it's 24) or is it ok to connect this to a 12v supply and get less performance, 20 cubif feet per min would be fine by me esp if it was less than a watt draw Cheers

Thanks Mike, Will follow your advice on the height of the inlet. i have found lots of fans on ebay most of them dont state wattage, would be good to know optimum size and any other features to look for. I want the very lowest wattage and am willing to accept this will only provide a trickle of warm air - on the basis a trickle all night will make a difference to the current 8 degree differential between the 2 rooms.

Hi All, A happy new year to you all! Simple one from me this morning, i need to set up some hot air distribution within my off mooring, CC'ing boat. I plan to run some air ducting from behind the stove to the other side of the bulkhead in a room that struggles to benefit from the heat. I am concerned about drain on the battery so want the absoloute lowest wattage computer fan out there, I am assuming I want a 12v fan (the boat is 12v) rather than a lesser voltage fan and some voltage reducer between the battery and the fan because of inefficiencies (although please do let me know if a 5V fan is the way to go). Thanks in advance!

Are you an ex headmaster blackrose? lol I think you’re right, main takeaways from this thread to anyone that’s planing their boat: 1. Try and make sure your sink can gravity drain out of the boat. 2. If that is not possible then install a separate pump, pipe/hose run, switch and skin fitting for each bathroom application. 3. This removes the need for additional NRVs in the system which can bung up. nice one will do this This was an attempt to cheer up the likes of blackrose

there's no overflow on this sink

noted RE individual switches yes im convinced the air is getting in, in fact you can hear air going past the plug edges - so must be some serious differencial i can put the valve nearer the shower and will definetly try it as my next move - thanks - Sink has about 3 metres of pipe/reinfocred hose shower to the vallve (which is next to) the Y fitting - Shower has around 1.4 metres of pipe/reinforced hose before the valve (which is next to) the Y fitting

yes within about 30cm, im really hoping to not have 2 pumps if possible. Are your 2 pumps on the same switch Alan?

Finishing my fittout - I attached the bathroom sink (which is positioned in such a way as to not allow it to flow out directly to the skin fitting) and the shower to a gulper pump via a Y fitting but it doesnt suck water out of the shower quick enough unless i put the plug in to the sink and even then it's not as quick at removing the water as it was when the sink wasnt connected. Any ideas? its worth mentioning that i thought it was a good idea to attach a one way valve (one of the below) between the Y fitting and the shower/ sink to prevent the sink emptyiing out into the shower - could this be the issue? Thanks valve - https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/Whale-Non-Return-Valve-25mm-28mm-LV1218-MTLV1218.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwpuXpBRAAEiwAyRRPgVe5cUc04DLGzqUhopj1DmRi3fOdb60qVsQfsJU649xFLpV4uptdTxoCIW8QAvD_BwE

Thanks for all your suggestions everyone. Believe it or not it was the flex that was the issue (one common denominator and all that) for some reason it was fine plugged in without a load but when connected tripped everything. Checked wiring a couple of times so wasn’t that. When I changed the flex it all worked. Cheers again.

Hi, Fitting a mains central heating circulation pump on 16amp Shorepower. Every time I’ve connected the pump to power it has tripped the rcd at the bollard - immediately. I was just testing it to see if it would run before sealing and testing the plumping for leaks. I took the unit back to Screwfix and replaced it with a different model. Brought it back and exactly the same thing happened. I can rule out the cable/socket/pump electric connection as I’ve plugged it in without connecting to the pump and no problems. I’ve also changed bollards to my neighbours and the same thing happened. Is the fact I’m trying to operate it dry an issue (surely they’re capable of a few seconds use running dry)? Perhaps central heating circulation pumps don’t work well on 16 amp shorepower? Thanks all.

thanks - will do If anyone has done this or similar please chip in though. Victron do have a provision for a solar panel temp sensor (presumably to enhance the performance of the panel/MPPT system) , i did wonder if I could isolate and display this data through the VRM portal....

Hi All, Does the Victron energy system, particularly the colour control unit (which i have already) allow for additional (non victron, non energy related) input? I'd like to add a temp sensor if possible, perhaps a water tank full/empty sensor later on. It'd be good if it could be read from anywhere, see data points plotted out on a graph and, importantly, is robust and reliable (unlike Arduino/PI setups, which in my experience need regular reboot). Doe anyone know if one can take advantage of APIs, aux plugs, bluetooth/wifi connections etc on the module to link in non victron input? Cheers Dan

Can you all stop flirting on this deadly serious battery/sump box post please?

sounds totally loopy doesn't it Stilllearning - why would anyone do such a thing!

thanks for your thoughts Alan. The box does as all sump boxes do. It's whining not whirring. Its a deep, belfast style, sink which sits close to the waterline. It's not mine. Any thoughts on the battery problem?

god no where did you get that from? its a sump box which sit directly below the sink and is plumber into the U bend/trap. Same as some people use for showers (and kitchens)

i think i finally, after weeks of dropping in every few days and testing things progressively, worked it out! i found the sump box under the kitchen sink was "whining". Symptoms: - it seemed to wait until it was nearly full of water before triggering the pump (when working properly it would be triggered by the float switch at around 60% full). - between 60% full and 90% (the seeming trigger point before cleaning) it 'whined', very quietly, had to hold my ear to it, made a sound which sounded like the pump was turning very slowly - i had the voltimeter on the + and - whilst this was happening and it was displaying a rapidly changing voltage of between 9 and 12.5 volts - whilst the voltimeter was clipped onto the + and - of the sump i used a different voltimeter to the voltage at the battery, it was fluctuating here but much less pronounced. I wonder if the sump had been unwittingly filled and left somewhere between 60% and 90%. The pump was turning at a snails pace but was doing so which was causing the battery to short and given it was left for days in this state it ran down the battery to 0 without blowing a fuse? Incidentally the float switch and pump were gunked up and after a thorough clean with an old tooth brush it went back to working fine. What do you recon canalworld?

What are the qualifications which it would be a plus to have? What qualifications could they have? Given Tony and Nick's responses i take it there isn't a particularly recognisable or regularly seen narrowboat mechanic qualification/ noted RE prof indemnity

Hi, If a boat engineer/mechanic is coming to take a look at my faulty engine on the towpath, what certification/insurance should they have? Thanks Dan

its a possibility, i'll check it out. thanks

ok interesting - so a small LED left on for example will do the same if left for long enough? i know there's no solar or other means of trickle charging so this is a feasible explaination. the short would take considerably less time though right? thanks

i did indeed mrsmelly - i removed the terminal connectors and tried 2 seperate voltimeters on the =/- with the same suprising result. I must say i was expecting 6v or something equally condemning but no it read 0! cheers

Hi, Helping a friend with a leisure battery problem. New batteries around 4 months ago, boat empty, on a leisure mooring, starter battery (sitting nicely at 13.2 v on smart charger). The new leisure batteries (not connected to a smart charger) arent dying, or on the way out they are gone i mean GONE!! im flabergasted that they seem to be registering 0v not even 0.1v, nothing! i even tried a different voltimeter and the same result. having never seen a battery register 0v i can only assume there was a short connection which hasnt blown a fuse and the little electrons have been happily jogging around the circuit for the last 4 months until they ran out of puff. Anyone have any other theory? incase you ask/say: i isolated the LBs before testing them i've not searched for a short circuit yet none of the fuses have blown all the 12v applications (leds, pumps etc) don't work. i have advised the owner to connect the smart charger to the LBs and isolate the starter batts once we've got to the bottom of this and replaced the LBs Thanks in advance. Dan