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Insulation for sliding hatch


hilaryb

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We lined in some Oak Ply with a some thin insulation between it and the steel. TBH though it was a lot of work for little gain other than looking ok. The edges are lined in 4mm rubber adhered with Stixall.

 

SlidingHatchinner.jpg

 

With hindsight it would have been much easier and quicker to line the entire inner lid with 3/4mm of rubber sheet.

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I had no clearance to use anything other than thin cork tiles and they weren't adequate to insulate properly. In the end I made a wooden cover for the outside of the hatch which I coated with several layers of fibreglass epoxy resin and painted. I then stuck some 20mm Celotex PU foam board on top of the steel hatch with marineflex and stuck the wooden cover on top.

Edited by blackrose
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Hi. I used something like this.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/adhesive-closed-sheets-proofing-DELIVERY/dp/B009M61WNM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404132551&sr=8-7&keywords=self+adhesive+foam+sheets

 

It was a quick fix for the prevention of condensation below the hatch and has worked really well.

3mm might prevent condensation but it won't do much to insulate the hatch.

 

That ad is a bit odd. Open cell foams are used for sound insulation, not closed cell foams, and 3mm thickness isn't going to attenuate anything but the very highest sound frequencies.

Edited by blackrose
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3mm might prevent condensation but it won't do much to insulate the hatch.

 

That ad is a bit odd. Open cell foams are used for sound insulation, not closed cell foams, and 3mm thickness isn't going to attenuate anything but the very highest sound frequencies.

 

That is true. In my case, as a non live aboard, it was the solution to, in certain conditions, condensation dripping from the hatch onto the rear steps. It has certainly cured this. I am unsure if the link provided was exactly what I used, hence " something like ".

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Mine has good old expanded polystyrene sandwiched between the steel and the plywood finish, just like the interior walls. It needs redoing as the plywood has started to rot at the leading edge, but it stops any condensation problems so I'll just replace like for like.

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As a temporary measure we stuck the polystyrene slabs to my sliding hatch with thick double sided tape.It is still going strong a year later. But I may have to remove some when I eventually get to line the hatch out.

At the time I just needed a quick, easy way to stop dripping, and I had the materials already.

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No, it is rigid PVC foam - used for making signs, etc. It is quite hard and has a wipe-clean surface. I normally use 6 mm thick stuff.

 

Chris G

 

I think also known as 'Foamex' - comes in various thicknesses, is lightweight, and all sorts of local printers print signage and such onto it.

 

I met a boater last week who showed me a large sliding roof panel he'd made out of it to cover an open central cockpit on his narrowboat. Although massive, you could lift it with a finger.

 

I'm thinking of insulating a pigeon box with it.

Edited by Jim Batty
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No, it is rigid PVC foam - used for making signs, etc. It is quite hard and has a wipe-clean surface. I normally use 6 mm thick stuff.

 

Chris G

If it's just to stop condensation and does that job it's fine, but I don't think it will be as good as PU or PS foam for insulating the hatch. Then again, no 6mm thick material will do very much to insulate a surface. If you want to properly insulate a sliding hatch with limited clearance underneath then the only options are to either raise the hatch somehow or insulate it on the outside.

Edited by blackrose
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