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Oil filter wrench


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My oil and fuel filters are the spin-off cartridge type. I need to buy a new wrench for when I change them. My first one was like a pair of pliers, which usually eneded up by damaging the old filter and letting oil drip everywhere. My existing one is a cheap Halfords one with a chain (which of course doesn't grip) and a handle with blunt teeth which don't grip very much either. Now that the handle is falling apart and the teeth are almost smooth, I am sure there must be something better.

 

What is the best type to get? I know you can get jam-pot lid removers which use a friction band all round the jam-jar, is something like that recommended, or what?

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My oil and fuel filters are the spin-off cartridge type. I need to buy a new wrench for when I change them. My first one was like a pair of pliers, which usually eneded up by damaging the old filter and letting oil drip everywhere. My existing one is a cheap Halfords one with a chain (which of course doesn't grip) and a handle with blunt teeth which don't grip very much either. Now that the handle is falling apart and the teeth are almost smooth, I am sure there must be something better.

 

What is the best type to get? I know you can get jam-pot lid removers which use a friction band all round the jam-jar, is something like that recommended, or what?

 

My two (one on the boat and one at home ) are both chain type but have an end that a half inch socket drive fits and they work fine.

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This (£2) type works great on main engine filters if you have overtightened them

 

filter-wrench.jpg

 

For the tiny generator filters a small chain wrench, as I find you can't tighten enough by hand.

Edited by richardhula
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My oil and fuel filters are the spin-off cartridge type. I need to buy a new wrench for when I change them. My first one was like a pair of pliers, which usually eneded up by damaging the old filter and letting oil drip everywhere. My existing one is a cheap Halfords one with a chain (which of course doesn't grip) and a handle with blunt teeth which don't grip very much either. Now that the handle is falling apart and the teeth are almost smooth, I am sure there must be something better.

 

What is the best type to get? I know you can get jam-pot lid removers which use a friction band all round the jam-jar, is something like that recommended, or what?

 

 

These are the best - but you have buy the right size one for your filter ---- oil filter socket

Halfords and some car spares carry them

 

Alex

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I like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universal-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000UD0CTQ

 

However,I keep one on the boat permanently which consists of a leather trouser belt, and a piece of round steel tube with a slot cut in it,and a hole in whcih to insert a tommy bar. Cost nowt and has never let me down in several years, though keeping my trousers up is a problem.

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I always overtighten my filters! :P

 

I find the chain wrenches crush the filter while the strap ones tend to slip. I often end up having to knock a screwdriver right through to act as a lever handle. (Avoid putting it through the middle of the filter!) To be fair it's not only me that overtightens them as I'm sometimes just the one taking them off and replacing them.

 

I once changed an oil filter on a VW Lupo and it had a 26mm "nut" embossed into the dome end of the filter which I just put a socket on. It was the first time I'd seen this and I couldn't help thinking "Why on earth aren't all filters made like this?" So much easier than using oily hands or strap wrenches.

Edited by blackrose
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These are the best - but you have buy the right size one for your filter ---- oil filter socket

Halfords and some car spares carry them

 

Alex

 

Another vote on these for me - I have several sizes which work with my motorbikes (if anybody has ever tried to change the oil filter which is recessed into the bottom of a BMW Boxer engine, you'll now why!), but can't find them in the right size for my boat. For my oil filter I use a rubber boa, which works perfectly well, but the diesel filter is a different matter, I've yet to find anything which works - the filter is hard against the bulkhead - so I've yet to change it :help:

 

WORK

 

LOL!

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Thanks for all the suggestions. I expect I am over-tightening them (most people do) and the space around the fuel filter is a bit restricted, so now I at least have a good range of options to think about.

 

It's an interesting point about oil filter tightness - the manual for my engine (Isuzu) says to tighten by hand only which is what I have always done for these types of filters on cars, however the box the genuine filter came in says to tighten with a wrench. I ignored the latter as the type of filter wrench I have (chain) can damage the filter as it tightens around it, not a problem when you are removing it but it would be if fitting it.

 

No leaks so far.

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I always only tighten them by hand, and not that much either, but they can sometimes be really hard to undo even with the chain wrench.

 

I always found the chain type crushed the filter casing, the best one I have found I got from my Renault garage as the space to remove the oil filter on my Megane is very restricted. It`s like a big Jubilee clip with a rough inside surface & is tightened & slackened with a threaded handle similar to a G clamp.Tighten the handle & it`s used as a lever to turn tool & filter. IIRC it cost about 9 Euro`s

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I have changed filters on cars and boat...all my adult life....and can't think I've had to fight to remove it like you guys are ?

 

I always smear the rubber seal with grease...tighten it until the seal contacts...and then turn no more than quarter turn by hand.

Once the seal compresses slightly..it won't leak...and it certainly won't unscrew.

I have often been able to heave enough...to remove it by hand with no tools...although not all the time.

 

Maybe..you should rethink your tightening ?

 

bob

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I always only tighten them by hand, and not that much either, but they can sometimes be really hard to undo even with the chain wrench.

 

The oil filter on Barrus engines is fitted low down and tight against the engine beds - its the worst installation I have come across and I have told Barrus many times.

 

They do supply the strap one but its almost useless, if they supplied the socket instead it would be a doddle.

 

Alex

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<snip>

 

I often end up having to knock a screwdriver right through to act as a lever handle. (Avoid putting it through the middle of the filter!)

 

<snip>

 

Be wary of doing this. There have been occurrences of bits of paper from pierced oil filters finding their way into the engine and blocking the oilways

 

Richard

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I have changed filters on cars and boat...all my adult life....and can't think I've had to fight to remove it like you guys are ?

 

I always smear the rubber seal with grease...tighten it until the seal contacts...and then turn no more than quarter turn by hand.

Once the seal compresses slightly..it won't leak...and it certainly won't unscrew.

I have often been able to heave enough...to remove it by hand with no tools...although not all the time.

 

Maybe..you should rethink your tightening ?

 

bob

 

It's often an access issue though that prevents you getting a good 'purchase' with your grip.

 

not a boat but a car Jan's Mk2.5 Mx-5 was a pig to get the cartridge oil filter off even with any sort of wrench - by hand would just be impossible.

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