bux Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 hi well now the weather seems to be changing, and getting colder, i have the problem of condensation on the inside of the windows and i guess when it starts to freeze i willl get ice inside the windows also. Does anyone have any good ideas of how to combat this problem, all wil be appreciated joy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanford Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Hi We put sheets of 6mm pvc stuck on velcro tape works very well and in summer you can store under bed ext dont take up much room good look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i love my narrowboat Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 I made my own porthole bungs, sponge inside, and covered with material which i glued (i am no good with the needle!!) and they work well as they soak up any condensation and then they slip down the back of the rads so out of the way and if you have your rads on they dry them out too .:-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Leave the windows open. Good ventilation is the key to keeping boats (and homes) condensation free during the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Good ventilation is the key to keeping boats (and homes) condensation free during the winter. A fact I repeatedly use against the never ending procession of sharp suited double glazing salesmen who persist in trying to get me to swap my "draughty" Victorian sash widows for their hermetically sealed plastic double-glazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 A fact I repeatedly use against the never ending procession of sharp suited double glazing salesmen who persist in trying to get me to swap my "draughty" Victorian sash widows for their hermetically sealed plastic double-glazing. I shall try that one next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanS Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) we collect the condensation off the windows with a sponge, wring it out in the kettle, and get one free kettle of water for tea every morning. simples. OK I WAS JOKING WE DRINK COFFEE. Edited October 21, 2011 by DeanS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickF Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 hi well now the weather seems to be changing, and getting colder, i have the problem of condensation on the inside of the windows and i guess when it starts to freeze i willl get ice inside the windows also. Does anyone have any good ideas of how to combat this problem, all wil be appreciated joy try wiping the inside of the window with a cloth with a small amount of undiluted washing up liquid .. keeps the condensation off them for a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmelly Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 try wiping the inside of the window with a cloth with a small amount of undiluted washing up liquid .. keeps the condensation off them for a few days. Works on the inside of ya bike visor too........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proper Job Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Works on the inside of ya bike visor too........... Doesn't help when you sneeze though............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bottle Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 We have double glazing. Another boater has made his own secondary glazing, that is fitted about now and removed in the spring, similar to that used in a house. Another boater got some film from Wilkinson and did similar. Link to page Both say it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boat&Bikes Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Sorry...!! All washing up liquid does is stop it from clouding...instead it stretches every light source across and around the smears and makes it all but impossible to see as soon as the daylight fades... Water still runs down the visor if you have no ventilation. I used a product called "cat crap" which was pretty good and no it didn't smell like cat sh*t nor was it brown...!! It might work on boat windows, but again it does strew light sources somewhat at night. The best thing I ever used with a lid was the velcro in deflector that literally deflected all the warm air away from the inside of the lid. Or vomit....bad times.... In my defence I had food poisoning and didn't own a car.....I had to wash my lid out in the shower with a lot of shampoo. The carrots I kept for garnishing a salad.... Cut a potato in half and rub it over the inside of your visor,it works a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebrof Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 We have double glazing. Another boater has made his own secondary glazing, that is fitted about now and removed in the spring, similar to that used in a house. Another boater got some film from Wilkinson and did similar. Link to page Both say it works. This cuts both condensation and heat loss, so is a very good idea. Last winter I used polythene on my windows, attached with tape, and it worked well. This weekend I am fitting proper secondary glazing, using 4mm clear perspex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Seward Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Yep, the 4mm clear perspex works great, sealed in the draft excluding tape. Been using it for years. if its fitted snuggly, it will eliminate the condensation. having a woodburning stove will take the moisture out of the air too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deletedaccount Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 hmm. 4mm perspex sounds just the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deletedaccount Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 There's the magnet attached versions I'd forgotten about here: http://www.diyplas.co.uk/Info.asp?catid=3&subcatid=369&proid=445&unsid=14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bux Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 We have double glazing. Another boater has made his own secondary glazing, that is fitted about now and removed in the spring, similar to that used in a house. Another boater got some film from Wilkinson and did similar. Link to page Both say it works. thanks for the link, will try that one There's the magnet attached versions I'd forgotten about here: http://www.diyplas.co.uk/Info.asp?catid=3&subcatid=369&proid=445&unsid=14 looked at the link but wonder if it coould be cut for port hole windows? There's the magnet attached versions I'd forgotten about here: http://www.diyplas.co.uk/Info.asp?catid=3&subcatid=369&proid=445&unsid=14 looked at the link but wonder if it coould be cut for port hole windows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bux Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 This cuts both condensation and heat loss, so is a very good idea. Last winter I used polythene on my windows, attached with tape, and it worked well. This weekend I am fitting proper secondary glazing, using 4mm clear perspex. been looking on youtube and saw someone covering their windows with bubble wrap, looks good, so may try that as it is easy to remove when not needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Covering windows up with bubblewrap wont cure condensation. It will just form on another surface. The only real cure for condensation is adequate ventialtion and cutting down on "activities" that create a lot of moisture in the air. Living in general does create moisture so you will have to provide some good ventilation through the boat. Leaving windows and hatches ajar creates airflow through the boat. It doesnt mean the boat has to be draughty or cold either. An adequate source of heating will also help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebrof Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) Covering windows up with bubblewrap wont cure condensation. It will just form on another surface. The only real cure for condensation is adequate ventialtion and cutting down on "activities" that create a lot of moisture in the air. Living in general does create moisture so you will have to provide some good ventilation through the boat. Leaving windows and hatches ajar creates airflow through the boat. It doesnt mean the boat has to be draughty or cold either. An adequate source of heating will also help. You are right to say that ventilation is very important. Cold air coming into the boat reduces the level of humidity. The cold air contains less moisture than the warm air it mixes with, so the overall humidity drops. However, you can have an acceptable level of humidity and still have condensation. Condensation forms on cold surfaces like windows because the cold surface causes a local drop in temperature. As stated, colder air can't carry as much moisture as warm air, so the moisture condenses on the cold surface. So bubble-wrap WILL reduce condensation, provided warm air can't get behind it and onto the window. I now have a de-humidifier and a humidity guage, and have noticed two things. First, the humidity level increases noticeably as the temperature inside the boat falls, and Second, the humidifier is more "productive" at these lower temperatures. Both of these are what you expect, but the effect is very noticeable. Edited October 22, 2011 by sebrof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bargemast Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Sorry...!! The best thing I ever used with a lid was the velcro in deflector that literally deflected all the warm air away from the inside of the lid. Or vomit....bad times.... In my defence I had food poisoning and didn't own a car.....I had to wash my lid out in the shower with a lot of shampoo. The carrots I kept for garnishing a salad.... I love carrots, but I'm glad you didn't invite me for dinner Peter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bux Posted October 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 Yep, the 4mm clear perspex works great, sealed in the draft excluding tape. Been using it for years. if its fitted snuggly, it will eliminate the condensation. having a woodburning stove will take the moisture out of the air too. tried bubble wrap, seems to work a treat so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 (edited) Personally think the windows are the best condensers. If the airborne moisture can't consence on the windows which have drains to cope you have to wonder where it will end up. The next coldest spot may well be somewhere more deterious to your boat. This is why I decided on single glazing on my build. Just my oppinion. Edited October 22, 2011 by Biggles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey b Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 You are right to say that ventilation is very important. Cold air coming into the boat reduces the level of humidity. The cold air contains less moisture than the warm air it mixes with, so the overall humidity drops. However, you can have an acceptable level of humidity and still have condensation. Condensation forms on cold surfaces like windows because the cold surface causes a local drop in temperature. As stated, colder air can't carry as much moisture as warm air, so the moisture condenses on the cold surface. So bubble-wrap WILL reduce condensation, provided warm air can't get behind it and onto the window. I now have a de-humidifier and a humidity guage, and have noticed two things. First, the humidity level increases noticeably as the temperature inside the boat falls, and Second, the humidifier is more "productive" at these lower temperatures. Both of these are what you expect, but the effect is very noticeable. Surely you noticing the damp in the air is down to the chilling effect of the water in the air at the reduced temperature (rather than an actual increase in humidity). Similarly, the increase in product from the dehumidifier will be due to the increase moisture content of the air at this time of year rather than the cool air holding more moisture. The forming of a condensate is the inability of the air at the dew point (in that local area) to hold the moisture any longer. When the mildew used to form in the Army married quarters we were always told that mildew was a lifestyle problem not a property problem! Forget the fact the houses were wringing with damp... The cure given was to turn up the heating to full, then turn it off and open all the doors and windows, then repeat on fine days. The warn air would take in the damp and the cold would come in drier, flushing the damp through. The ventilation theory is still the best idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Gunkel Posted October 23, 2011 Report Share Posted October 23, 2011 I'm surprised the discussion on preventing condensation still comes up every Winter as I thought all the information and discussion on this had been pinned in the FAQ section for the last couple of years Condensation It's down to basic physics and understanding of why you get condensation. Single glazing isn't the answer unless you want to increase condensation and heating requirement. It's about eliminating the surfaces that promote condensation and keeping a good supply of ventilated air, whilst at the same time minimising heat loss and maintaining warmth and comfort. It's also essential to minimise the unneccesary production of moisture by not keeping a kettle permanently on the stove, avoiding drying washing inside the boat when possible, extracting steam and moisture from the bathroom etc. If you eliminate cold surfaces for moisture to condense onto, minimise moisture in the air and maintain a steady temperature, any remaining moisture will stay in the air as long as it remains above the dewpoint of the air mass and doesn't reach saturation, where the air can't absorb any more moisture. That saturation point will always be much sooner than in a house, because of the minute volume of air in a boat compared to a house. Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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