Engine cooling system

[petalponk]

So we went to the IWA only about 40 miles all round, on the way back the water disappeared out of the water box (i will try to explain later) and the engine temperature went up to 100 degrees, we put some water in and the engine temp went back down to its normal 70 degrees.

 

So when we stopped i investigated, i could hear a steady drip drip. One of the jubilee clips had been sheared through by a metal bit of the cooling system (which i am presuming should be attached to the engine block but isn't). I managed to bodge a repair for this using a cable tie. Now that was water tight but i could still hear dripping, i noticed one pipe was cracked and leaking and another one (which was up tight against the engine block) is all crumbling.

 

The whole system seems to be rotten, I will try and take some pics and post them here as it's very difficult to explain it!

[petalponk]

This is the water box

 

This is the metal bit of the coolant system which is not attached to anything

 

This is the pipe that goes from the water box and is cracked and leaking

 

This is the rest of it

 

 

Any advice would be appreciated, also whats the best way of getting all the rusty coolant water out of the bottom of the boat?

Edited August 6, 2011 by petalponk

[Smelly]

Those pipes are consumable and I think you could call those consumed. Best to rip em all out; most boatyards or chandlers should be able to sell you the replacement pipe. Won't take long either.

 

It's probably done you a favour... It looks like it needed a coolant change; make sure and put some antifreeze in when you replace it; sorry if this is an egg sucking exercise but it's an anticorrosive agent as well and that tank looks pretty corroded to me; just think of all that rusty water in your engine

[Ex- Member]

Those pipes are consumable and I think you could call those consumed. Best to rip em all out; most boatyards or chandlers should be able to sell you the replacement pipe. Won't take long either.

 

It's probably done you a favour... It looks like it needed a coolant change; make sure and put some antifreeze in when you replace it; sorry if this is an egg sucking exercise but it's an anticorrosive agent as well and that tank looks pretty corroded to me; just think of all that rusty water in your engine

 

Agreed

 

In addition all those 90 degree bends can be done away with, try to use full lengths of correct size rubber hose where ever possible, less joints lass chance of leaks. Support hoses regularly remember they get heavy when full of water/antifreeze. There is a location I notice where you will need a reducing T (picture 3) Try to do away with all that (what I'm assuming is steel pipe) and obtain the correct reducing T in appropriate plastic or metal. The system you have seems over elaborate IMO with so many un-necessary joints. Use only good quality jubilee clips also or hose clamps.

 

That tank needs a serious clean out otherwise you're going to get all sorts of crap in your water system possibly causing blockages. I would suggest your system needs a good flush through also, there are cleaner additives you can purchase for this. All the pipe I would suggest needs replacing, it all looks around the same age and will have all deteriorated to the same degree.

 

Good luck it's quite a job, but done well will last you years.

 

 

 

[Smelly]

I can't see where the skin tank's connected.to the engine. What's that heat exchanger doing?

[RLWP]

I can't see where the skin tank's connected.to the engine. What's that heat exchanger doing?

 

I would think the heat exchanger is for the gearbox

 

Richard

[Ex- Member]

I can't see where the skin tank's connected.to the engine. What's that heat exchanger doing?

 

I wondered that too, can't make it our from the photo's, without being rude, it's all a bit Heath Robinson on a bad day IMO and needs a complete makeover.

 

 

 

[Eeyore]

without being rude, it's all a bit Heath Robinson on a bad day IMO and needs a complete makeover.

Looks like a Ford XLD engine, and as far as the ones I've seen goes, Heath Robinson is the order of the day!

Its one of those engines that simply doesn't do tidy. (Cue photos of tidy XLD instalations - which would be helpful to the OP)

Agree that the instalation should be designed with the minimum of joints and hose clips where ever possible.

Steve

Edited August 6, 2011 by Eeyore

[bizzard]

When all thats done and the systems flushed out,i recommend refilling with distilled or rain water,with your antifreeze,not tap water.This will keep rust and corrosion to a minimum in the future.This can be said for water central heating too,and vehicles.Don't forget to bleed the skin tank,air is often stubborn to come out of there.should be a plug on top. bizzard

[Ex- Member]

When all thats done and the systems flushed out,i recommend refilling with distilled or rain water,with your antifreeze,not tap water.This will keep rust and corrosion to a minimum in the future.This can be said for water central heating too,and vehicles.Don't forget to bleed the skin tank,air is often stubborn to come out of there.should be a plug on top. bizzard

 

 

 

Hi bizzard

 

Never knew that, why is that so?

 

 

[bizzard]

Hi bizzard

 

Never knew that, why is that so?

Just pure water with no chlorine,lime ect.Especially if your in a hard water district.I've always done it in all my vehicles over the years and never had any rust or corrosion to speak of.Though i'm looking for distilled air now,my boat engines an air cooled Lister. bizzard

[Smelly]

I would think the heat exchanger is for the gearbox

 

Richard

 

That was my first thought but where it's free floating like that I wondered whether it might be an artefact from a raw water cooled system, hence the question.

[ditchcrawler]

When all thats done and the systems flushed out,i recommend refilling with distilled or rain water,with your antifreeze,not tap water.This will keep rust and corrosion to a minimum in the future.This can be said for water central heating too,and vehicles.Don't forget to bleed the skin tank,air is often stubborn to come out of there.should be a plug on top. bizzard

We use to use distilled water in the cooling systems of our engines Offshore

[petalponk]

Thanks for all the replies, I thought it looked overly complicated, but knowing not much about engines wasn't sure.

 

I don't even know what a heat exchanger is, i know what the skin tank is though So basically replace everything and try to simplify it, there is a bleed point on the skin tank.

 

What i also wondered - In cars they have an expansion tank, could i replace the "water box" with one of them? I just wondered because recently i had the pram hood down and the water box filled up with rain.... that can't be good.

Edited August 6, 2011 by petalponk

[bizzard]

Thanks for all the replies, I thought it looked overly complicated, but knowing not much about engines wasn't sure.

 

I don't even know what a heat exchanger is, i know what the skin tank is though So basically replace everything and try to simplify it, there is a bleed point on the skin tank.

 

What i also wondered - In cars they have an expansion tank, could i replace the "water box" with one of them? I just wondered because recently i had the pram hood down and the water box filled up with rain.... that can't be good.

[/quote

Providing the water box as you call it is at the highest point of the cooling system,keep it half full to allow for the water expanding when hot.Make a lid to stop rain water filling it up. bizzard.

[WotEver]

Those pipes are consumable and I think you could call those consumed.

Succinct and made me smile

 

Tony

[Smelly]

Succinct and made me smile

 

Tony

 

Why thank you sir!