davey b

RESTORE worked well on a 100K Land Rover Diesel Turbo and cut the smoking a lot but it wasn't a permanent fix - useful for a MoT though. A cheap answer that will require a follow up of proper work, but worth it in the short term

More likely was through Great Heywood to Stone where it could easily have been road or tramway carried to Royal Ordnance Factory Cold Meece (Swynnerton area) though there were many small ROFs and Ministry Of Supply factories dotted around Staffordshire. Gt Heywood is close to Hixon Airfield too which was a Operational Conversion Unit and launched aircraft on bombing training runs so supplies may have been for there (or just empty cases for store to be filled later). By 1942 there were 60+ explosives factories in the country, some set up by private companies for the benefit of the Crown e.g. Elstow (Filling Factory) was built by the Lyons Tea Company.

Three very helpful chaps at Soulbury today. Very warm they looked too...

Pro Cast Nottingham also sell them... They're alright but not wood!!!

Kris, YOU have stated you don't have the funds or capabilities to conform with the CRT requirements, no one else. When others bring it up you shout them down. Do you have a home mooring? Is the boat on that home mooring? If the answer to either is no then you have contravened the t&c of your licence which is why CRT are getting in touch. If you can or will not comply, they may follow process to remove your boat. I can't see where confusion lies here. Many posters have pointed out the regs, still more have offered advice, some even assistance. The only conclusion I can reach is that there is one unreasonable party in this situation and it is not CRT. I genuinely hope you can restore the boat but you are mistaken if I have any truck with a situation that appears to be entirely of your own making.

If you end up cutting out the floor completely (and you circular saw at depth will work well, I've used that method - but set it 19mm not 20mm), you may be foiled by the wall panels being attached to the floor at the edges by battening. I can see where you're going (I've done similar) but you may be as well following the suggestions to reuse the floor you have as you have a lot of work ahead

http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/leisure-batteries/ This lot are quite well thought of in the motor, RV and semi traction role (golf carts etc) circles. I used them for my Land Cruiser pair about 6 years ago and I'm still impressed. They have lots of option at quite reasonable prices and 48hr delivery

May be you and I don't but many will to live in that area and I got the impression it was for the mooring as a whole, not just one spot

Probably a bargain in real terms... may be overheads though

Manual change-over switch to separate front and rear inlets as ithe is fairly easy and cheap (and replicates the inverter/inlet switch that stops the inverter making the inlet live). The 32A idea was as I suggested at the start, a belt and braces future proofing idea. Thanks for all the info... I may look into 4mm csa or simply not bother and stick to 16A

Sam, currently moored nose in and planning an inlet both ends. The cabin end option is troubling me as to how to get it to look right. Especially as I'd like that to be 32A too.

Correct Bottle... It's about 17m all told, probably less but there are turns etc to add in.

Sorry, I didn't make that clear... This is the feed (through RCB within the distance reqd) to the fuse and distribution board from the front appliance inlet. There rings or spurs are after that and will be 2.5mm the cable doesn't run through insulation or conduit/trunking

I'm looking to put twin 2.5mm three core 230v a down the length of the boat (future proofing for 32A supply) rather than getting the next cable size up (which seems to be 3 x 6mm csa). If someone could suggest a reasonably priced source for the larger cable then I may think about re-routing it but the price and radii required are my reasons for thinking parallel. Thanks so far

Hopefully a quick question... To get a sufficient cross section and therefore current handling, is it acceptable to run parallel cables? I understand that there may be differences in the cables and therefore slightly unequal resistivity but it offers a more flexible solution for a tight space. Thanks